The Caveat Emptyer Wine List

Gran Viu Seleccion

2011-04-30T23:57:00.001-05:00

Viñedos y Bodegas Pablo
Gran Viu
Selección
Grenache, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan (or maybe Syrah?)
Cariñena DO
Almonacid de la Sierra, Zaragoza, Spain
2002
14.5%
$24.99 -- Spec's Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Obscure ruby
Nose: Stewed fruit, tar, mushrooms, cherry smoke
Body: Full
Front: Creamy roasted plum
Middle: Black pepper, black cherry
Back: Coffee grounds, rocks, dusty tannins
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork

This wine goes to show what Spain can do in the southern Rhone style, bigtime. It's got length, depth, and sweetness, plus all of the herby, leathery stuff that ageable Spanish wines are known for. This was phenomenal tonight with a chicken-in-píperade purée and spinach and mushroom quiche. It might be hard to find this wine, but it's a well-priced example of what this region and producer can do, and much worth trying!

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Kathy

Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Blanc

2011-04-30T23:23:00.002-05:00

Tablas Creek Vineyard
Patelin de Tablas Blanc
Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne
Paso Robles, California, U.S.A.
2010
13.5%
$19.99 -- Tablas Creek Vineyard, CA

Color: Light gold, almost a hint of peach?
Nose: Charred flowers, honey, pear rind
Body: Light
Front: Peach, honey
Middle: Creamy sage, orange
Back: A hint of salted almonds
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork

The nose on this wine is reminiscent of the Vin Soave I just reviewed, with a little more orangey action. The Tablas Creek folks, whose wines I generally love, have started making wines with bought fruit, not just their own; the "Patelin" series is the name for such wines, and this is the first release. 16% of the fruit for this wine is from Tablas Creek's land.

It's a charming, light wine, with persistence on the palate and a summery lift to it--very drinkable. This will go well with food, especially seafood. It doesn't have the strong orangey, gassy quality that some southern Rhone whites have, but it's not a pushover, either.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Pagos del Moncayo Garnacha

2011-04-29T21:39:00.002-05:00

Pagos del Moncayo
Garnacha
Grenache
Campo de Borja DO
Spain
2007
14.5%
$17.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Fishmarket, blueberry, firecracker, cream, cherry
Body: Medium to full
Front: Creamy cherry
Middle: Orange peel, plum, licorice
Back: Coffee grounds, rocks, dusty tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

The "Tinto Joven" made by this label gave me about the worst hangover I've had in a long time. Why, then, did I pick up a bottle of their Grenache?

Well, for one thing, I love Grenache; for another, the Tinto Joven was quite vibrant and fascinating. This one is not quite as multilayered as that one was. But it's big, yet excellently stocked with both fruit and secondary, herby flavors. While I suspect the alcohol level is actually higher than the label confesses, it's better with food, as the end of it kind of waters out: I'm drinking it with an open jar of pickles, as it happens.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Kathy

Freemark Abbey Merlot

2011-04-28T23:24:00.005-05:00

Freemark Abbey
Merlot
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, U.S.A.
2007
14.5%
$19.98 at Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Sour cherry, sage, a hint of orange peel
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry
Middle: Cassis, salt, coffee
Back: Hint of pepper, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I am a fan of Freemark Abbey wines, which I think are underrated. To the company's credit, they've priced their wines realistically, and this is a particularly good bargain (though I did get it on sale).

This is a Merlot, not a Cab, to be sure: it doesn't have the beefy body, but the herby aromatics are pronounced and interesting. The fruit is from Rutherford, and you can tell by the haunting, microfine tannins. My guess is that in two years this wine will be even more interesting on the palate than it is now.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Inama Soave Classico

2011-04-28T23:06:00.003-05:00

Azienda Agricola Inama
Vin Soave
Garganega
Soave Classico DOC
Verona, Veneto, Italy
2009
12%
$11.99 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: Charred wood, honey, pear rind
Body: Light
Front: Honey
Middle: Sea air, honeysuckle
Back: A hint of hazelnut
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Secretly, inside my overarching Washington wine tasting mission, the Italian white experimentation continues.

Ok, it's not secret, 'cause there you are reading this, but look: Pinot Grigio, perhaps the best known Italian white wine, mostly sucks. Largely, it tastes like acrylic with lime juice, no salt on the rim. Whereas by contrast the Greco di Tufo and Falanghina I've tasted lately--wines I'd never heard of before last year--have changed my life forever.

Now this wine didn't do that, but it wasn't bad. This bottle's a little disjointed and watery on the midpalate. But it's ruthlessly refreshing, and way, way better than the Soave I associate with my childhood. That's right, childhood, America; that is how we rolled in the backcountry in the early 80s, with the Soave Bolla.

If you like a delicate but not too complex wine, this will delight you; pair it with salty or shellfishy items, sweet nuts, or lemon vinaigrette-containing things.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Mendelson Pinot Noir

2011-04-24T21:28:00.002-05:00

Mendelson Wines
Pinot Noir
Sleepy Hollow Vineyard
Santa Lucia Highlands
Napa, California, U.S.A.
2007
14.5%
$34.29 [$48.99] -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Dark brick
Nose: Stewed plum, wet gravel, sour sage cigarettes, heat
Body: Full
Front: Fruit soup, orange
Middle: Plum licorice, espresso grounds
Back: Thyme, a little heat, burned popcorn
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I'm going to go buy another bottle of this wine, because it has a combination of characteristics that I find absolutely enchanting. The heat on the nose and in the glass is a little unfortunate, especially five years out, but it's not overwhelming. Oddly, there aren't many reviews of this wine, perhaps because the maker is best known for dessert wines. Then again, maybe he just pissed everybody off.

Either way, here's the thing: this tastes almost exactly like two other high-tone Pinots I've had, that had a little age on 'em. Stewed fruit, then some earthy or beefy or smoky secondary flavors, and a burned popcorn type of ending. And the flavor profile didn't evolve in any of these cases either: an hour later, they basically tasted the same as after 15 minutes. Two hours, same deal: still delicious, but still the same flavors in the same structure.

This puts me in a quandary. One of the things I love about wine as opposed to, say, Dr. PepperTM, is that it sometimes evolves as it opens. A single wine can be delicious in five or twelve different ways over the course of a few hours. Then again, I love Dr. PepperTM! And this tastes a lot like it.

So I'm going to get another bottle, as I said. And I'm going to be flexible about what I imagine the unfolding of a wine that I enjoy might be like. At $35, I think this is an absolute steal in Pinot, unless you hate sour sage cigarettes.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Michael

Andrew Will Cabernet Franc

2011-04-23T21:40:00.003-05:00

Andrew Will Cellars
Cabernet Franc
Columbia Valley
Vashon, Washington, U.S.A.
2009
14.2%
$25.99 at Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Ass coffee, fresh berries and cream, roasted orange, faint nutmeg
Body: Medium to full
Front: Red cassis, cherry
Middle: Cherry-flavored coffee, with a touch of cream
Back: Currant tea, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Andrew Will makes some phenomenal wine. But it's hard times, and now they're making a sort of second-label wine. Mind you, it's $30 a bottle, so perhaps the concept didn't quite sink in. The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, which is the initial release of the value series, is a total Pottery Barn Wine. But this one is different.

Now, you could ask, If you're going to try to make a more popular wine, with a wider reach, why make a Cabernet Franc? Americans don't know what Cabernet Franc is any more than they know what ass coffee is, even though both are in a lot of reds they drink. But the balance of bright, tart fruit with coffee-cream goodness in this bottle will erase such questions. If there was ever a Cab Franc that might convert average wine buyers, this is it. I'm guessing, however, that the black label Andrew Will series is going to rotate varietals, and that's all good as far as I'm concerned. Much though I want this house to succeed, I don't want too many people getting into these wines.

This lacks the power of their more senior wines--has a shorter finish and less body. But with any kind of food, it's great; it opens fast, and if this were $50 at a restaurant, I'd order it and be delighted. And second rank though it might be, this will age a bit, without question: the tannins are soft and polite, but they are insistent, balancing the acid of the fruit, and promising some deeper harmony in a few years.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Melville Estate Chardonnay

2011-04-23T19:35:00.003-05:00

Melville Winery
Chardonnay
Santa Rita Hills
Lompoc, California, USA
2007
14.9%
$22.39 -- Bee Cave, Austin, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: Cedar, salt, clementine-lime
Body: Full
Front: Salt, Meyer lemon
Middle: Honey and cream, lime
Back: Oak, white pepper
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I'm increasingly a fan of Sta. Rita Hills wines. This one is delightful, though without the 20% off sale, I'm not sure if I'd go for it again. I had the same experience with one of Melville's Pinot Noirs awhile back.

This deserves a brief but perhaps important digression. There's a threshold of cost and interestingness that I want to give a name to, because I think it actually influences the drinking experience (assuming you paid for the wine--if you didn't, this isn't a factor, except for you misers out there). If the wine is expensive and tastes fantastic, you don't shy away from buying another bottle. If it's cheap and tastes really good to you, maybe you buy a case, or make it a regular. But if it's really good, yet not quite priced right, you say, I'll take my $23 to a new wine, hoping to find one that's fantastic at that price.

I always have this same feeling at Pottery Barn. That rattan side-table is fantastic! But it's $300. Target has a rattan side-table that's really good, and it's $45. Restoration hardware has one with a secret compartment, that's much sturdier, for $400. Whatever happens next, it's not going to happen at Pottery Barn. Thenceforth, wines that provoke this feeling I will call "Pottery Barn Wines." I look forward to ireful comments from either Pottery Barn execs or Soccer Moms and Dads who love their Pottery Barn for Kids wines.

That said, this wine is really good! It's tasty with the appetizers of chorizo, mustard, cornichon, and triple-creme cheese I'm having; and it brings a sea-side reminiscence with its mineraliness, which suggests it would be phenomenal with seafood.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

P.S.: I got one of my rattan wine-storage chests from Pottery Barn, and it's fantastic! It was on sale, 25% off.

When heavily medicated for allergies...

2011-04-17T20:58:00.004-05:00

...IT'S NO USE. I can't really taste anything. It's like there's a hole in my palate; things that are strongly acidic, spicy, or salty come through, but that's all. Mouthfeel is all I really have left--an inordinate sensitivity to temperature and texture.

So it seems like a good moment to make tiny comments on two scientific essays that involve the wine world. They come from the seemingly antipodal realms of linguistics and biology. I read academic essays all the time, so perhaps this is one small way to contribute to the gargantuan conversation online about wine.

I've mentioned elsewhere the results of the first paper, "The Taste of Carbonation," by Chandrashekar, et al (Science 326, 16 Oct 2009), sent to me by a faithful, overeducated reader. Carbonation in beverages tastes sour, they conclude, after a battery of quite convincing tests, checking to see if it tasted more salty, more sweet, and so on. There are stories about folks in China, a rapidly expanding wine market, putting Coke or Sprite into wine; this study suggests that they're not just making it sweeter, but rather, something more complex might be going on. And recall that the Greeks mixed water and wine, before ye judge the Chinese!

The second paper, Michael Silverstein's "Old Wine, New Ethnographic Lexicography" (Annual Review of Anthropology 35, 2006, 481-96), was suggested by an equally overeducated friend who ought to be reading this blog, if he knows what's good for him. This article was less useful. Coining the term oinoglossia, meaning "wine talk," the article discusses how learning the insider lingo of the wine world helps you signal yourself as being part of the wine-interested community. It uses wine talk as an example of how linguistic anthropologists need to understand how language divides up groups in culture.

But Silverstein insists that have to understand both the words people use and the grammar in which they're used--even what I would call a cultural grammar, of using certain constructions or words in certain situations where you know you're being judged in some way, or want to win someone over and convince them you're in the "in" crowd. You don't just use certain words when you're trying to convince your boss you know what you're talking about--you talk in a certain way.

This is good, so far as it goes, but I didn't learn anything at all about the wine world from this article. It doesn't actually cite any examples! It's like linguistic anthropology without any actual drinking human beings.

In short: if I were out drinking some bubbly, which is about the only thing I can taste right now, I'd probably rather do it with Jayaram Chandrashekar, et al (there are seven authors on the paper, so you'd need a couple bottles at least) than Silverstein. But the more the merrier!

Hedges Red Mountain

2011-04-15T22:45:00.003-05:00

Hedges Family Estate
Red Mountain
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc
Benton City, Washington, U.S.A.
2007
13.6%
$19.84 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Deep strawberry jam
Nose: Cherry, sage, hint of orange, vanilla
Body: Medium
Front: Tart cherries
Middle: Caramelly cedar
Back: Spice, chocolate
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It's time to figure out which Washington reds I like. This one is great for the money. It's phenomenal with a pepper steak, not bad with a romaine-and-egg salad. It doesn't seem to evolve much as it opens--the tannins soften considerably, suggesting the wisdom of a year or two of patience (I'm going to get a couple of bottles to lay down). But the cherry-and-oak driven profile stays true for hours.

I reckon some folks will say this is over-oaked, but I'm not sure, as the fruit and acid still come through; others might think it one-dimensional, but that doesn't tally for me either, because of the herby dimensions. Whoever made this wine seems to me to be wondering, How can I make a Merlot-based blend that tastes like serious Bordeaux, yet also tastes like the Pacific Northwest? (If I learned that they fudged down a half-point on the alcohol level, however, I'd not be surprised.)

I think that it's nicely balanced, and that with a little time--or the right pairing--it'll be more interesting than many wines at this price. (My latest thing is to try all wines with pickles: this one tastes like a McDonald's cheeseburger when paired with pickles, and that is just awesome.)

Who likes it: Mignon
Who hates it: Kathy

Terredora Dipaolo Falanghina

2011-04-15T21:20:00.020-05:00

Terredora Dipaolo Viticoltori
Falaghina
Irpinia DOC
Montefesco, Campagnia, Italy
2008
13%
$10.49 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: A fire in the apple-flavored graham cracker factory
Body: Medium to full
Front: Meyer lemon
Middle: Apple-flavored tobacco
Back: Cedar, thyme
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Fake cork

A couple of days ago I lamented the passing of a 2007 Falanghina. Remembering that there was some more of this, one of my absolute favorite Italian whites, around, I reckoned I'd better move it up on the ol' Asmodeus food chain.

I'm glad I did: not only is it damn tasty, but it's palpably right on the edge of oblivion. The maderization is coming through (how could it be, since this isn't aged in oak?), flattening out the acid and the focused apple (I've had an 09 of this wine, and it's applerific); but it's still delightful, full, complex, and balanced. To folks who like fruity American whites, the nose on this will be almost alienating, reminiscent of a red wine.

Indeed, I'd expect Americans to divide seriously on whether or not they like this wine, because it doesn't play ball the way they're used to. But with food--even spicy food; I'm having it with cherry peppers, a spicy cheese (Oregonzola!), and paprika-laden chorizo--it's fantastic.

