Kinton Syrah

Kinton Vineyards
Syrah
Santa Barbara County
Sta. Maria, California, U.S.A.
2004
14.3%
$13.39 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Beautiful, dark ruby
Nose: Blueberry, petrol, cherry,
Body: Medium to full
Front: Cherry, lime
Middle: Orange peel, plum, apple
Back: Coffee grounds, firm tannins
Burns clean?: Mostly
Cap: Cork

This has much of the style of Australian syrahs: big, bold, fruity, but dark and multilayered notwithstanding. I like this style, especially on a cold night and with old-school cooking. Some might find it too oaky, but it's getting reasonably old at this point, and I found the balance of fruit, acid, and secondary flavors pretty delightful. It's neither the smoothest nor the biggest Syrah out there; in the midpalate it backs off, a little, but I like the acidic fruit that you can taste when it does, so it doesn't bother me much, and the alcohol is reasonably under control.

Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Domaine du Pegau
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France
2004
14%
$60.98 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Barnyard--the whole yard: broccoli, straw, manure, jerky, black currant, mixed berry jam, mint
Body: Full
Front: Licorice, plum
Middle: Red pepper flakes, bacon, mint
Back: Elegant tannins, rocks, 
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is one of the world's most famous, and judging from Cellartracker, adored wines. And I can see why. This 2004 is still young, but it's delicious. It's big, yet not heavy; striking, yet not bombastic; tasty, without being generic. The combination of fruits, vegetables, and earth in this wine is phenomenal--frankly, among the most fascinating of any bottle I've tasted. It will be great with *everything* on the table: potatoes au gratin; roast beef; steamed broccoli; buttered rolls; you name it.

Ondarre Rioja Reserva

Bodegas Ondarre
Reserva
Rioja
Tempranillo
Viana, Spain
2004
13.5%
$14.98 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium deep rose
Nose: Cherry, mesquite smoke, cream, truffle
Body: Medium
Front: Raspberry, dried cherry
Middle: Coffee, sage
Back: Firm tannins, leather, orange peel 
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Spanish to the core. As much a tactile as a taste experience; a little fruit, a little earth, a bit of herbal kick. This isn't a big wine; indeed, there's a bit of hollowness to the mid-palate that is disappointing. This can take more time in the bottle, and if you open it soon, give it plenty of air so that it chills out a bit and loses its tightness. It will be great with any kind of food, as it was for example with the pepperoni pizza I had with it tonight.

Andrew Will Sheridan Vineyard

Andrew Will Cellars 
Sheridan Vineyard
Yakima Valley 
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot
Vashon, WA, U.S.A.
2004
14.2%
$37.99 at Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Mushroom and yeast, raspberry peat
Body: Medium to full
Front: Forest floor
Middle: Raspberry, cherry
Back: Oak, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork


I ferment. In this wine's wake I think a lot about...stuff. Brilliance in balance seems modeled for a moment: but the shroomy nose unbalances it in a happy way.

Can you find it (either unbalance or this bottle)? Maybe not. Praise your host if he or she bestows it on you: your company must be a delight, if so.

Barnardus Marinus

Bernardus Winery
Marinus
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec
Carmel Valley, California, USA
2004
14.5%
$23.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Cherry, vanilla, stewed plum, thyme
Body: Full
Front: Ripe cherry
Middle: Cassis, sage, oaky creaminess
Back: Orange, cigar wrapper, very soft tannins
Burns clean?: Almost; a little headache
Cap: Cork

This is a super wine. Really delightful, mature, balanced, focused, and rich; good with food (roasted chicken and romaine and roma tomato salad tonight); and interesting. A wine from Napa Valley that tasted like this would cost you $50 easy. Guessing from the stewed fruitiness of it, I'd say that it's at its peak, but I could be wrong, and at this price, it's worth putting one away for a year to see if it gets even more mellow and rich.

{Note, 2014: $50 indeed--Spec's raised their prices on the Marinus to $45 sometime last year--damnation. Costco must have run out.}

Eden Hall Shiraz Viognier

David Hall
Eden Hall
Shiraz Viognier
Single Vineyard
Eden Valley (Barossa Valley)
Springton, South Australia
2004
14.5%
$19.98 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark blood red
Nose: Blackberry jam, plum, cilantro
Body: Medium, creamy
Front: Blueberries
Middle: Ripe cherry, pepper, sage
Back: Coffee,
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

Those who are closely following my every utterance will notice that I'm cheating.