Just don't wait too long before you drink it!

Who likes it: Kathy
Who hates it: Mignon

Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

2011-04-14T00:00:00.003-05:00

Siduri Wines
Santa Lucia Highlands
Pinot Noir
Central Coast
Santa Rosa, California, U.S.A.
2008
14.1%
$29.98 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Strawberry jam, cherry, a little herb
Body: Medium
Front: Strawberry-cherry cola
Middle: Raspberry, banana
Back: A little sage, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This is a tasty, food-friendly, almost too-easy drinking wine. It's rich, but not terrifically complex or deep or long on the palate. It was splendid paired with roasted chicken and a little avocado and tomato salad. Again, perhaps a tad overpriced for what you get, as is often the case with Pinot--I might try a circa-$20 Central Otago wine before this one, in the future. I don't think this one is made to age particularly long, given the tannin structure, but it wouldn't hurt to wait another year, I reckon, before drinking this one.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Michael

Lacrimus Rioja

2011-04-13T19:56:00.000-05:00

Valsanzo (Bodegas Sendero Royal?)

Lacrimus

Crianza

Tempranillo, Graciano
Rioja DOCa
Rincon de Soto, La Rioja, Spain
2008
13.5%
$13.89 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark ruby

Nose: Cherry, blackberry bramble, orange grove

Body: Medium to full
Front: Cherry

Middle: Leather, spice, blackberry

Back: Licorice, gas

Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

A tasty Rioja, well worth the money. It'll age, I reckon, too. Good with food (pizza, in this case) and a bit brooding. It's a big wine, and I suppose one might say it's a "modern" style, but it's still plenty Spanish--the dark and herby aspects of it are to be reckoned. Hmm. Rosemaried lamb or potatoes would be awesome with this, come to think of it.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

Lange Reserve Pinot Noir

2011-04-13T19:00:00.002-05:00

Lange Winery

Pinot Noir

Reserve
Willamette Valley
Dundee, Oregon, U.S.A.
2008
13.5%
$30.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium reddish purple
Nose: Cherry candy, a hint of earth and smoke, a spritz of bug spray

Body: Medium
Front: Cherry

Middle: A hint of cassis, cinnamon, spiciness

Back: Cherry again, creamy this time

Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

This is a tremendously elegant wine--so elegant that I think I didn't really notice much flavor in the tail end of it. It's smooth and balanced, and perhaps in a year or two might become more intense. But at the moment, this is exactly the sort of bottle that has me scratching my head at Pinot Noir prices. For my palate, it's not as interesting as the Innocent Bystander, yet costs twice as much. Had I bought two bottles of this (as I did with the Pessagno), I'd put the other in the closet and wait for a couple of years before opening it. I'm not sure time does heal all things, but I reckon in this case it can't hurt.

After a long hiatus thanks to work, Asmodeus is BACK. I'd have dropped four wines on you today instead of three, if only the Falanghina hadn't been maderized. Believe it: four years is too long for Falanghina.

Who likes it: Mignon
Who hates it: Steve

Margerum M5

2011-03-09T22:18:00.005-06:00

Margerum Wine Company
M5
Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Counoise, Cinsault
Santa Barbara County
Los Olivos, California, U.S.A.
2008
14.1%
$19.94 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium reddish purple
Nose: Cherry candy, orange, green apple, a hint of paprika

Body: Medium
Front: Cherry, plum, orange peel

Middle: Watermelon Jolly RancherTM

Back: Caramel espresso, soft tannins

Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

Finally, I think, I'm starting to see the core differences between French and California Rhone-style blends. The brightness of the mid-palate fruit in this wine--whose structure and flavors are otherwise very similar to a CDP--is distinctive. The tannins aren't as cultured as the CDP, either, but they're not the brutish ones of Napa Valley.

I've had earlier vintages of this wine and also liked them; it's much better with some decanting, as the fruit comes out more. Crucially, this wine is fantastic with a range of foods. I paired this with a romaine salad with lemon vinaigrette and tomatoes (with which the Jolly Rancher flavor leaped out of the wine), grilled boudin (with which the cherry and smoky side of the wine showed beautifully), sea salt pita chips (with which it's equally enchanting but I can't figure out why exactly), and triple creme cheese, with which some slight green notes came out, delightfully. I'm going to go buy six more bottles of this.

(Tonight I'm alternating sips of this with tastes of day 2 of Soos Creek's Sundance Merlot, which is fantastic, but which I won't review here because I want it all.)

A note on the notable, and to me suspect, glass ceiling of 90 points on Cellartracker for this wine: I fear that its questionable longevity is making folks rate it lower than their taste experience justifies, especially if they're drinking it with food. Cellartracker folks--knock me down if I'm wrong!

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Kathy

Vineyard Block Estate Block 939 Cabernet

2011-03-07T22:56:00.001-06:00

Vineyard Block Estate
Block 939
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Calistoga, California, U.S.A.
2008
14.2%
$19.94 -- Spec's Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Deep reddish purple
Nose: Plums, stewed black cherry, orange, a little heat
Body: Full
Front: Plum, vanilla
Middle: Cherry, coffee, orange rind
Back: Chocolate, soft tannins
Burns clean?: No -- almost immediate headache after glass 2.
Cap: Recycled cork

This is pretty good for negociant wine. It's full on the palate, but not too cloying; great with grilled rack of lamb and almost as good with a tomato-basil soup. There's a lot of oak, so if you like that, you will be thrilled--there's not much spice or weird earthy flavor, which I prefer, but it's a hedonistic wine at a slightly less-than-indulgent price.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Kathy

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo

2011-03-07T22:41:00.001-06:00

Feudi di San Gregorio
Greco di Tufo
Campagna
Serpico, Avellino, Italy
2008
13%
$15.49 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Grass, pear, honey
Body: Medium to full
Front: Lemony pear
Middle: Apple, banana
Back: White pepper, honey
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Wow. This is a phenomenal wine, to my taste. Acid up front, interesting fruit and secondary flavors battling it out in the middle, and a long, long finish with minerals and honeysuckle. This is on the old side for Greco, at three years, but it's still seductive, like a good conversation. There may be a lot more of these appearing on the ol' Caveat Emptyer. It went well with pre-dinner foods, but I think would be fantastic with many, many things, especially seafood.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Kinton Syrah

2011-02-25T23:10:00.002-06:00

Kinton Vineyards
Syrah
Santa Barbara County
Sta. Maria, California, U.S.A.
2004
14.3%
$13.39 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Beautiful, dark ruby
Nose: Blueberry, petrol, cherry,
Body: Medium to full
Front: Cherry, lime
Middle: Orange peel, plum, apple
Back: Coffee grounds, firm tannins
Burns clean?: Mostly
Cap: Cork

This has much of the style of Australian syrahs: big, bold, fruity, but dark and multilayered notwithstanding. I like this style, especially on a cold night and with old-school cooking. Some might find it too oaky, but it's getting reasonably old at this point, and I found the balance of fruit, acid, and secondary flavors pretty delightful. It's neither the smoothest nor the biggest Syrah out there; in the midpalate it backs off, a little, but I like the acidic fruit that you can taste when it does, so it doesn't bother me much, and the alcohol is reasonably under control.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Michael

On the Nature of Wine Blogs

2011-02-25T22:44:00.003-06:00

FAITHFUL READERS, HAVE PATIENCE with me. Normally on a Friday night I'd be drinking wine and listening to Wilco and relaxing in front of a fire or within a pool. Instead I'm doing all of those things while composing a minor reflection spurred by a post at one of the best wine blogs out there, Vinography:

http://www.vinography.com/archives/2011/02/why_trust_a_wine_blogger.html

The gist of it is that there was a survey conducted asking winos what source they trust for wine information, concluding that wine blogs weren't really trusted. And more importantly, Vinography reflects thoughtfully on the circumstances of such surveying (including the fact that the surveyors spun their press release so that bloggers would react to, and thus propagate it) and offers data from his own site's survey and access statistics.

What Vinography doesn't do with this post is reflect on the relationship between bloggers and the wine industry--the elephant in the room when we talk about authority and consumer trust. The blogosphere's reputation as a third party has changed over the last few years, and will continue to change. It used to be that blogs were pretty radical and DIY, and now they're often co-opted (and we always suspect them of being so first, and look for clues of genuineness, a moving target). Look at how Gary Vaynerchuk massages his commercial interests in his video blog--it's an evolving, difficult issue, because the wine market changes, even as the media marketplace morphs at the same time.

On the one hand, if you buy a lot of wine over the $15 mark, you probably consult more than one source when buying something you've never tasted. So an industry insider--that is, one who has any kind of commercial stake in any part of the wine creation-and-circulation chain, including journalists and software designers--is never your only potential source.

On the other hand, no source or combination of sources is reliable. It's not the marketplace for reviews or wine itself that matters, but the palate and its aggregate shiftiness. Get Vaynerchuk, Parker, Galloni, and Asher together and get 'em drunk, and have them all agree, in that freewheeling ecstatic state, on five wines that they think are phenomenal. I'll bet you'll find at least one of those bottles pretty mundane, if not icky. I will never forget the disgusted look on the face of one of my guests a couple of years ago when I served her a glass of 2003 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel--not because I regret a faux pas, but because of how immediately I thought, menos burros, mas olotes.

But we can't do without wine writing and reporting. (Ranking we can do without.) Sure, we don't buy as much mail-order wine as we used to, and so the necessity to write about wines may be coming from other sources--perhaps, the explosion of an international trade market (in the U.S. anyway; the wine selections in Ireland, for example, are at the moment comparatively narrow); the diversification of the wine-drinking demographic; or the flood of Internet-vectored information about wines that comes from vendors or vintners, very little of which will actually make us pull the trigger on a bottle unless we're drinking it alone and can smother the shame of having been taken, if it turns out to suck.

Now, I don't know much about wine, partly because I'm not a wine industry person. But among the things I study is the relationship among writing, authority, and evidence. There is decent evidence of what makes a wine terrible, but not much about what makes one good. Time, temperature, terroir, temperament, mood, and mold all make a difference when we're talking about individual bottles, which I suspect is the way most of us buy. And all those factors can be taken into account in a written description of a wine: its social connections, food compatability, trajectory and history, all of these things that give life and richness can be conveyed.

That, to me, is the role of the wine blog. My title suggests that they have a nature, but frankly, the title is an essayistic affectation designed to attract the attention of wine bloggers (who will find much to complain about here, if they have any acuity or self-esteem). But what one does in a media outlet changes when its context changes. And the variety of social embeddings of wine that responsible wine blogs create (the jury is out for me on whether James Suckling's new project is responsible or not) is salutary.

That said, I really appreciate writers who make clear their relationship to the wine industry, even if only to say their role is just that of a verbose consumer. And it can catalyze fascinating interactions among readers, writers, and wineries, when you do: check out what I think is an astonishing and rare exchange at Wine Peeps, when a blogger had a tough time at a 2009 tasting at Soos Creek. (Also, please do NOT buy Soos Creek wines, because I want them all.)

At this point what irritates me most--and see Siva Vaidhyanathan's The Googlization of Everything for a much more detailed rant--is Google's algorithm and the search engine optimization industry. When I search for any particular bottle of wine, it's very difficult to find blog posts reviewing the wine, particularly if those blog posts aren't on massively linked sites like Vinography. There are thousands and thousands of wine blogs, and you can't tell me that a CDP I buy at Costco hasn't been reviewed on one of them. But it's gotten harder and harder over the last year, thanks to the Cork'd-Winesearcher-Snooth-Wine.com formations, to find blogger reviews unless they're brand new. If you want reviews that aren't trusted, it's the ones on these sites. StreetMarine says he found the Hello Kitty Brut Rose disappointing...say it ain't so!

So to those big four, and others that aspire to them: hear me. Start linking up blogger reviews. Do what Google can't, because your SEO specialists are hammering away at it, and give us links to blogger reviews of the wines, not just links to Cellartracker and some Parker scores.

And now, back to our regularly biased wine reviews!

Ornellaia Le Volte

2011-02-22T20:35:00.002-06:00

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia
Le Volte
Toscana
Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot
Bolgheri, Italy
2006
13.5%
$23.39 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Dark ruby with tiny brown tinge
Nose: Cherry, olive, rose, wet earth; mint and raspberry after a couple of hours
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry tea, or possibly cherry-flavored tobacco smoke
Middle: Licorice, black olive, coffee bean
Back: Thyme, soft but graphitic tannins
Burns clean?: Immaculately
Cap: Cork

This is an entry-level red for the famous Ornellaia brand. It's an odd blend, in my experience; this one is delightfully complex, with a beautiful nose. I'm no fan of Sangiovese in general, but the layers in this wine are seductive and ceaselessly changing. I've had the 2005, which was also delightful, but a little age seems to have benefited this. The texture is largely smooth, with some tannins still noticeable at the end, and it's light-bodied but complex-flavored.

Now, here is a thing: I think this is sort of a wine-geek wine. You'll find it on restaurant menus, I know, and if it's really old or really young, my guess is, it's a good call. But even this, at 9 years old, really only came into its own after a couple of hours open. So make 'em decant it, or aerate it, or something, just in case. And though it's made from varietals with legendary presence, the combination of them is quite fascinating and subtle. Some wines taste the same, each time you take a sip (within the first couple of hours after they're open, anyway). This one changes, and next to the fascinating aromas of the wine, it's the best part of the show.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Ferrer Bobet Priorat

2011-02-19T21:27:00.001-06:00

Ferrer Bobet
Priorat
Carignane, Grenache
Falset, Tarragona, Spain
2006
15%
$33.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Cherry, plum, orange
Body: Medium
Front: Steely blackberry
Middle: Licorice, smoke, peppery spice
Back: Soft tannins, char, coffee bean
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Priorat: it's trendy, overpriced, and sometimes fantastic. This is pretty good, but I still think overpriced. It may be that in ten years (which it can certainly handle) it'll be awesome. Or, given the unevenness of the delivery on the palate, it may be that in six months it'll be fabulous, terrible in two years, and awesome again in five.

I suppose the moral of the story is: If you decide to go for this, get more than one bottle, and try to find it on sale! And don't try it with fondue. Terrible combination; shame on me!

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Kathy

Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Marie-Antoinette

2011-02-19T19:14:00.002-06:00

J.J. Vincent
Marie-Antoinette
Pouilly-Fuissé
Chardonnay
Fuissé, Burgundy, France
2008
13%
$15.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Smoke, lemon, wet earth
Body: Light
Front: Salty peach
Middle: Lemony tang
Back: Oak, wet rocks
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I'm on a quest for a cheap Costco star Chardonnay, and it's not going well. So far, the Kumeu River and the Gary Farrell (which I see I did not review, but will next time!) are leading the pack, but they're not really cheap at around $20. Come through for me, France!

This is close. The nose isn't exciting, but on the palate, the wine is balanced, smooth, and has some nice layers of acid, fruit, and oak. It's great with the impromptu antipasto I'm having: cornichons, cherry peppers, a little salami, and mustard.

Who likes it: Kathy
Who hates it: Mignon

Von Strasser Cabernet Diamond Mountain

2011-01-18T22:30:00.002-06:00

Von Strasser Winery
Diamond Mountain District
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Calistoga, California, U.S.A.
2005
14.1%
$39.43 -- Spec's, Austin, TX

Color: Dark cherry red
Nose: Stewed plum, herbes de provence, black cherry pipe tobacco
Body: Medium
Front: Sour cherry
Middle: Roasted fig, orange
Back: Toasted spices, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I got this wine on a bit of a sale; I'd heard good things about the house, and loved a Diamond Mountain cab that I had at Sattui's Castello di Amoroso a couple of years ago.

This isn't a huge wine, but it's complex, and evolves in an interesting (though not quite distracting) way as it opens up. The nose is delightful; like the palate, it combines fruit and herb elements in a seductive way. It's like a conversation with a beautiful, but very highly educated person: alluring, leaving you curious for more, but not (usually) visceral. This one is almost as good in bed as it is over dinner.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Ravenswood Pickberry Vineyards Red Wine

2011-01-17T22:25:00.003-06:00

Ravenswood Winery
Pickberry Vineyard
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma Mountain
Sonoma, California, U.S.A.
2006
14.2%
$19.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark cherry red with purple tinge
Nose: Blueberry pie, cherry cola, cumin
Body: Full
Front: Cherry cream
Middle: Licorice, salt
Back: Marshmallowy tannins, green herbs of some kind
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This wine is powerful, but young. The tannins are nicely distributed throughout the wine, but they're everywhere you turn, as my "marshmallow" description is meant to suggest. I'm thinking of the outside of the marshmallow, there, though the richness of this wine lends it a more comprehensively marshmallow-like texture, come to think of it. The combination of big fruit and curry-like smells on this wine is completely enchanting to me, I must say; if the wine ever ends up tasting like that (and I think it's got several years to go before it really integrates) it'll be astonishing.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Bridget

Angela Pinot Noir

2011-01-15T23:56:00.001-06:00

Clawson Creek
Angela
Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley
Carlton, Oregon, U.S.A.
2008
13%
$29.98 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Strawberry jam, cherry
Body: Medium
Front: Raspberry
Middle: Strawberry-cherry cola
Back: A little Slim Jim, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Very
Cap: Cork

The taste of this wine reminds me a bit of the Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir. It's bright, but not just fruity, with a couple of layers, and has a lovely texture. The price is, under the circumstances, a little shocking even at Costco (though after reading the hype about this wine, I'm curious why it is available at Costco; perhaps there was a large harvest in 2008).

But it certainly goes well with food -- grilled lamb chops, roasted beets, and sauteed beet greens with onions, dried red pepper, and garlic, tonight. After it was open three hours, it gained weight and interest, particularly when paired with some late-night sorpressata. And it comes in a gigantic bottle with a huge punt, so you can wear it on your head when you are finished drinking it.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Chateau de Launay Bordeaux Superieur

2011-01-14T19:48:00.001-06:00

Chateau de Launay
Bordeaux Superieur
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
St.-Emilion, Gironde, France
2003
14.5%
$20.29 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Deep clear garnet
Nose: Cherry, black olives, black currant
Body: Medium to full
Front: Cassis, licorice
Middle: Black cherry, espresso, charred vegetables
Back: Leathery tannins, mint
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Alright. One mystery has been solved: my Bordeaux-disappointment problem. I like St.-Emilion, and not so much the other areas that I have tried. This may require a systematic approach to figuring out if this is true of all the areas.

There's a lot going on in this wine. It's good. I'm going to go back and get more. Tonight I'm having it with a little sauteed spinach, butternut squash soup, and lemon-herb marinated pork tenderloin, which I'm sure will be a good pairing, but it's pleasant with a simple chunk of Centenol cheese, too.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Tablas Creek Vermentino

2011-01-11T02:55:00.000-06:00

Tablas Creek Vineyard
Vermentino
Paso Robles, California, USA
2009
13.5%
$24.00 -- Tablas Creek, Paso Robles, CA

Color: Light gold
Nose: Pear, honeysuckle, lime
Body: Medium
Front: Pear, apple
Middle: Marshmallows--not roasted, river stones
Back: Lemon, pine
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

There's a slight effervescence in this wine that I find delightful, right off the bat. This isn't the acidic, cutting style that I'm used to from Italian vermentinos, but it is damn fine. The pine flavor is an illusion; this wine is not fermented in oak, and they stop malolactic fermentation to keep the acid levels high. Still, it's very smooth, and would be great with seafood, particularly of the briny sort. I'd serve this to anyone.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Hall Cabernet

2011-01-04T22:22:00.002-06:00

Hall
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, U.S.A.
2006
14.5%
$28.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Deep cherry red
Nose: Blueberry jam, cherry, white pepper
Body: Full
Front: Cherry vanilla
Middle: Cream, raspberry
Back: Cafe au lait, blueberries, firm tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a large, rich wine, in a big California style. The oak is elegantly balanced, though, with interesting fruit. And it's not cloying or sticky; it has nice texture, and will evolve into a much smoother version of itself over time. The tannins will kick you if you try to drink it too soon after opening, so beware of it at a restaurant and ask if it's had some time to breathe. If so, it's splendid with food--on its own, at this age, it's a little too wound up; like having dinner with a smart, talkative humanities graduate student, who's brilliant but more pleasant when occasionally silent from scarfing down food. Oddly (and maybe it's just my weirdo palate du jour) it was more fascinating with the bleu cheese, tomato, and iceberg salad tonight than the grilled ribeye (though tasty with both).

Wine Spectator gave this wine 94 points, which I can't quite support, and not just because we don't do points here at Caveat Emptyer: but I will say that it's a bargain at the Costco price.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Michael

Barrot et Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape

2011-01-02T21:11:00.002-06:00

Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault
Vaucluse, Chemin du Clos, France
2007
15%
$25.95 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark red, purple edges
Nose: Stewed cranberries; licorice; coffee jam; Slim Jim
Body: Full
Front: Dark cherries, violets
Middle: Licorice, blackberries, mushrooms
Back: Espresso, firm tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Everybody has had coffee jam, right? Just checking. It's an occult southern tradition; you can look it up. This is a tasty wine, good for a cold night with some baked chicken and a warm, salty tomato and basil soup. It's a good deal at the Costco price, as there aren't a huge number of $25 wines that are this interesting, especially after an hour to breathe.

Who likes it: Mignon
Who hates it: Bridget

Mérode Ladoix 1er Cru White Burgundy

2011-01-02T19:27:00.002-06:00

Prince Florent de Mérode
Ladoix 1er Cru
Hautes Mourottes
Chardonnay
Grand Vin de Bourgogne
Ladoix-Serrigny, Cote-d'or, France
2005
13%
$24.49 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Rich light gold
Nose: Lemon, salt, intriguing hint of charred bone
Body: Medium
Front: Lemon, salt
Middle: Lime, beach ball
Back: Wood for days, graphite
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a lovely wine, if a little rough in the transitions. The acid is good, and there's a hint of fruit in it, with nice non-food savors in it. It's great with nuts and cheese, and I think would be phenomenal with oysters, if I had any lying around here. The nose smells a bit like a fire raging in a lemon grove. Or a forest fire being put out with lemon juice, either of which reminds me more of California, but the palate is French to be sure.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Virage

2011-01-01T20:55:00.004-06:00

Virage Vineyards
Napa Valley Red Wine
Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa, California, U.S.A.
2007
14.4%
$45.00 -- Virage Vineyards, Napa, CA

Color: Deep ruby with a tinge of purple
Nose: Herb, spice, a little lovely stank, vanilla, violets
Body: Medium to full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Currant, cilantro
Back: Smooth tannins, anise
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

My affection for Cabernet Franc is well-known to my tiny following. As it happens, one of my blog's followers makes one, and this is her maiden vintage. I'm delighted to be among the first to drink this wine, and have been looking forward to it for months. As a point of information, this bottle (pictured at right with Wayne Bates pottery) wasn't a gift; indeed, I've never had a wine company send me anything to review, which shows that I have been doing something wrong!

This is a wine of tremendous subtlety, that rewards patience and a good meal to accompany it. The nose is enchanting, and moreso the more air it gets. It has a combination of greenness--herby greenness, more than broccoli or that sort of thing--with dark fruit and telluric aromas that I like in some European wines and that's pretty rare in American ones.

At this price point, doubtless people who encounter this wine will decant it and give it an hour or two to open. Having gifted three bottles of it (see, Emily, I'm spreading the word in the best of ways, not just in the watered-down medium of a review!) I'm going to lay down my other two for two and five years: structurally they're built to last, and I am excited to see what the future holds for them and their younger siblings.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Domaine Carneros by Taittinger Sparkling Wine

2011-01-01T18:32:00.000-06:00

Domaine Carneros
Brut
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Napa, California, U.S.A.
2006
12%
$19.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Pale gold
Nose: Apple, minerals, a hint of bread
Body: Light
Front: Lemon
Middle: Bread, orange
Back: Lime, wet stones
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

What better way to ring in the new year--and more or less this blog's fourth--than with sparkling wine? This one has long been a family favorite, though I seldom, for some reason, take the time to review sparkling wines (a fault I'll correct this year), so it hasn't shown up yet.

The 2006 is super, at this price. Nicely balanced, with good bread, acidity, fruit, and a hint of something more. Just a hint, though: it doesn't have that powerful late-mid-palate delivery of something bizarre that I like most in sparkling wine. But it was the delight of my guests last night, and of course it's a good pairing with almost everything except bubble gum and raw pork. Wasn't superb with pistachios, but you cannot win them all.

As for this blog, I note that last year was a banner year, if one measures things in terms of volume. This year I'm focusing a little more on quality. I'm not sure what that means, but I think it has something to do with reviewing odd varietals, tackling a couple of problems in the wine world, more carefully reviewing things made by houses I gravitate to, including more photos, and reporting on more wine dinners.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Round Pond Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-12-30T22:06:00.001-06:00

Round Pond Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon
Rutherford, Napa Valley
Rutherford, California, U.S.A.
2007
14.5%
$39.00 -- H.E.B., Austin, TX

Color: Deep cherry red
Nose: Cherry
Body: Full
Front: Cherry vanilla, banana
Middle: Clove, cream, raspberry
Back: Heat, blueberries, strong tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Back when I first tried Caravan and liked it, the sommelier at Wolfgang's in Highlands, NC told me I should try Round Pond. I thought, awesome: and then it turned out their Cabs were really expensive. For some reason, this was on sale at HEB, so I went for it.

Admittedly, 2007 was a good year, but this is quite lovely under any circumstances. It takes a while to loosen up, and even then, the Rutherford tannins are still assertive. But the fruit is lovely (some people will hate the banana-vanilla-ish business in it, but I like that) and the oak is tempered. It's great with a grilled ribeye and tomato salad, and makes Band of Horses songs sound even better than usual.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Bridget

Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay

2010-12-29T20:01:00.002-06:00

Kumeu River Wines
Chardonnay
Estate Bottled
Chardonnay
Kumeu, New Zealand
2005
13.5%
$20.29 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Rich light gold
Nose: Lemon, salt, bread, slightly burned popcorn
Body: Medium
Front: Lime
Middle: Steely lemon (know you not the power of the steely lemon?)
Back: Balsa wood, tea leaf
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

I've heard good things about these wines for some time, and am glad I finally took the (20% reduced price) chance to try one out. According to the back label, this should have been drunk a year ago at the latest, but I find it's still quite lovely; crisp acidity right off the bat, and well-tempered oak that keeps the fruit flavors (all tangy--no cloying melon or honey) present and functioning.

Part of what's cool about drinking this wine now is that there's lots of oak on the nose, so to get the acidic cut up front is kind of delightful. You could put the forgetting power of wine to work: Drink it while you're doing something distracting, so you will keep forgetting the taste and having this experience over and over again.

My new favorite pairing with chardonnays is manchego cheese; but I think given the low alcohol and charming acid of this one, it'll go with many foods, so fear not.

Note 1-21-2011: Tried the 2007; it's much more plainly oaky on the nose, mixed with salty lemon, but the palate had the same wonderful sparkly, cutting acidity up front and balanced fruit, cedar, and flowers on the palate.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Chateau Fuisse Pouilly-Fuisse

2010-12-27T18:57:00.000-06:00

Chateau Fuisse
Pouilly-Fuisse
"Les Combettes"
Chardonnay
Cru de Bourgogne
J.J. Vincent, Burgundy, France
2006
13.5%
$40.99 -- Wine Library, Springfield, NJ

Color: Rich light gold
Nose: Lemon, salt, lime, bread
Body: Full
Front: Lemon, orange
Middle: French toast, parsley, salt
Back: A hint of bread, pear rind
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a stunning wine. It's big and lush, but has a slice of acid in it that's truly delightful, and in just the right place. It has a long, clingy delivery and is fantastic with nuts, white cheeses, pate, all sorts of foods. I wish more California makers could get this style at this alcohol level.

Christmas is past, but thanks to this wine I'm still in the spirit!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Nickel & Nickel Searby Vineyard Chardonnay

2010-12-26T18:51:00.000-06:00

Nickel and Nickel Winery
Searby Vineyard
Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
Oakville, California, USA
2007
14.4%
$34.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Lemon, salt, honey, hot pepper, cedar
Body: Medium to full
Front: Salt, meyer lemon
Middle: French toast with honey, eucalyptus
Back: Oak, basil
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Nickel & Nickel is a Far Niente project, of single vineyard wines from groovy places other than the Far Niente estate. This one has a distinctive California style; big and salty, buttery, oaky. This one is elegantly balanced, lively, and delicious. If you don't like the oaky flavor, avoid it. Otherwise, you'll very much like this, I suspect, with a wide range of foods and especially grilled or roasted fish, I would think.

I'm having it with a range of cheeses: Lincolnshire Poacher, Stichelton, Lancashire, and a bit of medio curado Manchego; it's stunning with the latter. It goes beautifully with the Motown Christmas record, which I can't recommend highly enough.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Château Petit Fombrauge St. Emilion

2010-12-25T00:24:00.001-06:00

Château Petit Fombrauge
St. Emilion Grand Cru
Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Libournais, Bordeaux, France
2000
13.9%
$35.98 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium to deep ruby
Nose: Pear, mustard, thyme, cherry
Body: Light to medium
Front: Cassis, tobacco
Middle: Chocolate, pickles
Back: Coffee, orange, sage
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This wine is haunting and delightful. The nose is absolutely stunning; it holds your attention and, I fear, might be better even than the taste. It's good with food (perhaps best with the Stichelton cheese tonight, though with the pate, cornichons, and mustard it was pretty damn fine) and enchanted the whole room.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape

2010-12-24T22:52:00.004-06:00

Domaine du Pegau
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France
2004
14%
$60.98 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Barnyard--the whole yard: broccoli, straw, manure, jerky, black currant, mixed berry jam, mint
Body: Full
Front: Licorice, plum
Middle: Red pepper flakes, bacon, mint
Back: Elegant tannins, rocks,
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is one of the world's most famous, and judging from Cellartracker, adored wines. And I can see why. This 2004 is still young, but it's delicious. It's big, yet not heavy; striking, yet not bombastic; tasty, without being generic. The combination of fruits, vegetables, and earth in this wine is phenomenal--frankly, among the most fascinating of any bottle I've tasted. It was great with *everything* on the table tonight: potatoes au gratin; roast beef; steamed broccoli; buttered rolls; you name it.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

Gundlach Bundschu Vintage Reserve Cabernet

2010-12-24T21:57:00.001-06:00

Gundlach Bundschu Winery
Vintage Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma, California, U.S.A.
1996
13.9%
$54.98 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Deep ruby with a brown tinge
Nose: Cherry, eucalyptus, sage
Body: Medium to full
Front: Raspberry, stewed plums
Middle: Coffee, sage
Back: Firm tannins, leather
Burns clean?: Mostly
Cap: Cork

It's a special night, let's face it. Time to break out the good shit. This isn't a fat cabernet, though; it's got an old-world vibe, a lightness in the middle and a seriousness about its non-fruit flavors. A cigar-drinker's wine; a foodie's wine. This one is better with pickles and mustard--palate-cleansers.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Ondarre Rioja Reserva

2010-12-23T20:45:00.001-06:00

Bodegas Ondarre
Reserva
Rioja
Tempranillo
Viana, Spain
2004
13.5%
$14.98 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium deep rose
Nose: Cherry, mesquite smoke, cream, truffle
Body: Medium
Front: Raspberry, dried cherry
Middle: Coffee, sage
Back: Firm tannins, leather, orange peel
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Spanish to the core. As much a tactile as a taste experience; a little fruit, a little earth, a bit of herbal kick. This isn't a big wine; indeed, there's a bit of hollowness to the mid-palate that is disappointing. This can take more time in the bottle, and if you open it soon, give it plenty of air so that it chills out a bit and loses its tightness. It will be great with any kind of food, as it was for example with the pepperoni pizza I had with it tonight.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Toad Hollow Chardonnay

2010-12-23T19:59:00.001-06:00

Toad Hollow Vineyards
Francine's Selection
Chardonnay
Unoaked
Mendocino
Healdsburg, California, USA
2007
13.9%
$14.99 -- Wine Pro, Paducah, KY

Color: Light gold
Nose: Pear, pickles, salt
Body: Medium
Front: Salt
Middle: A little honey
Back: A little lemon
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I am not tasting anything on this wine, which is unusual. It's a little salty, with a bit of spritz, perhaps, on the mouthfeel. But seriously: if there's something here I can't taste it. Very strange. But, insamuch as it tastes a lot like salt water, it will go with almost any kind of food! I suspect it's over the hill--so, if you find this one, make sure it's young.

Who likes it: Uh...
Who hates it: Michael

Trio Reserva

2010-12-22T18:43:00.002-06:00

Viña Concha y Toro
Trio
Reserva
Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc
Maipo Valley, Chile
2007
14.1%
$13.98 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX

Color: Medium to deep ruby
Nose: Creamy cherry, pepper, herbs
Body: Medium
Front: Black cherry
Middle: Dusty tannins, strawberry, herbes de provence
Back: Roasted jalapeño, cedar
Burns clean?: Not really
Cap: Fake cork

As my several fans know, I'm not much of a Chilean wine drinker. But every now and then, I give one a shot. It's claimed by many that excellent wines at low prices are coming out of Chile. This is a reserved wine, not too bombastic either on the nose or the palate, but interesting nonetheless. I'm not eating yet, but I suspect it'll hold up--given the tannins--to a wide range of foods. And it's inexpensive, but balanced, so try it out!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Freemark Abbey Chardonnay

2010-12-21T19:03:00.001-06:00

Freemark Abbey Winery
Chardonnay
Napa Valley
Oakville, California, U.S.A.
2009
14.1%
$16.88 at Wine Pro, Paducah, KY

Color: Lovely light straw
Nose: Oak, lime, salt, pear
Body: Medium
Front: Honeydew
Middle: Oak, plastic
Back: Mild jalapeno, butter
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a smooth-drinking Chardonnay, in a big-oak style. The buttery oakiness predominates, so if you are, as I am, a more fruit-oriented white wine drinker, you might steer clear. I find an oddly plastic-tasting element in this that I can't quite pin down but that's deterring me from pure delight. This will be super with a little Spanish chicken dish of some sort, or a rich fish dish, or perhaps some succotash.

It is going very well with a little Christmas brass music. Yee haw!

Who likes it: Kathy
Who hates it: Mignon

Artadi Viñas de Gain Rioja

2010-12-20T20:33:00.002-06:00

Artadi viñedas y vinos
Viñas de Gain
Rioja
Laguardia, Alava, Spain
2007
14%
$20.98 -- Wine Library, Springfield, NJ

Color: Medium deep rosy-purple
Nose: Blueberry, violets, chocolate, stewed fruit, smoke
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry pie
Middle: Orange,vanilla
Back: Soft tannins, graphite, cigar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a smooth operator. Very easy to drink. Fruit, funk, flowers--what more could you want?

But: I'll wait a few years before I open another one of these. It was dang-o-licious with pork chops and mashed turnips and butter and salt and pepper and so forth tonight, but it'll be way better with alla that stuff and more in about five to fifteen years. The tannins are there, but the character of the fruit and earth flavors is there too. Deeelightful!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Stonewall Albariño

2010-12-19T19:07:00.002-06:00

Pedernales Cellars
Albariño
Stonewall, Texas, USA
2008
14.2%
$17.99 -- Pedernales Cellars, Stonewall, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Pear, bandaid, verbena
Body: Medium
Front: Pear, apple
Middle: Butter, roasted green chili
Back: Oak
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Texas wine, finally! Okay, sure, the grapes are actually from California. (There's a horrific infection of Texas vines happening that is challenging winemakers here.) But both the winemaker and the philosophy at Pedernales are sound--make wine from grapes that thrive in the climate of Texas. I'll report more on this winery later, but for the moment, I'll say that the Albariño is delightful and good with a sharp cheese.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Christian Mouiex Pomerol

2010-12-19T17:49:00.002-06:00

Christian Moueix
[Gran Vin]
Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Libourne, Gironde, France
2005
13.5%
$18.99 at Wine Pro, Paducah, KY

Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Mushroom, cherry
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry
Middle: Coffee
Back: Chocolate, firm tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Another somewhat disappointing Bordeaux. If I had a bottle of this, I'd wait another year before opening it, perhaps two, in hopes that it'll integrate better. As with more Bordeaux, it needs air, but even then, though the fruit and the chocolate come out, it retains a slight astringency and resistance. If you dig astringency and resistance, you will *love* it!

It wasn't bad with chili and beans, I dare say, on a frigid night.

Who likes it: Mignon
Who hates it: Steve

Elizabeth Spencer Sauvignon Blanc

2010-12-13T20:12:00.006-06:00

Elizabeth Spencer Wines
Sauvignon Blanc
Mendocino
Ukiah, California, U.S.A
2008
11-14% (!)
$13.49 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Light dirty gold
Nose: Grapefruit, wood, honey
Body: Light to medium
Front: Kiwi
Middle: Apple, banana
Back: A little maderization, acetoney
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Fake cork

This, I suspect, was a lovely wine a year ago, but it's starting to go over the hill right now. It tastes better a little warmer, though, so don't follow (U.S.) custom in chilling it massively before serving it--a little bit is enough--and don't wait too long before you drink it. The mid-palate flavors are tasty; the apple is notably focused, which reminds me why I like this winemaker so much.

Sadly, I have no food pairing to report, except that it tastes good with almonds. The cupboard is bare. But the small cadre of followers of this blog know that good things are to come shortly. As the end of the year approaches, the wine begins to flow and the food to appear, copiously and experimentally, and this year will be no exception, as your favorite deity is my witness!

Note, 1/15/2011: Tried the 2009, and indeed, it's brighter and lacks the faint maderization. Bright acidity, good with cheese and such.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Andrew Will Sheridan Vineyard

2010-12-11T00:28:00.002-06:00

Andrew Will Cellars
Sheridan Vineyard
Yakima Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot
Vashon, WA, U.S.A.
2004
14.2%
$37.99 at Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Mushroom and yeast, raspberry peat
Body: Medium to full
Front: Forest floor
Middle: Raspberry, cherry
Back: Oak, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I ferment. In this wine's wake I think a lot about...stuff. Brilliance in balance seems modeled for a moment: but the shroomy nose unbalances it in a happy way.

Can you find it (either unbalance or this bottle)? Maybe not. Praise your host if she bestows it on you: she must delight in your company if so.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Robert Sinskey Cabernet Franc

2010-12-11T00:18:00.001-06:00

Robert Sinskey Vineyards
Cabernet Franc
Vandal Vineyard
Los Carneros
Napa, California, USA
2002
13.5%
$20.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Chipotle-cedar chocolate covered cherry
Body: Full
Front: Sour cherry
Middle: Licorice, raspberry
Back: Cigar wrapper, coffee, assertive tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is only the second Cab Franc I've reviewed, despite my affection for this varietal. There's something elusive and haunting about it. People talk about the soft tannins, and about the chocolateyness of it, but that ain't it for me. I've had tongue-wrappingly tannic ones, and dark fruit dominated ones with no sign of mocha. I find it a moving target, when it's the principal grape in the blend.

If there's not a smidgen of Merlot in this, I'll be shocked. 2002: it's eight years old at this point, and still tannic, and no sign of brown at the edges. Try it with chocolate, or something lightly spicy, and I think it'll drink easier. But for me this is a wine for drinking when you want to think about things, including the weirdness of taste, as an experience. It's far from easy drinking, but far from unrewarding, too.

Who likes it: Michael (it's a stretch)
Who hates it: Bridget

Charles Smith Eve Chardonnay

2010-12-10T23:50:00.000-06:00

Charles Smith Wines
Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
Washington State
Mattawa, Washington, USA
2008
13.5%
$10.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Pear, wood, butter
Body: Medium
Front: Pear, apple
Middle: Buttery oak
Back: Lemon
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This is one of crazy Charles Smith's wines--always interesting, a little edgy. (One of the best video blog moments ever [~8:15] is when, while being interviewed by wine critic Gary Vaynerchuk, he unfolds his large pocket knife and puts it on the table.)

I'm a huge fan of Smith's K Syrah, and needed a little acidic contrast with the many reds I've been drinking lately. This wine had a lot of residual spritz, which I enjoyed, and a nice balance of flavors, though the oak was a little...chemically for me at first. On day 2 (I just re-capped it and put it in the fridge) it was really delightful.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Meiomi Pinot Noir

2010-11-18T01:34:00.006-06:00

Belle Glos Wines
Pinot Noir
Sonoma, Monterey, and Santa Barbara Counties
Rutherford, California, USA
2008
13.9%
$18.00 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium purpley red
Nose: Cherry, cranberry, bread pudding
Body: Medium to light
Front: Cherry
Middle: Baking spices, cranberry
Back: Strawberry, caramel
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

Until this had been open for half an hour, it was hot, acidic, and acetoney. So beware: it's a "cheap" pinot, but it's also not. It's been open now for six hours, and it's rich, layered, and fascinating. The mouthfeel is silky; it lunges into you like a Gerard Manley Hopkins stanza.

Most importantly, perhaps, it's good with food. I made a chicken and chorizo dish, with artichoke hearts, red onions, garlic, and red peppers. I knew I'd need something red, and a with little spice to go with it, but I wasn't sure what to pair with it and didn't feel like a syrah. So I tried a new edition of an old favorite, the 2007 Caravan (about which more in a moment) and this pinot.

At first, it was an even split. The Caravan brought out the tomato and the artichoke, which was delightful, and asserted its personality, too. But eventually, the Meiomi emerged triumphant; after it had opened up, chocolatey, bready, and cinnamony notes sang in combination with the paprika, chorizo, and caramelized elements of the dish. The management of the oak on this wine will please many, and the fruit is vibrant without getting bubble-gummy or lick-the-envelopey. Try it with pickles.

Back to the Caravan. This is one of my favorite wines. But I can't help but note a minor, yet important change to the back label. They used to credit the quotation there this way: "Adapted from Rumi"; now, it's more definitive: "The Rubiayat by Omar Khayyam." Both of these may be true, sort of.

Why sort of? Because Rumi came after Khayyam, and thus may have borrowed from him, or transformed him, or indeed, may not have, and the original attribution might have been pure fantasy. And yet, only sort of, because, fantasy or no, in this attempt to correct the "record"--an attempt which I would argue is out of touch with the Sufic mode of this ghazal--the labelists spelled "Rubaiyat" wrong. In the abstract, a wrong spelling means little. In the attempt to purify, it reminds us of the importance of imbalance over perfection: of passion and meaningfulness, over integrity. Look at the Meiomi: grapes from three different counties! But passion makes them sing harmoniously. Why credit and quote, Caravan, when you could sing it yourself?

That said, I hope that the Wappo tribe, from whose language "Meiomi" is taken, is getting some kickbacks on the profits from this wine, which I suspect to be the broad-market bottle from Belle Glos.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

V. Sattui Pinot Noir

2010-11-14T23:18:00.003-06:00

V. Sattui Winery
Los Carneros
Pinot Noir
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, USA
2007
13.8%
$28.00 -- Sattui Winery, St. Helena, CA

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Cherry, cranberry, mesquite smoke
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry
Middle: Orange, roasted fig
Back: Black cherry, soft tannins, a little heat
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Another delightful bottle from Sattui. This is an assertive wine, with the distinctive profile of a Carneros Pinot; there is a balance between fruit and smoke (sometimes earth, in other Carneros Pinots) that I enjoy. It's smooth, but not silky; with another year or two in the bottle, I think, it has a chance to match up its structure with its mouthfeel. Great with salad--so that is a plus!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape

2010-11-12T21:42:00.003-06:00

Domaine Chante Cigale
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, France
2007
14%
$29.95 -- Central Market, Austin, Texas

Color: Dark red, purple edges
Nose: Cherries, genoa salami, cigar wrapper, plums
Body: Full
Front: Stewed cherries
Middle: Roasted fig, venison
Back: Tobacco, licorice, basil
Burns clean?: Quite so
Cap: Cork

My love of 2007 southern Rhone wines continues. A note on the flavor profile above: it's quite contingent on when you engage the wine. Early, the nose was closed and the palate starkly acidic and earthy. After a half hour open, fruits and a little stewedness came in. Now, at two-plus hours open, it's acquiring the profile I describe above. This is the sort of wine that convinces me that putting bottles in the cellar and trying to forget they're there is worth it. The texture of it is delightful--superfine tannins, dangerously drinkable (especially at, I suspect, closer to 15% than the 14% listed on the bottle).

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Chalone Sauvignon Blanc

2010-11-12T20:03:00.003-06:00

Chalone Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc
Monterey County
Soledad, California, USA
2008
13.5%
$8.99 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX

Color: Pale straw with a tinge of green
Nose: Bread pudding
Body: Medium
Front: Butter
Middle: Orange peel, bread
Back: Apricot, cardboard
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

After a long hiatus, the Emptyer is back! I was out making money, faithful readers, and it has to last.

This is an interesting wine. I'm not sure I'd go so far as to say it's awesome, but it's very good with food, and it has a few distinct layers that will be interesting to many people. It's certainly American, with a butteriness (despite a kind of chalky mouthfeel, actually) and a bigness that overbalance the acidity, a bit. But I'm drinking it with Spanish chorizo and it's a good combination, refracting the flavors of the wine in ways different from when you drink it alone.

I think the price is right, and for many people it will be a bargain!

Who likes it: Kathy
Who hates it: Mignon

Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz Mountains

2010-10-23T23:18:00.001-05:00

Martin Ray Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Santa Cruz Mountains
Sonoma
Santa Rosa, California, USA
2002
14.4%
$24.99 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Deep red
Nose: Mint, cherries, tar
Body: Full
Front: Cherries
Middle: Raspberries, chocolate, licorice
Back: Mint, cream, cigar wrapper
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

A delightful wine. Balanced and smooth on the palate. There are tannins enough to suggest it can still age longer, and plenty of acid to balance them. The cherry and raspberry flavors beautifully set up the meatier, chocolatier flavors in the mid-palate, and it pairs elegantly with grilled food of any kind.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Domaine de Triennes St. Auguste

2010-10-09T21:28:00.002-05:00

Domaine de Triennes
St Auguste
Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot
Vin de Pays du Var
Nans-les-Pins, France
2005
13.5%
$14.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX

Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Black cherry, those purple flowers on the wisteria vine sometimes, Tootsie Rolls
Body: Medium to full
Front: Black cherry
Middle: Blackberries, licorice
Back: Black tea, chocolate
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is not a blend I'm used to from France, but I like it. It's nicely balanced, rich, aromatic, but not cloying or too stewed. It didn't completely change my world, but it's good with food. The roasted lamb was a little too much for it; there's a bit of a dip in the intensity of the wine in the mid-palate, which on its own lets some nice blueberry come out, but with food gets drowned out. With a meal that's even just a little lighter--turkey--this would rock it.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Stoller Pinot Noir

2010-10-04T20:24:00.002-05:00

Stoller Vineyards
Pinot Noir
JV Estate
Dundee Hills
Dayton, Oregon, USA
2007
13.3%
$17.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium strawberry with a touch of peach
Nose: Cranberries, cherries, bacon, cinnamon
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry
Middle: Peach, cotton candy
Back: Sage, graphite
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

In a world of $45 crap Pinots, this is a delight to find. A hint of earthy stank on the nose, and another hint in the glass, but plenty of fruit (the cotton candyish flavor isn't overbearing) and a light, not cloying body. Bring it! This will be perfect with the red pepper and garlic, sausage, and farfalle I'm making tonight, but it'll be even better, I'd guess, with fish.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Roux Pouilly-Fuissé

2010-10-03T19:55:00.001-05:00

Roux Père & Fils
Pouilly-Fuissé
Chardonnay
Grand Vin de Bourgogne
Saint-Aubin, France
2009
13%
$8.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: A little faint; sea salt, maybe some lemon?
Body: Medium
Front: Lemon, honeydew
Middle: Salted buttermilk pie
Back: A hint of cedar, gravel
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This was so cheap for a Pouilly-Fuissé that I had to try it. Not bad, though the nose is reticent. It's acidy and minerally, as one would expect, but there is a hint of baking spices lurking around the edges. I might get another bottle and put it away for a year or two just to see what happens. It's a smooth wine, and good with the sharp cheddar I'm finishing off tonight. All in all, at this price, a good deal!

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Morot Beaune Cent-Vignes 1er Cru

2010-10-02T22:28:00.001-05:00

Albert Morot
Beaune Cent-Vignes
1er Cru
Pinot Noir
Beaune, France
2007
13%
$50.00 -- Austin Wine Merchant, Austin, TX

Color: Light to medium strawberry
Nose: Cherry, peat, tobacco
Body: Full
Front: Strawberry
Middle: Cherry, a hint of cassis
Back: A touch of oak, sage
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I went to a wine shop today, The Austin Wine Merchant, that has been much-recommended to me. They've got a particularly strong selection of French and Italian wines; I saw many old favorites. And they're knowledgeable and not pushy, which I like. Under the circumstances, I approached helpful Dan about a Pinot Noir, and he led me to this one.

While my favorite wine of last year was a Burgundy, it was an exception--I just glanced back through most of my accounts of them, and they're eh. So-so. Okay. Part of the problem is that these wines close down after a year or so in bottle, and don't reemerge for awhile. When they do, they're often way, way better than before. It's not quite a shell game, but it is an investment-driven style: you have to find something young, know it has promise, buy some bottles, and wait. Repeat annually. Six or seven years later, you will have a non-stop supply of awesome wine. In the meantime, drink Zinfandel. Also pray that none of your choices are stinkers, and follow Cellartracker to see how they're drinking.

This wine, I think, is going to be delicious ten years from now. It is balanced, if subtle, and there's enough fruit and enough other interesting flavors to entertain. The tannins are in effect, but before they hit, the wine is very smooth.

Note: After leaving half the bottle overnight (vacuvin), the nose is much richer and more interesting, and the palate is a little more elaborate. So--the future of this one looks good, I think!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Bernardus Chardonnay

2010-09-29T19:40:00.001-05:00

Bernardus Winery
Chardonnay
Monterey Country
Carmel Valley, California, USA
2008
14.2%
$17.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: Lemon cream pie
Body: Full
Front: Lemon, salt
Middle: Butter
Back: Oak, thyme
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is smooth stuff; it's easy to drink and good with food. There are few surprises in it; it's California big, and lacks the palatal nooks and crannies of, say, a French Chardonnay. Interestingly, it seems quite tasty with Cheshire and cheddar cheeses. I like the little greenness at the end, though that only seems to emerge when the glass warms up a bit, so you fast drinkers may not experience it.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Ehlers Meritage

2010-09-28T22:03:00.006-05:00

Ehlers Estate
Meritage
Chairman's Selection
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
Napa, California
2005
13.8%
$35.49 -- Central Market, Austin, TX

Color: Opaque garnet
Nose: Cherry, stewed plum, tar
Body: Full
Front: Black cherry, rhubarb
Middle: Prune, orange, clove
Back: Black tea, chocolate, elegant tannins
Burns clean?: Extremely. Maybe too clean.
Cap: Cork

I've become a big fan of Ehlers. Their '05 Cabernet is phenomenal, and this stuff is absolutely delightful. It takes about an hour to open up, and there is a distinct greenness at the first that will frighten you, but have patience. A hint of the vegetal qualities stays on, even as the darker flavors start to show. It's not all deliciousness; it's more like a conversation, with this wine.

If you like a candy-ish wine, or simple flavors, this won't please you. You will be all like, WTF, Asmodeus; thanks for nothin'. But if you want a little something to chew on, this is a phenomenal choice.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

Bell Claret

2010-09-25T21:21:00.000-05:00

Bell Wine Cellars
Claret
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec
Napa Valley
Yountville, California, USA
2005
13.9%
$25.99 -- Spec's Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Unattractive dark red, browning at the edges
Nose: Cherry marijuana
Body: Medium to full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Fines herbes, licorice
Back: Cardboard, coffee
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is an excellent wine, to my taste. From smelling to swallowing, it's like you walked into an Amsterdam coffee shop where half the people were smoking the sensimilla and the other half were smoking cherry-flavored tobacco, then ate a space cake with a Cherry Coke, and for some reason really needed a cafe au lait afterwards and ate the cup while you were drinking the coffee. If that doesn't make you want to try this wine, then Allah have mercy on you.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Hahn Estates SLH Syrah

2010-09-07T20:43:00.002-05:00

Hahn Winery
SLH
SyrahCentral Coast (Monterey)
Soledad, California, USA
2007
14.7%
$13.99 at Whole Foods, Austin, TX

Color: Opaque blood red
Nose: Black plum, cherry, smoke from charcoal with lighter fluid
Body: Full and creamy
Front: Blueberry pie, cafe au lait
Middle: Cherry, venison, sage
Back: Mesquite, espresso
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Good lord. This wine makes you sit up straight. It's huge, sweet, smoky, strong (14.7? probably closer to 15), sweaty, salty. Oenorati will say that it's fake-tasting, like the synthesized flavors in soda. That may be true. And you may like it! Seriously, it's like blueberry sauce on roasted venison. I'll say this: it doesn't evolve much in the glass, and I'm searching for tannins and not finding much. But pair it with some brisket and blueberry pie, and you will be plenty happy.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

An inappropriate and uncharacteristic outburst.

2010-09-07T19:12:00.002-05:00

PARDON ME, FAITHFUL READER, but I have something to say about Bordeaux wines, and in particular, red ones.

I have had a few fantastic Bordeaux wines in my time. I didn't pay for them; I am a lucky man. Every single bottle of red Bordeaux I've purchased recently in the $15 to $35 range--from 1998 to 2006 vintages--has been disappointing. Only a few have been outright bad, but: should any of them have been, at those prices? I don't review many of them here, because I lack the patience, or perhaps, the inventiveness. Every one I could describe, borrowing the words of Cellartracker reviewer Edv, this way:

Fruits compotés, une acidité rafraîchissante, mais cher pour ce qu'il apporte.

I've tried the decanter. I've tried them with food and without. I've tried them after a healthy dose of whiskey, and I've tried them en suite after delicious summer whites and appetizers.

Help me, readers. Help me, internet.

Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc

2010-09-07T18:55:00.000-05:00

Duckhorn Wine Company
Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon
Napa Valley
St. Helena, CA
2009
13%
$21.99 at Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Very pale straw
Nose: Grapefruit, honeysuckle, melon
Body: Medium
Front: Grapefruit
Middle: Mango, canteloupe
Back: Oak, pear
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It's pale but reasonably big in flavor; nicely balanced between acid and fruitiness and minerality; and it goes well with food. This is perhaps the second most to-my-taste Sauvignon Blanc I've had. Clearly I need to try more French ones, but next to Larkmead's this is the most delightful. The folks at Larkmead intimated that this is made at least partly from grapes they grow, and I believe it. I'm gonna go back and get more. Let me say, I'm usually unwilling to pay 21 bucks for a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, but this is actually worth it!

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Kirkland Stag's Leap Cabernet

2010-09-05T19:27:00.002-05:00

DC Flynt MW Selections
Kirkland Signature
Cabernet Sauvignon
Stag's Leap
Napa, California, USA
2007
14.3%
$17.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Plums, sour cherry, coconut, chocolate, nutmeg
Body: Medium to full
Front: Plum, vanilla
Middle: Cherry, coconut
Back: Black tea, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Recycled cork

This is good stuff. It's not huge or hugely complex--a little hollow in the mid-palate--but it's Stag's Leap for sure, and it's cheap as heck. The nose alone is worth it, actually, though the palate doesn't quite live up to it. There I could go for a little more sourness...but here's the thing: if you want a Cabernet that both has interesting flavors and is approachable now, this is hard to beat.

This wine is a negociant, of course: grapes bought from one or more vineyards that had some to spare and blended by a third party for Kirkland (Costco). I note that the negociant is based in Lake Charles, Louisiana, which oddly makes this a much more local wine than I had thought! Earlier this year, I tried their Mountain Cuvee, which, given that I first saw it in the Girard tasting room a week before it appeared at Costco, I suspect to be largely Girard fruit. It's also a good wine, much like this one in quality and complexity, though interestingly a little more pricey. It is less approachable, though, needing an hour or so to open up.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Steve

Poggio al Moro Bolgheri

2010-09-04T20:33:00.001-05:00

E. Santini
Poggio al Moro
Bolgheri DOC
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah
Tuscany, Italy
2007
13.8%
$21.49 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Opaque garnet
Nose: Cherry, vanilla, stewed plum, tar
Body: Full
Front: Black cherry
Middle: Stewed plum
Back: Black tea, tenacious tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a Tuscan, big and dark. It's rich, with a few focused, intense fruit flavors, and a leathery tannic backbone that reminds me of a good Assam tea. This stuff is nice, though I think that it'll be far better with some foods than with others--it wasn't a knockout with the cheeseburgers I grilled this evening, but I'm willing to experiment more to see what it will get along with, especially at a reasonable price like this.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Michael

Barnardus Marinus

2010-09-03T22:50:00.001-05:00

Bernardus Winery
Marinus
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec
Carmel Valley, California, USA
2004
14.5%
$23.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Cherry, vanilla, stewed plum, thyme
Body: Full
Front: Ripe cherry
Middle: Cassis, sage, oaky creaminess
Back: Orange, cigar wrapper, very soft tannins
Burns clean?: Almost; a little headache
Cap: Cork

This is a super wine. Really delightful, mature, balanced, focused, and rich; good with food (roasted chicken and romaine and roma tomato salad tonight); and interesting. A wine from Napa Valley that tasted like this would cost you $50 easy. Guessing from the stewed fruitiness of it, I'd say that it's at its peak, but I could be wrong, and at this price, it's worth putting one away for a year to see if it gets even more mellow and rich.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

L. Chatelain Chablis

2010-09-03T19:06:00.001-05:00

Domaine L. Chatelain

Chablis
Chardonnay
Gran Vin de Bourgogne
Fontenay-pres-Chablis, Fance
2008
12.5%
$14.69 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Lovely pale straw
Nose: Lemony pear, salty minerality, perhaps a little pee
Body: Medium
Front: Honeysuckle
Middle: Cantaloupe, salty minerality
Back: Oak, orange peel
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Fake cork

It would appear that I've never reviewed a Chablis before -- odd. I like them; from the Burgundy region of France, the Grand Vins like this one are usually uncomplicated, well-balanced Chardonnays. (One of the best wines I've ever had was a premier cru Chablis.)

This is a nice wine: it's got some body, persistence, a saltiness and floral presence that I enjoy. It's a perfect, late-summer (uh, I hope it's late summer), not terrifically alcoholic so it'll go with food, many-folks-will-like-it sort of wine at a good price.

Who likes it: Kathy
Who hates it: Mignon

Caveat Emptyer Top Ten of 2009-2010

2010-08-31T22:28:00.003-05:00

JUST MINUTES BEFORE THE DEADLINE, dear readers, I fulfill my summer promise of a top ten list.

As all four of you know, I'm not a "rankings" sort of person. I'm a both-and drinker. Let's try both. In different orders. With different foods. Maybe dimming the lights will help. Or sitting outside.

But one reader expressed a desire for a digest, and in the interests of democracy and shit, here we go: of the wines I've reviewed on this blog in the last year, what are my top ten? (Okay, actually, I'm doing this because I tend not to express a strong opinion in my reviews, and some folks who trust my palate don't have time to close-read all my bla bla bla about the wines.)

Prieure Roch Vosne-Romanee Les Clous
Sinskey Merlot
Gary Farrell Merlot
Shafer Merlot
San Román Toro
Saint Jean du Barroux L'Ogliocene
Eyrie Chardonnay
Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir
Frank Family Chardonnay
Howard Park Scotsdale Shiraz

I'll do my best to post a new version of this list annually. One thought on the list (other than the obvious infatuation with Merlot, which is interesting to have thrown in my own face... by me): I've had a number of wines that would be in this top ten, displacing those at the bottom, that I didn't review (some 2007 Chateauneufs come to mind, and a Terlato Chardonnay that I think is super). And there are some old favorites (the V. Sattui Suzanne's Vineyard 2002) to which I returned that I'm not including. So this approach to ranking will be structured a bit by novelty. When the volume of reviews warrants it, I'll do an ALL-TIME list.

Note, 4/15/2011: I just noticed that there are no Cabernets and no Champagnes on this list. Awesome, or no?

Napa Valley 2010

2010-08-31T21:39:00.007-05:00

NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA. If you're coming from out of state, usually, you get out of American Canyon, driving north, and you breathe a sigh of relief. You leave behind a place much like the place you just flew in from, and enter a distinctive terrain coated with farms and vineyards and odd,
kitschy sculpture and architecture.

The weirdness of California is legendary, but the combination of strong personalities and unusual microclimates--the latter, I suppose, being the landscape equivalent of weirdness--gives Napa a unique feel. This is the second story I've done on California wine country, and this time I'm focusing on Napa to make a few observations about wineries and tasting and trends.

Napa wineries are expensive. I went to three, this time, that don't charge (or don't charge me, anyway): Anderson's Conn Valley, Larkmead, and V. Sattui (where I'm a member of their cellar club). The Frank Family winery used to be gratis, but no more. Anderson's Conn Valley was well worth the drive--through stunning mountainous landscape, filled with interesting birds and tucked-away homesteads--and their wines are delightful. Larkmead is an old favorite of mine, but they don't really have any entry-level wines; the tasting experience there is quiet and unhurried, and the 2007 Solari is phenomenal. V. Sattui is a carnival--even a little crazy down in the cellar--but it's a crowd pleaser, with what seemed like six thousand different wines. The Zinfandels and the Cabernets are great.

If you have to pay real money for a tasting, I'd say do it at a place like Duckhorn, where you try a great number of wines, you sit down, they give you water and crackers and nuts to snack on, and you can enjoy a beautiful garden-and-vines view. I paid almost as much for a tasting at Cliff Lede, which makes one of my favorite Cabernets, and got a tiny number of tiny tastes and no choice about what to taste. Also fun for the money is Rombauer: for ten bucks, you get some tasty wines, a stunning view, and a glass to take home with you.

Disappointments, for me, included Silver Oak and the Castello di Amorosa, Sattui's second project. The wines just weren't that great. But two things definitely emerged, across the different tastings: the 2007 reds are stunning; and for the most part, in the reds category, the regular tastings are pouring wines that are too young. I was poured Syrahs, Merlots, and Cabs that were not really ready to drink yet all up and down the valley, at places where I had paid $15 or more to taste. The 07s are exuberant young--and may at some point not long from now start hibernating--but the 06s aren't all ready to go. What's more, I experienced this with Syrahs, Merlots, and even Zins. At Sattui, they poured a 2003 Zin that was phenomenal; the 07s they poured were big, but disorganized and tight.

Of course there is a principle of thrift involved here--and it was Memorial Day weekend, so the tasting rooms were prepping for crowds of not-too-picky wine drinkers. My bad. But there must be another way!

Trends: Pinot is still large, and still often meh. They're pouring lots of Cab Franc for the oenorati, and it's good. Express an affection for Merlot, and you will get an extra pour (the 2005 Silverado is delightful, and, I learned, will be the last vintage with that minty edge, because they cut down the Eucalyptus trees next to the vineyard--boo!) in many cases. There were far more tour buses and limos this time than I remember before, which is a vast improvement: if there are more than three in your party, do it. A number of places were staying open later, though none beats Girard's 8 pm closing time. Finally, there are many ultra-premium, three-digit projects that are just not really worth it, so don't be impressed until you taste them, and trust the scrutiny of your palate. I didn't try a single $100+ Cabernet that I thought was tastier or more interesting than Larkmead's Solari.

Not trendy, but wonderful to see, was that the service everywhere in Napa is still excellent. From the collective A Dozen Vintners even to estate wineries I mock for their pretentiousness (Darioush), the pourers are engaging, passionate people who want to find out what you like. Next time I report on Napa, I'll include some of their voices, which I suspect will put a different spin on all of the above.

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir

2010-08-31T20:23:00.001-05:00

Hamilton Russell Vineyards
Pinot Noir
Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
Walker Bay
Hermanus, S. Africa
2008
13.3%
$25.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Cherry cola, venison, mint, stewed orange
Body: Medium
Front: Dried cranberry, mint
Middle: Tart but creamy fizziness, lemon
Back: Olive, charred oak, tar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a damn strange wine, as the flavor descriptions above perhaps suggest. It's smoky, earthy, minty--loaded with personality. This is not a crowd-pleaser, though it would be really fun to see what a large group of not-everyday wine drinkers would make of it. I like it a lot. It has the lightness of body and the intensity of flavor of really good Pinot. The smokiness, a sort of minty smokiness, if that makes any kind of sense, is something I've experienced in South African reds before, so I suspect it has something to do with either terroir or the oak that they use. Whatever it is, this wine doesn't bore me, like so many Pinots do--if you like a little stank on it, give this a try.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Mignon

Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape

2010-08-30T20:31:00.002-05:00

Domaine de Cristia
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Grenache, Syrah
Courthézon, France
2007
15%
$32.95 -- Costco, Austin, Texas

Color: Dark red, purple edges
Nose: Stewed cranberries and oranges; licorice; currant jam
Body: Full
Front: Dark cherries, roses
Middle: Licorice
Back: Olives, mesquite smoke, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a delightful, balanced wine, from a vintage in which many of the wines are bombastic. It'll be interesting to see how this develops over time, but I think it has a decade of evolution ahead. There's an odd hollowness that happens about 2/3 of the way through the palate, for some reason; it's not too disconcerting, but it does somewhat reveal the alcohol level of the wine. This with a little duck with some sort of fruit sauce would be a colossally good pairing; I'm having it with some Tomme Crayeuse cheese, which is not the best combo, but I'm betting it'll rock with the pizza I just ordered.

A shout-out to my second "follower," Emily Richer, a winemaker with a fascinating Cab Franc-oriented project underway called "Virage." Check out her blog here. As my three other readers know, Cab Franc is controversial in my wine drinking circle, but I continue to proselytize about it by concealing labels and making people try it!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

I Saw Miles and Miles of Wine Bars

2010-08-29T23:18:00.005-05:00

AUSTIN, TEXAS: SONG, WOMEN, AND WINE. (Sorry, ladies; if I had my way it'd be another order.)

When I moved here, I was worried about the wine. I'm not one of the oenorati, but still, some things are obvious: it's hot here; it's a beer town (like many in Texas); and the bigger the state, the worse the potential liquor-distribution corruption. Within weeks, though, my fears were laid to rest, and my curiosity grew--it turns out that there are many wine bars in Austin, with styles to suit different tastes.

I haven't hit them all, yet, because I ran out of money and had to turn to a life of crime after wine bar number nine. There are a few more, and I'll get to them eventually.

For you POWER PLAYERS out there, who LIVE LIFE TO THE FULLEST, BABY, and DON'T HAVE TIME FOR CHIT CHAT, here's your ranked version of what follows:

1. Vino Vino
2. Trading Post
3. Cru
4. House Wine
5. Uncorked
6. Cork and Co.
7. Fion Wine Pub
8. The Grove

Now, for those of you with a moment or two to read the narration, and who know that one size never fits all, and that an awareness of that is what makes Austin so awesome, here's the deal:

You could endlessly enumerate categories for a wine bar, because every wine bar owner has a theory. Flights? Urban-cosmo feel? Killer food? Awesome deals? Bottles at retail prices? The most trendy wines? But a marketing theory is not enough.

I look for a wine bar built on a self-awareness about palate. That is, the human beings in the house who choose the wine fearlessly assert their taste both in the wine list and, in harmony with that taste, in the other features of the joint, from marketing to decor to programming to food. Even if my palate hates the palate of those human beings, then, I'll respect this harmony, because I know somebody--many somebodies!--will enjoy it, be regulars, and promote it.

Most wine bars will shout to you that the staff is involved in choosing the wines. Or at least--an important distinction--will offer "staff favorites." This is useless, of course, unless you know each staff member's palate, and it's often the case that as far as buying the wines and setting prices, staff have no say.

Far better is a place where the staff are encouraged to tell you what the wines are like, and to experiment with your palate: that is, to pour you lots of samples until you find something you like. This should NOT cost you money. If they charge you for tastes ("3 oz. / 5 oz. / 6 oz"), go somewhere else, I say. Flights are okay, if they are priced right and are interesting. (Even better is when staff members remember who you are and guide you to the new bottles that are in your line; you can tell they'll be able to do this from the way they fact-find with you the first time.)

Without further ado, here's a brief sense of these excellent joints:

8. The Grove

This place is a little corporate inside, but has a nice oak-covered patio. The wine list is good and the flights are well-constructed to please. The food is okay, but I wasn't blown away, and it's in a bourgeois part of town, so you are stuck with people who ought to be at home drinking cases of Cheval Blanc but instead are having social hours with their bosses' friends at The Grove. The service is good, but a little stiff sometimes; there are bottles at near-retail prices for purchase in the joint, which means if you know what you're after and are with a few folks, it's a great deal.

7. Fion Wine Pub

Now we begin to get into Austin weirdness. An Irish Wine Pub? I was just in Ireland, and can report that it's not wine country: the distribution there is mafia-esque, and there's no sun, so they don't grow grapes for fermenting. Fion is in Bee Caves, a bourgeois little town near/in Austin, but well out of the way for tourists. The food is decent, and the beer selection is phenomenal. By the glass or flight, the wine isn't that great. But they've got stellar bottles, for the oenoscenti anyway, at retail prices, and will pop 'em for you. So I say bring a couple of friends and live it up. The service is good and sharp--a bit Irish, really, so be on your toes! One bad thing: they sell some sort of boutique soap there, and the smell of it is really powerful, so in a lot of places near the bar you can't really smell the wine. Boo!

6. Cork and Co.

Cork and Company, unlike the previous two bars, is downtown, in the midst of it all. The service is good, if not warm; the food is good but not great; but the wine list is more coherent and powerful than the previous two places, which raises it in my estimate. Still, it's a tough call--let's put it this way: go to Cork and Co. during happy hour.

5. Uncorked

Really, the same goes for Uncorked, which is a bit more out of the way, just across the I-35 border in East Austin. It has many things going for it, including a good wine list and friendly service, lots of space and parking. It's in an old house, so it has a nice feel to it, and comfortable seating situations from which to choose. I found the staff there a tad less familiar with the wines, but pretty willing to work with you to figure out what you might like.

4. House Wine

Now we get into the interesting stuff. House Wine is in an old house in one of the hippest parts of town: just off Lamar and Barton Springs. The space is pure Austin eclecticism, as is the crowd. The prices are good. The food is not great, and the staff are beautiful but not particularly helpful. But the plate of the joint is unmistakeable, old world bargains: Spanish first, Italians second, obscure French third, etc. There's live music, which is great, and on certain days they'll hook you up with the stuff they opened the day before for half price by the glass. But: often the wines are too warm and oxygenated, and the staff don't encourage tasting at all. So be firm!

3. Cru

Cru is a chain. This would seem immediately to take it off my list. But they take really good care of their wines, and they will let you taste every damn one on the menu if you ask. No you di-en! Yes, I did, haters. The staff are too professional at the start, but they quickly warm up, especially if you're a local. The locations are corporate, to be sure: one downtown in a key condo-and-hotel area, the other up north in the suburbs. But both have delightful outdoor seating, excellent soundtracks, and quite good food at a reasonable price. And the palate is comparatively consistent: big wines, with strong personalities, served in interesting flights. A few of the staff are real terroirists, which has its advantages once you figure out their tastes, and they'll load you up with free vino to try to win you over if you engage with them. Bravo.

2. Trading Post

Back to the 'burbs. There's a swarm of wine bars in Bee Caves, and this one is my favorite. The interior is classic Austin--looks like a damn Elks Club, with leather chairs and red drapery and dark wood. The food is fantastic; the happy hour is a bargain; the palate of the buyer is unapologetically California (the old world wines they choose are brimming with personality); and it's unpretentious as all get-out. They encourage tasting enthusiastically. They also enthusiastically encourage tasting. I tasted enthusiastically. Is it worth a trip out there? Uh huh.

1. Vino Vino

Ah, Vino Vino. I love you and I hate you. I love you because of the music, the decor, the awesome hip neighborhood (Hyde Park), the ginormous pours (for real: have never seen bigger), the many discoveries I've made there, and the fact that you have only ONE California wine on the list (Conn Valley's Prologue). I hate you because you make me drink so many wines that I think I'm not going to like and then I do. I hate you because you are so much cooler than I am and you are brimming with hot girls that are too cool for me. I hate you because your food is so damn good, but I can't eat dinner there because I know I will drink too much wine and I live too far out to take a taxi home. In other words, I love you. The love-sonnet aside: there is an outdoor area in back, complete with a little gas fireplace, that is simply a delightful place to confab with friends; the palate is balanced and old world, favoring strong fruit and strong earth (whether the wine is white or red); they'll let you taste whatever; they've got retail price bottles that make it a bargain for three or more drinkers. Finally, the music isn't just music: it's local musicians with national reputations, or who are about to have them.

Austin's a cool town, loaded with tech savants, up-and-coming politicians, intellectuals, ripped semi-professional bicyclists, haptic musicians, hot sorority girls, artists...you name it. It's a world-class city, and a stunning, if surprising, place to have a great glass of wine. I'll update the narrative above, and change the rankings if necessary, since the odds are that half these places won't exist a year from now (whenever now is). If I ever sober up, I'll add more to the list--but start here and you can't go wrong.

Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon

2010-08-21T21:54:00.001-05:00

Clos du Val
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, USA
2006
13.5%
$21.00 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Cherry, vanilla
Body: Medium to full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Cassis, sage, oaky creaminess
Back: Blackberry, cigar wrapper, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I've been unimpressed by Clos du Val lately, but at 21 bucks, I'm thrilled with this. It's not big, but it's interesting; uncharacteristic for Napa, but with strong fruit. Though it's low in alcohol, I didn't find that it was radiantly excellent with food; with roasted vegetables, it was lovely, though.

I'm about due for the Austin wine bar report, my top wines of the last year, and my report on Napa wineries: I swear to my loyal readers that both of you will see these things ere August is out!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

Pellegrini Olivet Lane Chardonnay

2010-08-21T19:39:00.000-05:00

Pellegrini Family Vineyards
Chardonnay
Olivet Lane Vineyard
Russian River Valley
Santa Rosa, California, USA
2007
14.1%
$17.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: Yellow pear, honeysuckle
Body: Medium
Front: Honeysuckle
Middle: Cantaloupe, salty minerality
Back: Oak, butter, something leafy
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a charming, uncomplicated Chardonnay. It's not changing my world, but it'll make a lot of people happy; things are nicely balanced in it, though I could use a little more pointed acidity to balance the honeyness.

The green leafiness I'm picking up may be an aftereffect of the food accompaniment: some apple slices with a little aged hard Italian cheese that was wrapped in hay (Il Forteto Pecorino Affeinato). Ferreal. It's also got a little honey on it, which pairs nicely with the wine.

Who likes it: Kathy
Who hates it: Mignon

M. Cosentino Franc

2010-08-16T22:16:00.000-05:00

Cosentino Winery
Franc
Cabernet Franc
California
Woodbridge, California, USA
2007
14.6%
$14.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Cherry, cinnamon, Slim Jim, cream, pie crust
Body: Full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Licorice, raspberry
Back: Cigar wrapper, coffee, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a two-dimensional wine, but both dimensions are good. The first is the scent: lovely, baked meat pie with fruit on top odors. The second dimension is the taste, firm tannins and fruit and a little darkness. Neither changes much as the wine is open. If the fruit isn't largely Lodi and Paso-area, I'll be shocked, given the taste profile of this wine. But it's good with food--an artichoke-mozzarella-olive-tomato thing with a melon and prosciutto main course, tonight. (They say don't ever grocery shop when you're hungry; if you grocery shop right after exhausting yourself athletically in 105-degree weather, it will equally spin things... towards the uncooked!)

Cabernet Franc one of my favorite varietals, but I haven't sought it out often because so few people will drink it with me. The oenorati tell me that it's less tannic than Cabernet Sauvignon, to which I say, it depends on how it's made and where it's grown. It makes the ladies make bitter beer face, and that is enough evidence for me. The other Cab Francs I've got are earnestly aging, to lose a little more of that dry bite and gain a bit of complexity; I don't think this one will age much, so go for it now, with some cheese!

Who likes it: Mignon
Who hates it: Kathy

Shafer Merlot

2010-08-13T22:13:00.000-05:00

Shafer Vineyards
Merlot
Napa Valley
Oakville, California, USA
2006
14.9%
$38.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Cherry, espresso, raspberry, cream
Body: Full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Licorice, raspberry, orange peel
Back: Cigar wrapper, licorice, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is one of my favorite wines. It's rich but balanced; elegant but interesting. It has a million flavors bouncing around, in different unfoldings depending on how long the bottle's been open. It goes well with food (phenomenally with roasted vegetables) and everyone to whom I've introduced it likes it.

Note: Recently I had the 2007, and it was even better. More red fruit, just as lush, just as powerful; a tad more California-ish than the 2006, though it might grow more austere and Frenchy with time. I'm not sure that I would recommend allowing that to happen.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

Pellegrini Olivet Lane Pinot Noir

2010-08-11T20:17:00.000-05:00

Pellegrini Family Vineyards
Olivet Lane Vineyard
Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Santa Rosa, California, USA
2008
14.3%
$18.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Light garnet
Nose: Cherry, strawberry, Slim JimTM
Body: Medium
Front: Dry cherry, orange
Middle: Smoky honeysuckle, black currant
Back: Bacon, soft tannin
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

First off, this wine goes very well with food: tonight, a lettuce and tomato salad with a little stunning Pasolivo olive oil and balsamic, together with some Hole Foods brisket. The wine is rich, fruity but earthy, and well balanced. It's not a complete enchanter, as it's strong on the smoky flavors (doubtless a source of its partnership with the brisket) but...well--this is the second thing: Pinot Noir is hideously overpriced in the US, so to find one that is this good at a reasonable price is a delight.

Who likes it: Bridget
Who hates it: Maybe Mignon, due to the smokiness?

V. Sattui Cabernet Sattui Family

2010-08-08T21:38:00.002-05:00

V. Sattui Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Sattui Family
St. Helena, California, USA
2007
13.9%
$16.00 -- Sattui Winery, St. Helena, CA

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Cherry, vanilla, sage
Body: Full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Hazelnut, cherry pie
Back: Blackberry, cigar wrapper, firm tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It's another excellent 2007 Napa Cabernet. It was good with the grilled ribeye tonight (note the alcohol content under 14, which helps it pair well with food). My normal tendency with Sattui wines is to downplay their excellence in fear of drawing too much attention to them, but I have it on authority that there's a lot of the '07 harvest to go around, so this time I'll share.

Now, yer wine snobs aren't going to like this one much--indeed, they'll poo poo many Sattui wines, I'd guess--but since there aren't many wine snobs in the world, we have little to worry about.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

Michel DuTour Pouilly-Fuisse "La Roche"

2010-08-08T19:18:00.001-05:00

Michel DuTour
Pouilly-Fuisse
"La Roche"
Chardonnay
Montagny-Les-Beaune, France
2008
13%
$15.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dull medium gold
Nose: Orange peel, honey, lime
Body: Light to medium
Front: Pear
Middle: Honeydew, some minerality
Back: Lemon, oak
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

After an almost unforgivable hiatus, Caveat Emptyer is back. My return is with a whimper more than a bang, as this wine is pretty low-key. I hope I'm not the only one who generally feels French wines in the 10-30 dollar range are often not worth the money. Perhaps this one will become more interesting with time, and perhaps it'll stay in the background like it seems to right now. I'm usually an appreciator of subtle Chardonnays, so I hope I'm not just in the wrong mood! This one is more interesting with food, certainly--a little roasted almond, salty cheese, and cherries help it out.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvée

2010-07-07T20:53:00.000-05:00

Domaine Serene
Yamhill Cuvée
Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley
Dayton, Oregon, USA
2007
13.8%
$26.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Flowers, cinnamon, smoke
Body: Medium
Front: Dry cherry
Middle: Smoky honeysuckle
Back: Minerals, soft tannin
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Delightfully low in alcohol, fascinating on the palate, and good with food: it doesn't get much better. Actually, judging from the prices on the Domaine Serene website and the reports of my older wine-drinking friends, it does get a lot better, with Serene's higher-level Pinots. But this is a well-made, delicious wine at a price that's pretty good for Pinot.

This wine is widely available by the glass at restaurants, so give it a shot in someplace you trust before you buy a bottle--its austerity and weirdness aren't going to please all folks who like Pinot!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Fess Parker Chardonnay

2010-07-07T20:12:00.001-05:00

Fess Parker
Chardonnay
Ashley's Vineyard
Santa Rita Hills
Santa Maria, California, USA
2007
14.1%
$21.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Lovely medium gold
Nose: Yellow pear, marshmallows, a little heat, lime
Body: Full
Front: Meyer lemon
Middle: Honeydew, some minerality
Back: Cinnamon, key lime pie, wood
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a delightful Chardonnay. It is balanced, intriguing, and tasty; rich without being too buttery. There's a strange little alcoholic thing at the very end of the palate, which is oddly around the time that you sense a little unexpected cinnamon in it. This is what I mean by intriguing.

I have no pairing advice to offer tonight, as I had this with hot dogs and a tomato salad! It's hot out there. But at this price and with this bigness and balance, this wine will make many people happy.

Who likes it: Kathy
Who hates it: Bridget

Oakville Winery Cabernet

2010-07-05T22:01:00.003-05:00

Oakville Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville
Oakville, California, USA
2007
14.5%
$34.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Eucalyptus, cherry, espresso, a tinge of heat
Body: Full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Licorice, mint, orange peel
Back: Cigar wrapper, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Oh, no. Not another excellent 2007 Napa Cabernet. Okay, yes. It's another excellent 2007 Napa Cabernet. Particularly good with the grilled ribeye tonight, and, I suspect, better a few years from now, when the heat will back off and the fruit will step up a bit. But if you can get it at this price, and you like bracing, herby Cabernets, I would say you are getting a good deal even if you drink it tomorrow!

This is my first post in July, and I can't help but notice it's already July 5th! Historically, July is one of the least productive months for posting, the etiology of which I must contemplate. I suspect it's hot, so I'm not drinking as much of my staple red wine; I'm ludicrously busy with my non-wine-related jobs; and I'm always traveling for some reason. But I've got some surprises up my sleeve, O loyal readers!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

Eden Hall Shiraz Viognier

2010-06-24T21:26:00.003-05:00

David Hall
Eden Hall
Shiraz Viognier
Single Vineyard
Eden Valley (Barossa Valley)
Springton, South Australia
2004
14.5%
$19.98 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark blood red
Nose: Blackberry jam, plum, cilantro
Body: Medium, creamy
Front: Blueberries
Middle: Ripe cherry, pepper, sage
Back: Coffee,
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

Those who are closely following my every utterance will notice that I'm cheating.

I said I was done with the less-commonly consumed white varietal tasting, yet here we have a Viognier! It's just that it's also blended with Shiraz (95 Shiraz-5 Viognier for the curious). This is an Aussie experiment in a southern Rhone thing: if I remember correctly, for example, Cotes-du-Rhone wines can include a small percentage of white grapes, including Viognier.

This is unmistakably Australian, with big ripe fruit, strong personality, and that tangy thing at the end that I like so much in OZ wines. With a little ago on it, this I'd guess has calmed down a bit; I like it a lot, though it seems to lack a third level beyond the dark fruit and the tangyness. It's elegant, very easy to drink, and worth the price for a well-made, interesting wine. Tonight it was perfect paired with chicken fajita soft tacos.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Kathy

Hess Mt. Veeder Block 19 Cabernet

2010-06-23T21:14:00.003-05:00

The Hess Collection Winery
19 Block Cuvee
Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc
Mt. Veeder
Napa, California, USA
2006
14.4%
$23.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Eucalyptus, cherry, espresso
Body: Full
Front: Tart cherry, nopal
Middle: Licorice, mint, chocolate
Back: Leather, spicy tannins, sage
Burns clean?: Mostly
Cap: Cork

Put a little Syrah in it, and it's no longer a Bordeaux blend. Here's the thing, though: you don't need that reference point to enjoy this wine. It's Napa Valley mountain action, all the way. It's briary, dark, brooding, serious: not much fruity, though substantial and juicy. I love this paradox of wines from this region, as I have attested before. They're big like Napa, but they're weird like some of the best wines anywhere, and they carry serious terroir into your face.

So the pairing tonight was a failure: grilled ribeye. It's like you had a small party and you invited two awesome people that you didn't realize had dated but who broke up a few months ago and have still been following each others' endeavors on Facebook, but haven't actually posted anything on each others' walls or even really "liked" anything on each others' pages yet because it's still awkward. Not bad, just awkward. The alcohol makes it okay, but you don't want to repeat the experiment. This I'd pair with a mole, or a watermelon and mint salad (try it! let me know!), or a peppery wild boar ragu with mushrooms and pasta.

Somebody please let me know if nopal has been used before in a tasting note. I've tasted it before in some southern hemisphere whites but didn't have the courage to utter it.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Chateau St. Jean Belle Terre Chardonnay

2010-06-23T18:52:00.004-05:00

Chateau St. Jean
Chardonnay
Belle Terre Vineyard
Alexander Valley
Sonoma
Kenwood, California, USA
2007
14.4%
$13.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: Wood, banana, salt cod
Body: Full
Front: Lemon-lime
Middle: Soy sauce, butter
Back: Oak, white pepper
Burns clean?: Mostly
Cap: Cork

It's been late April since I reviewed a Chardonnay--and there are so many great ones out there yet to taste! So I get off the unusual-white-varietal train for a bit.

This is a big, almost frightening sort of wine. It's neither charming, nor particularly elegant. Both the nose and the palate feature things not normally encountered in Chardonnay, including fishy and salty odors and flavors, which I confess I find attractive. In fact, it tastes a lot like a parmesan-encrusted, baked sole with plenty of lemon juice. Partly this is because the acids in this one aren't particularly strong, so as a wine it feels a smidgen out of balance. As a fish I love it.

If you like the ripe oak bomb, you will find this wine to be a big bargain. But there is a hint of nail polish, late in the mid-palate, that will put some folks off.

Loyal readers have demanded my review of Austin wine bars. It's an interesting time here on that score, so I'm going to pony up soon, I promise. A teaser: how often do you find a wine bar where the music is as good as the wine? Or where you can listen to the sweet sounds of a drive-through burger joint next door as you sip? And the kicker: how many of you have been to an Irish wine pub--in the U.S.?

Who likes it: Mignon
Who hates it: Kathy

Wild Rock Pinot Noir

2010-06-09T20:07:00.002-05:00

Wild Rock Wine Company
Pinot Noir
Cupid's Arrow
Central Otago
Hastings, New Zealand
2008
13.5%
$18.98 -- Wine Trader, Lake Travis, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Strawberry, fish, smoke
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry
Middle: Strawberry cola

Back: Raspberry, Skittles, no tannins to speak of
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This one reminds me a lot of the Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir. It's bright but smoky, with a couple of layers, and at a decent price point for Pinot in general. There is a little third-stage candy-esque, raspberry thing that delivers on the finish, that is endearing, and makes it easy to drink. I'm hoping it will pair well with a chicken korma this evening; the low alcohol suggests a good pairing with food. It certainly goes well with the sunset!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Fess Parker Viognier

2010-06-07T17:55:00.001-05:00

Fess Parker Winery
Viognier
Santa Barbara County
Santa Maria, California, U.S.A.
2007
14.9%
$16.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium straw
Nose: Hazelnut, lemon, mango
Body: Full
Front: Honeydew
Middle: Honey, a little residual fizz
Back: Oak,
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Fake cork

We're nearing the end of the "experimental white grapes" extravaganza that I've been on lately. I think the end of it will come with the sparkling wine comparison that's upcoming, as the grapes that go into southern sparkling wines like cava are different from the traditional champagne grapes.

I've heard about Fess Parker wines before--there was a controversy about Parker selling land back to Native American tribes a few years ago that brought it to my attention, a little randomly--but have never tried one before today. This one is rather dark, almost Vin Jaune-y, with a delightfully nutty nose. It's a rich one--perhaps too much so for my taste, but I'm going to drink it outside in the 90-degree heat and I bet I'll appreciate it more. It'll go well with fruit and many cheeses. If you like a full-bodied, complex Chardonnay, but always find yourself wishing it was just a hair sweeter, go for this one.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Louis de Sacy Champagne Brut

2010-06-05T18:42:00.002-05:00

Louis de Sacy
Brut
Grand Cru
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier
Verzy, Champagne, France
NV
12%
$28.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX

Color: Pale gold
Nose: Carr's table water crackers, lemon,
Body: Light to medium
Front: Lemon
Middle: Bread, orange
Back: Lime, wet stones
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This isn't the most complex Champagne I've ever tasted, but it's not bad and it's got great acidity with a charming, yeasty nose. It's a very hot day here; there's a little Brie Couronne and garlic crackers going down after a nice dip in the pool, so situationally it's hard to beat what this wine is putting out!

I should really do a run-down of sparkling wines, as I tend to drink them without reviewing them. I think it's a strange market for them right now, with the French ones way overvalued in many cases and some Iberian ones slightly undervalued. Perhaps I will invite a bunch of folks over for a little Champagne tasting and see what happens....

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Silverado Merlot

2010-06-04T21:43:00.001-05:00

Silverado Vineyards
Merlot
Napa Valley
Napa, California, USA
2002
14.5%
$27.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Cherry, orange, anis, a touch of heat
Body: Medium
Front: Strawberry
Middle: Chocolate, graham cracker
Back: Leather, oak, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Merlot! I often love it. I visited Silverado Vineyards recently and enjoyed all of the Merlots they poured. They aren't super-complex, but they are charming, and have a nice acidity to balance the usual Napa bigness. And so perhaps unsurprisingly: I'm eating a tomato and avocado with lime and oil and vinegar salady sort of thing, and the 2002 pairs elegantly.

Note: The 2005 is really delightful: it has a healthy dose of mint on the nose and a bit on the palate. This is no coincidence, as there used to be eucalyptus trees around the vineyards from which the grapes came. They were removed after the 05 vintage, however, which I consider a most unfortunate decision. But...choose your poison, wisely.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Chateau de Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône

2010-06-04T19:32:00.002-05:00

Louis et Cherry Barruol
Chateau de Saint Cosme
Les Deux Albion
Côtes du Rhône
Syrah
Gigondas, France
2007
14.5%
$13.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX

Color: Deep purpley red
Nose: Cassis, strawberry jam, coffee
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry
Middle: Licorice, game, pepper
Back: A little heat, charcoal, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Like most of the 07 southern Rhone bottles I've had, this one is dense and rich, a big personality in the room. It's almost too intense for me, for a Côtes du Rhône; that it's all Syrah is interesting, though the house is a negociant, so nothing should be too surprising about it. I'd almost wait a year to try this again--or be prepared to drink it with some reasonably substantial food, perhaps something roasted and peppery. It'll take some age; I vacuum pumped it and tried it two days later and it had calmed down a bit, but was still lovely.

One of my three followers has observed to me that I've been out for two weeks: indeed, in Napa Valley. When I get a few hours, I'll lay the latest on you from the tasting rooms there.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Kathy

Perrin Cotes du Rhone-Villages

2010-05-16T19:46:00.002-05:00

Perrin & Fils
Cotes du Rhone-Villages
Grenache, Syrah
Orange, France
2007
13%
$9.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX

Color: Medium luminescent purpley red
Nose: Cherry IceeTM
Body: Medium to light
Front: Cherry
Middle: Big RedTM, white pepper
Back: Very soft tannins, a little stewed plum
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

The Perrin was the favorite of one of the two ladies I tasted southern Rhone wines with this evening. She liked its utter absence of tannins and its exuberant fruitiness. I liked it too, especially for a hot day with company and good appetizers. It won't stand up to much more sturdy food, and it's not a supremely complex tasting thing, but whatever it lacks in elegance it makes up in charm. The hint of something more complex on the very end of the palate is intriguing and keeps you going back to the glass. For some people this would be a dangerous wine, I think.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Michael

Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone-Villages

2010-05-16T19:38:00.002-05:00

Louis Bernard
Cotes du Rhone-Villages
Grenache, Syrah
Vaucluse, France
2007
14%
$9.07 -- H.E.B., Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Strawberries, cherries
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry, pepper
Middle: Watery blueberry
Back: Soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

The Bernard, a negociant wine, was nobody's favorite tonight, not even the generous two ladies I tried it with: it's a bit awkward, though it has some charming flavors lurking in it. The mid-palate is pretty hollow, though, and disappointing, given the somewhat wild nose. It was better with a little manchego, and tragic with garlic toast: a bit of an awkward guest!

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Michael

Domaine Nicolas Boiron Cotes du Rhone

2010-05-16T19:32:00.003-05:00

Domaine Bosquet des Papes
Domaine Nicolas Boiron
Cotes du Rhone
Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault?
Vaucluse, France
2007
14%
$12.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Deep purpley red
Nose: Cassis, raspberry jam, heat
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry, white pepper
Middle: Licorice, stewed plum, a tiny bit of game
Back: A little heat, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

The Rhone tour continues: tonight it was a trio of two Cotes du Rhone-Villages and this Cotes-du-Rhone, tasted with two beautiful ladies, some manchego, almonds, and garlic toast. Having tasted several of the top-of-the-line southern Rhones, it was time to get into real life everyday drinking territory.

This was one of the ladies' favorites--"this could be a conversation piece," she said, poetically--and I like it a lot, too. It's intense, but not overbearing; nicely balanced, with plenty of acid and a smidgen of oak, and reasonably complex. It was too hot for the other lady, who preferred the Perrin.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Kathy

Powers Reserve Cabernet

2010-05-15T21:37:00.001-05:00

Powers Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Reserve
Champoux vineyard
Horse Heaven Hills
Kennewick, Washington, USA
2006
14.5%
$21.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium to deep strawberry
Nose: Cherry, steak (or maybe shrimp?), vanilla extract, mint chocolate
Body: Full
Front: Tart cherries
Middle: Stewed plum, orange, bread
Back: Sage, licorice
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

The nose on this wine is lush and really, almost good enough to eat. I know that shrimp may seem like a weird descriptor, but there it is. It's fascinating. I've had good luck with the Champoux vineyard before; it goes into one of my favorite wines, an Andrew Will blend. Go here for a little more on the Powers folks. And go to Costco tomorrow, or you won't get it at this price, because I will beat you to it.

The palate is tasty, too, though I suspect some people will find it odd. The tannins are fine, and seem to be carrying a sort of tangy desert sage thing, which will make some people proclaim against the smoothness of the wine. Of course it needs to breathe, and these will rapidly soften up. It's good with food; the tartness of the fruit came out with the Basque chicken-and-chorizo I made tonight.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Michael

Robert Keenan Wine Dinner

2010-05-13T22:37:00.006-05:00

ONE OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS in Austin, Mirabelle, is just around the bend from my place. The food is excellent, and a few of the entrees are among the best in town. The wine list is really, really good: not vast, but well-designed. It pairs well with the menu, and there are always good deals to be had for someone with a little wine knowledge. Those without such knowledge will be thrilled.

"You get infected...with this thing in your blood," Michael Keenan told us, about getting into the wine business; "it's like a virus." I agree, and I ain't even in the wine business. I've reviewed Keenan wines before, so I was delighted at the opportunity to meet Michael Keenan and to taste some of the winery's other offerings. Before reflecting on the event itself--a different experience from my previous wine dinners--let me run down the wines, for surfers looking for opinions about how these wines are drinking right now:

2007 Keenan "Spring Mountain" Chardonnay: On the nose, some buttercream, a little pineapple, but reasonably tight. On the palate, excellently balanced, with lime, pineapple, butter, even a hint of mint, which was delightful, on the finish. Bourgogney. Splendid with a little crepe, prosciutto and gruyere canape. Circa $25 retail.

2006 Keenan Napa Valley Merlot: On the nose, licorice and cherry, with a hint of cinnamon. Chocolate, violets, and black cherry on the palate. I really liked this--I think it was my favorite. For a comparison, see this entry. Even better, as it's still young, with the arctic char and fava bean puree. They cheated by doing a Merlot reduction alongside--but I saw that coming, and tried the wine with the fava bean puree first, and it was a charming combination. Circa $30 retail.

2005 Keenan Napa Cabernet, circa $50 retail: On the nose, briary, smoky, plum-ridden; really intense. On the palate, the usual cherry, licorice, and plum, harmoniously balanced. A caveat: I favor mountain wines from the Napa/Sonoma areas, as you'll see from some other entries. And this is an '05: it's still young, and it had not been open long--yet it was damn tasty. And the same goes for...

2005 "Spring Mountain" Cabernet, Reserve: Pepper, plum, bell pepper, blackberry, and tar on the nose--though not tremendously focused. On the palate, more focused plum, licorice, smoke, and charming sage at the close. A charming wine in general, though worth the $90 price tag? Hard to say. Both Cabernets were delightful--and showed better--with the lamb enchilada and espresso crema sauce.

2005 Reserve Merlot, "Mailbox Vineyard": This has the hallmarks of a young vineyard. On the nose, black fruit, but a little sweetness in the aromas, and fascinating desert sage. On the palate, chocolate covered raspberry, plum, orange, and a hint of cilantro. Those with less affection for the mountain style, with its briary smoke, will like this one more, I think; and too, it's young. These wines are built to age, as my previous encounters with them suggested. This paired well, though not perhaps as elegantly as the previous courses, with a beef filet topped with foie gras (loyal reader #2, forgive me).

The genre of the wine dinner is still a bit of a mystery to me. I'm tempted to say that its characteristics are not generalizable--that each wine dinner tends to show its peculiarities in relation to the venue. Mirabelle is in a comparatively wealthy, comparatively suburban neighborhood, and its chef is a player in Austin's food and beverage realm. So perhaps it's not surprising that this dinner saw a fascinating combination of established, older folks with younger, mover-shaker business types. I'll do another of these dinners before long, and to test my theory, I'll choose an utterly new venue to me.

I had the good luck to be seated with a charming, charmingly clumsy photographer (who, I suspect, also preferred the Merlot), some mover-shaker folks (who, appallingly, left behind most of their wine and decamped early), and some longtime fans of Mirabelle. I was struck by the appreciation that Mirabelle's owner and head chef, Michael Vilim, showed for his staff, both by introducing them to us during the dinner and by naming all of them--servers, buser, and sous chefs--on the menu. A big small thing. (New York City peeps: please do post a comment if you have been to a restaurant-hosted wine dinner at which you learned the names of all of your servers and sous chefs.)

Michael Keenan has done a million of these things, you can tell, and he got up three times to talk about the wines, but otherwise hung back or cruised among the tables, informally chatting. That, it seemed to me, was an ideal approach--no pitch, no bullshit, no anxiousness, just passion. Or perhaps, a virus.

Finca el Origen Torrontes

2010-05-13T21:28:00.002-05:00

Bodegas y Viñedas La Esperanza
Finca el Origen
Torrontes
Reserva
Valle del Cafayate
Salta, Argentina
2008
14.0%
$9.45 -- H.E.B., Austin, TX

Color: Light straw
Nose: Peach, lemon, pepper
Body: Medium
Front: Pineapple
Middle: Mild poblano, butterscotch
Back: Lemon, apricot rocks
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This is a great, cheap summer wine. Not much is going on in it--it's exuberant but short-lived, like a mosquito or a bluebonnet. It tastes better than either of those things, I bet. It's good cold, and tasty with grilled pork and a simple salad. There's something else in the nose, something a bit more acidic than peaches, that I can't quite place: help me, loyal triumvirate of readers, if you get a chance to taste this inexpensive wine.

Seldom have I stuck with a wine experimentation plan this long. But it has gotten interesting: I've found a number of curious varietals (this being one of them) and nothing with too much acetone flavor yet. My only fear now is that I need to try these varietals from different houses -- perhaps different continents -- to see if I can identify commonalities. I'm not sure I have what it takes to do that!

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Bridget

L'Ecole No 41 Merlot

2010-05-09T20:55:00.005-05:00

L'Ecole No 41 Vineyards and Winery
Merlot
Columbia Valley
Lowden, Washington, USA
2006
14.3%
$20.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX

Color: Dark garnet, a hint of purple
Nose: Black cherry, plum, hint of cinnamon
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry, cassis, black tea
Middle: Pepper, venison, chocolate
Back: Leather, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Mostly
Cap: Cork

It's been awhile since I reviewed a Merlot, but that's not because I haven't been drinking them. They're still a great bargain, if you know which ones aren't over-oaked, at restaurants and in wine stores. This one is a good example. I can't stand the label, though on close inspection it's clever. It's not terrifically expensive. It's quite lovely; balanced, elegant, with suggestive flavors and aromas coming in and out, like orange, cotton candy, even lime.

It went well with the grilled steak and the almond soup I had this evening. It benefits tremendously from a little airing out; I decanted it for half an hour before I started in on it.

A note to my regular readers: I promise all three of you, in public, right now (because otherwise I will forget these ideas), that I'm going to do three special entries this summer, in no particular order. They will be

An entry on my favorite wines among the ones I've reviewed since the blog began. This will, by thunder, become an annual thing--and in the future I'll do my favorite wines of the intervening year.
An entry on the wine bars of Austin, Texas. I'm slowly working my way through them and already have important wisdom to share. But I need to take some pictures and some notes.
An entry on Napa Valley, 2010: I'm headed back not long from now.

Now: hold me to it! berate me in the comments if I don't pony up!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Walt Whitman on Champagne in Ice

2010-05-06T22:43:00.004-05:00

TONIGHT I PLANNED to review the Rodney Strong Alexander Valley cab, 2007. I'm drinking it now and it's pretty tannic: like the other 07 Cab I recently had, nice and fruity but seriously austere, and probably worth laying down for at least 3 more years before trying again.

Instead of a full review, I give you a bit of wino history:

http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/dgkeysearchdetail.cfm?trg=1&strucID=610549&imageID=M_1257636&total=3&num=0&parent_id=440816&word=&s=&notword=&d=&c=&f=&k=0&sScope=&sLevel=&sLabel=&lword=&lfield=&imgs=20&pos=2&snum=&e=w

"Champagne in ice." To my knowledge, an unpublished poem by the world-famous New Yorker (who died, tragically, in Jersey) Walt Whitman. Walt loved ice cream and he loved champagne, apparently; for a contradictory view (do I contradict myself? Very well, then, I contradict myself. I am large. I contain multitudes, homeboy!) see Whitman's anti-drinking novel, Franklin Evans.

We even get a glimpse of Whitman's palate: the champagne is "cold and tart-sweet drink'd from a big mug half-fill'd with ice." Oenophiles today would be shocked by the ice--but give it a try: you'll doubtless feel that freedom and joy the good gray poet talks about!