I said I was done with the less-commonly consumed white varietal tasting, yet here we have a Viognier! It's just that it's also blended with Shiraz (95 Shiraz-5 Viognier for the curious). This is an Aussie experiment in a southern Rhone thing: if I remember correctly, for example, Cotes-du-Rhone wines can include a small percentage of white grapes, including Viognier.

This is unmistakably Australian, with big ripe fruit, strong personality, and that tangy thing at the end that I like so much in OZ wines. With a little ago on it, this I'd guess has calmed down a bit; I like it a lot, though it seems to lack a third level beyond the dark fruit and the tangyness. It's elegant, very easy to drink, and worth the price for a well-made, interesting wine. Tonight it was perfect paired with a chicken fajita soft taco.

Saint Jean du Barroux L'Ogliocene

Philippe Gimel
Saint Jean du Barroux
L'Ogliocene
Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault
Cotes du Ventoux, Provence, France
2004
15%
$18.99 -- Wine Library, Springfield, NJ

Color: Deep purple
Nose: Cherry, licorice, rose water
Body: Full
Front: Sour cherry
Middle: Black licorice, rose, orange
Back: Sage, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It's yet another cold night in the Texas springtime. So yet another southern French wine comes out to warm my heart. This can take another year or four in the bottle, I wager. But I decanted it prodigiously then drank it vigorously with pepperoni pizza, and was happy. At first, the combination of the flavors described above strikes you as reminiscent of Ludens (cherry flavor) or perhaps even of Robitussin.

But this is not a bad thing. The fruit is fresh and sharp, but the herb and candy balance it nicely. It's surprisingly good with the pizza, considering the alcohol (and given my Robitussin comment above, I think the label's probably honest about the alcohol level). This wine is not elegant...but it might be magical.

An odd, and uncalled-for side comment--and French people, correct me on it if you must: I love Ricard, and other pastis blends. I can't help but feel a little pastis going on in this wine, and wonder if the French incline towards a licorice component perhaps more than Americans do. Almost everywhere has its own anisette: Raku, Anis del Mono, Jagermeister, pastis, etc. etc., all around the Mediterranean, at least. But the US, to my knowledge, has only imported anise-based beverages (I love Herbsaint, but, you know: New Orleans...it's colonial, basically).

Rutherford Hill Cabernet

Rutherford Hill Winery (Terlato Wines)
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Rutherford, California, USA
2004
14.2%
$19.00 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Black cherry, Dr. Pepper, coffee, violet CrayolaTM crayon
Body: Full
Front: Plum, chocolate
Middle: Raspberry, orange, black tea
Back: Soft tannins, cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I'm a big fan of Rutherford Hill wines, not so much because they're the tastiest things ever -- though they're pretty good -- as because they are solid, characteristic Napa wines at reasonable prices.

I'm having a bit of a strange struggle with myself as I drink this, respecting whether I prefer the Cabernet or the Merlot, especially given that in general the 2004 Merlot is a couple of bucks cheaper. They share many features: they're both generously oaked, and they're both from fruit grown in the same vineyards (probably all over the Valley), which gives them a strong personality. This one is probably a little more complex, but not as charming as the Merlot: so there, I finesse the question!

Note (3-8-2010): Had the 2003. 13.5% abv. Cherry, cedar, asphalt, and a hint of mint and NyQuil on the nose; plenty of oak, with a bit of cherry and cassis on the palate. I think I preferred the slightly more diverse palate of the 2004. On day 2, though, the mint and chocolate and wood leapt from the glass: fascinating!

L'Aventure Optimus

Stephan Vineyards
L'Aventure
Optimus
Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot
Paso Robles, California
2004
14.9%
$29.99 -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Dark garnet, even a hint of purple still there
Nose: Cassis, mint, pumpkin pie
Body: Full
Front: Plum
Middle: Chocolate, fig
Back: Firm tannins, sage
Burns clean?: Mostly
Cap: Cork

This wine is elegant and balanced. With a little air (it's still young) it grows into a beautifully haunting mixture of fruit, herbs, earth, and sweets. This right here exemplifies the potential of Paso Robles.

Note: 12-22-2010; had the 2005, and it is stunning. Blackberry, spice, chocolate, and much more. Again, it evolves as it opens--I would decant half the bottle, and leave the rest in there, and compare them over the course of a few hours. A true delight.

Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Les Pierres

Sonoma-Cutrer
Chardonnay
Les Pierres
Sonoma Coast
Windsor, California, USA
2004
13.9%
$27.29 [~$38.00] -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: Apple, lemon, bread
Body: Medium
Front: Apricot
Middle: Apple, butter
Back: Roasted fig, oak
Burns clean?: Yes, mostly
Cap: Cork

The nose on this wine is a little shy, which surprised me. I let it warm up to room temperature and it was still something of a wallflower. The palate is nicely balanced between the acidic dried fruitiness and stern oakiness. It didn't induce delight in me, I confess; there's a personality missing. But it's a serious wine--if you can find it at the price I managed to sneak away with it, then I'd say it's a good deal!

Franciscan Cabernet

Franciscan Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville Estate
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, USA
2004
14.1%
$19.99 -- Franciscan Winery, St. Helena, CA

Color: Dark garnet, a very faint hint of peach at the edge
Nose: Coffee, sour plum, raspberry
Body: Full
Front: Plum, roasted fig
Middle: Broccoli, espresso
Back: Licorice, easygoing tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I'm astonished to find that I haven't reviewed a Franciscan wine before. I've bought at least three cases of them; have examples of the 2003 and 2004 Cabs carefully stored away; am a fan of their "Cuvee Sauvage" naturally fermented Chardonnay; and like the Magnificat blend a lot. They are owned by the same folks that own Mount Veeder winery of whose wine I have spoken highly--so what happened?

I don't know. But I'm more distressed to find that I've consumed all but two bottles of my stash of the 2004 Cabernet. I remember thinking when I first tried it at the winery a few years ago that it had potential to be tasty as all get-out in a few years, and lo, I was correct. So why didn't I wait?

Because you can't wait forever. Life is short, my friends, and writing this blog entry will do good work if it reminds me of that. This is a French-style wine, which I suspect has a good dose of Merlot and a little Cab Franc in it. It has a rich (but not overripe) dark fruitiness balanced by distinct (and pleasant, to me) vegetal flavors, herbs, and coffee. Great with food, it will make a wide variety of drinkers happy. If you find some, save it for me.

A query for my readers: How the hell did this winery get the franciscan.com domain? I realize St. Francis committed to a life of poverty, but surely bogarting the franciscan.com domain--especially were it *not* to sell anything--would have been consistent with that apostolic intent?

Alamosa Texacaia

Alamosa Wine Cellars
Texacaia

Sangiovese, Syrah, Tempranillo
Hill Country
Bend, Texas, USA
2004
13.1%
$18.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium peachy garnet

Nose: Ripe plum, fruitcake, overripe strawberries

Body: Medium

Front: Super-tart cherry--like Pixie StixTM

Middle: Blueberry yogurt

Back: Topsoil

Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

Texas wine is big. That's appropriate. But in many cases, it is not necessarily good. One of the complaints I've had before--one that will be tested in the next few months, because at some point Asmodeus embarks upon a Texas wine tour--is the mismatch between the varietals I see bottled in stores and the ones you'd think would thrive in Texas. It's hot here, people. So: more Syrah, Zinfandel, perhaps Tempranillo, and never Chardonnay or Pinot Noir.

Alamosa Wine Cellars focuses on warm-weather varietals, which is a good thing. Its bottles are also quite reasonably priced for quality Texas reds. Now, I'm a proven non-fan of Sangiovese, and I think it shows here. But I also wonder about the release policy on these wines; 5 years I think may be pushing it. It's peachy at the edges, and has a bit of cloy on the palate.

I'll say this, though: it's not overoaked. It's just that a certain complexity is missing. There's a strong cherry tartness that is engaging, but is a bit too much for me. But if you like a little tang on your wine, or are simply curious about Texas wines, load this up and see what you think!

Deerfield Merlot Cuvee

Deerfield Ranch Winery
Merlot Cuvee
North Coast
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Malbec, Cabernet Franc
Kenwood, California, USA
2004
14.2%
$25.00 -- Vino 100, Lakeway, TX

Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Oak, cinnamon cherry pie, licorice, cat pee
Body: Medium
Front: Plum bacon
Middle: Espresso, blackberry, oak
Back: Sticky tannins, sage
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork

For those who've never had plum bacon, this will be an interesting wine. It's plentifully oaked; if you are an oak-hater, don't even bother with this one, it's uncontroversially oaky. But I like a little oak, and the eddies of earth flavor it can add to the fruit. That said, most of the fruit at this point seems to be on the nose, not so much in the palate. With barbecue-sauce-coated slow-roasted prime rib, it was a fantastic combination inasmuch as the spicy, woody meat helped throw the wine's fruit into relief.

Sinskey Merlot

Robert Sinskey Vineyards
Merlot
Los Carneros
Napa, California, USA2004
14.3%
$23.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Violets, raspberry, vanilla
Body: Medium
Front: Cassis, pomegranate, cardamom
Middle: Fennel, roasted fig, bitter chocolate
Back: Espresso, a hint of greenness, like kiwi
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

As is probably obvious from the stacked flavor description above, I adore this wine. This is, to my young and inexperienced mind, what Merlot is all about. It's different from, if perhaps inspired by, some Bordeaux classics, the Merlot-heavy ones, that I also like. But it has structure and complexity; the latter exhibited in a mixture on the palate that eludes clear description but that's a mashup of the tastes listed above, and a few more, too. I didn't decant this one, but let it unwind slowly out of the bottle.

Sinskey uses organically grown grapes to make this wine, and all of their wines (I confess to having spent an hour, perhaps more, at the winery) are subtle and complex. Okay, the cardamom taste is subtle, but really, how do you make any kind of cardamom taste out of grapes or oak? Not to say that this kind of alchemy is the foundation, origin, or soul of winemaking--probably, like all aesthetic endeavors, there's no foundation per se. But it's enchanting, that's for sure. Go out and buy a bunch of this, and then send me some.

Longoria Chardonnay

Richard Longoria Wines
Chardonnay
Cuvée Diana
Santa Rita Hills
Lompoc, California, USA2004
15.4%
$37.99 -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Medium golden yellow
Nose: Hibiscus, orange, caramel
Body: Medium to full
Front: Almonds
Middle: Ripe orange peel
Back: Oak, cinnamon
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I don't get to drink five-year-old chardonnay every day, so this was a treat. It's quite French; not as oak-forward nor as acid-forward as the two California options tend to be, but an elegant balance of the two. Don't drink it too cold, or you'll lose most of the complexity of the wine. If you doubt that southern California can compete with Napa and Sonoma, try this wine.

I drank it with a sweet Italian sausage and penne dish that was the heated creation of my distracted and overworked brain, and it was a delightful accompaniment. The Norah Jones I paired it with musically was a little too self-conscious for the wine, I think -- something like the Lyle Lovett of It's Not Big It's Large would have been a better match for this grown-up, but not unplayful, wine.

Howard Park Scotsdale Shiraz

Howard Park Wines
Scotsdale
Great Southern
Shiraz
Cowaramup, Western Australia2004
14.5%
$35.99 -- Chapel Hill, NC

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Cheese fondue, pepper
Body: Full
Front: Currant
Middle: Cream, chocolate
Back: Blueberry, tannins, aromatic herbs
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This is an enormous, rich, stunning wine. It's got nice acid with the curranty flavors, backed by a real creaminess and a hint of spiciness. This may be the peak of this vintage; it flattens out after about an hour open. But with about twenty minutes of air, it's spectacular: serve to friends!

This evening's accompaniment was Kat Edmonson on the stereo, and grilled rack of lamb with grilled yellow squash and a dried cherry red wine sauce on the plate. The lamb brings out the spice in the wine, even as the wine brings out the richness in the food--a happy pairing.

Domini Douro

Jose Maria da Fonseca Vinhos
Domini
Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz
Douro
Azeitao, Portugal2004
14%
$10.99 -- COSTCO, Austin, TX

Color: Medium to dark garnet (unfiltered)
Nose: Blackberry, pie crust, cigar
Body: Full
Front: Blackberry
Middle: Tobacco
Back: Gravelly tannins, rosemary
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It's a bargain. Mature, structured, but rich, Domini made my evening. It packs a wallop, without being hot. It's tannic, for sure, but the fruit makes for an intriguing balance. Check this post for a fantastic food pairing which I only wish I'd been able to experience tonight. This evening, this wine was paired with reading contracts; it's almost impossible to pair a wine with contract-reading.

Martin Syrah

Martin Family Vineyards
Syrah
Estate
Dry Creek ValleyHealdsburg, California, USA2004
14.2%
$16.00 -- Chapel Hill, NC

Color: Opaque purple
Nose: Sour blackberries, with a delightful stank on 'em
Body: Full
Front: Tangy blackberry
Middle: Plum
Back: Roasted coffee beans, cinderblock tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a delightful wine and an incredible deal. I can't help but think that it's on the edge of its useful life, so drink it now! But the nose is simply enchanting, and the rest of it packs a punch across the dark fruity range.

I'm breaking the rules tonight, by not having any food to take this wine with, but it's been a hell of a week, so I cut myself loose. I'm listening to Jace Everett's record RED REVELATIONS, and this briary, out-of-control wine goes particularly well with his track "One of Them."

Vino100 Lakeway Wine Dinner

Lakeway, Texas is a resort town--in the middle of Texas. On the cliffs by a spectacular (if currently a bit depleted) lake, a few miles outside of sexy Austin, neighborhoods cluster like children at a zoo on the edges of the puma cage. It's gorgeous country, and an interesting mix of folks.

Many of those folks are wine lovers, and in Lakeway, they can afford some good wine. Still, even rich folks like a good bargain, and habitual wine drinkers demand great variety in style and price. My friend Gloria runs a joint called Vino100 that sells just such a variety--reasonably priced wines across a range of styles, and a small selection of exceptional stuff (the Hall Cabernet, BV's excellent Tapestry, and Anderson's Conn Valley Prologue have all graced its shelves, along with some great sparkling wines).

Last night I attended my first-ever wine dinner, attended by some entertaining people. Gloria likes wine, and she's a trained engineer, but her real gift seems to be forging relations among people--the ambience her presence generates fosters wine drinking, chatting, losing track of time.

The food was prepared by the extremely French Chef Cesidio. The wine host was a local connoisseur, Scott Grant, and we stuck to Bordeaux. The pacing, hardware, pairings, decor, music, and sheer abundance of wine were splendid. I was running a bit late, having struggled for fifteen minutes trying to put on my blue velvet jacket, but it was worth it, and an anchovy pizzetta and a kir, made with French cider and homemade cassis syrup, were waiting for me as I rushed to the table.

My flashbacks to the old town quarter of Nice were quickly superseded by an excellent appetizer of pulled pork and pear with crouton. A little French and a little Texan, and a lot good, paired with this:

Chateau Bonnet
Bordeaux
Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle
Entre-Deux-Mers, France
2006
12%
$12.00

Color: Gold
Nose: Floral, peach
Body: Medium
Front: Apple
Middle: Cream
Back: A little bread and butter
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This opened up after about half an hour, and was quite good with the food. It's nicely balanced between crisp acidity and a more bready heft, but it's not a particularly multilayered wine. It is a wine of action, not contemplation.

There wasn't long to contemplate anyway, because beef and fish rained upon the table, along with two more wines. I had the cod brandade, a delightful ramekin full of fish and potato with the tiniest amount of curry sauce, or something spicy, on top. It went best, perhaps, with this:

Chateau La Graviere
Bordeaux
Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle
Gironne, France
2005
12%
$22

Color: Coppery gold
Nose: Sherry, with a hint of apricot
Body: Medium to full
Front: Tangy fruit
Middle: Apricot and cream
Back: Sawdust and pie
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This wine tasted like it was out on the edges of turning bad, but after a few minutes of tasting, the sherryness yielded to a quite interesting complex of fruit, candy, and minerality. I'm curious to try more white from this area of Bordeaux, as these two seemed both cheap and interesting.

More expensive and interesting was the

Chateau Greysac
Medoc
Cru Bourgeois Superieure
Bordeaux, France
2004
13%
$24.00

Color: Rich red
Nose: Violets and nutmeg
Body: Medium
Front: Cinnamon
Middle: Leather
Back: Violets, inner tube
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This was a delightful wine; not quite as good with my cod as, I'll bet, with the beef bourgogne on the other side of the table. But it was more contemplative.

We finished with a glass of Talijancich White Solero, 10 yr., that was a stunning Aussie mash of apricot, caramel, raisins, and honey, nicely balanced. Before I left, I caught a glimpse of Chef pounding a glass of the Solero--it's damn fine stuff.

For a first-wine-dinner-attendee like me, it was perfect; the company and the wine were a joy, and there was no snobbiness, no ranking. Cheers to Chef and Gloria!

Rutherford Hill Merlot

Rutherford Hill Winery
Merlot
Rutherford, California2004
14.2%
$21.99 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX

Color: Medium-dark ruby
Nose: Olive, violets
Body: Medium to full
Front: Plum
Middle: Vanilla, dust
Back: Cherry, wood
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It's interesting, but of course not revelatory of my character, that I have only reviewed one Merlot. Tonight that all changes. There will be 100 percent more Merlot reviewed here at Caveat Emptyer. THERE WILL BE MERLOT.

This is not Sideways. But I confess that what I like about this Merlot is that it's like a Cabernet--big, rich, multilayered, with the signature of Rutherford in its texture. My father introduced me to it at Daisy Mae's steak restaurant, in Tucson, Arizona, long ago, and we have had many a delightful bean-laden meal there with it.

I think it'll go with lots of food, like the paprika chicken and French onion soup on tonight's docket, and almost any kind of music short of Rage Against the Machine, which should always be listened to with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc.