Terredora Dipaolo Falanghina

Terredora Dipaolo Viticoltori
Falaghina
Irpinia DOC
Montefesco, Campagnia, Italy
2008
13%
$10.49 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: A fire in the apple-flavored graham cracker factory
Body: Medium to full
Front: Meyer lemon
Middle: Apple-flavored tobacco
Back: Cedar, thyme
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Fake cork

A couple of days ago I lamented the passing of a 2007 Falanghina. Remembering that there was some more of this, one of my absolute favorite Italian whites, around, I reckoned I'd better move it up on the ol' Asmodeus food chain.

I'm glad I did: not only is it damn tasty, but it's palpably right on the edge of oblivion. The maderization is coming through (how could it be, since this isn't aged in oak?), flattening out the acid and the focused apple (I've had an 09 of this wine, and it's applerific); but it's still delightful, full, complex, and balanced. To folks who like fruity American whites, the nose on this will be almost alienating, reminiscent of a red wine.

Indeed, I'd expect Americans to divide seriously on whether or not they like this wine, because it doesn't play ball the way they're used to. But with food--even spicy food; I'm having it with cherry peppers, a spicy cheese (Oregonzola!), and paprika-laden chorizo--it's fantastic.

Just don't wait too long before you drink it!

Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

Siduri Wines
Santa Lucia Highlands
Pinot Noir
Central Coast
Santa Rosa, California, U.S.A.
2008
14.1%
$29.98 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Strawberry jam, cherry, a little herb
Body: Medium
Front: Strawberry-cherry cola
Middle: Raspberry, banana
Back: A little sage, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This is a tasty, food-friendly, almost too-easy-drinking wine. It's rich, but not terrifically complex or deep or long on the palate. It was splendid paired with roasted chicken and a little avocado and tomato salad. Again, perhaps a tad overpriced for what you get, as is often the case with Pinot--I might try a circa-$20 Central Otago wine before this one, in the future. I don't think this is made to age particularly long, given the tannin structure, but it wouldn't hurt to wait another year, I reckon, before drinking it.

Lange Reserve Pinot Noir

Lange Winery

Pinot Noir

Reserve
Willamette Valley
Dundee, Oregon, U.S.A.
2008
13.5%
$30.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium reddish purple
Nose: Cherry candy, a hint of earth and smoke, a spritz of bug spray

Body: Medium
Front: Cherry

Middle: A hint of cassis, cinnamon, spiciness

Back: Cherry again, creamy this time

Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

This is a tremendously elegant wine--so elegant that I think I didn't really notice much flavor in the tail end of it. It's smooth and balanced, and perhaps in a year or two might become more intense. But at the moment, this is exactly the sort of bottle that has me scratching my head at Pinot Noir prices. For my palate, it's not as interesting as the Innocent Bystander, yet costs twice as much. Had I bought two bottles of this (as I did with the Pessagno), I'd put the other in the closet and wait for a couple of years before opening it. I'm not sure time does heal all things, but I reckon in this case it can't hurt.

After a long hiatus thanks to work, Asmodeus is BACK. I'd have dropped four wines on you today instead of three, if only the Falanghina hadn't been maderized. Believe it: four years may be too long for Falanghina.

Margerum M5

Margerum Wine Company
M5
Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Counoise, Cinsault
Santa Barbara County
Los Olivos, California, U.S.A.
2008
14.1%
$19.94 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium reddish purple
Nose: Cherry candy, orange, green apple, a hint of paprika

Body: Medium
Front: Cherry, plum, orange peel

Middle: Watermelon Jolly RancherTM

Back: Caramel espresso, soft tannins

Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

Finally, I think, I'm starting to see the core differences between French and California Rhone-style blends. The brightness of the mid-palate fruit in this wine--whose structure and flavors are otherwise very similar to a CDP--is distinctive. The tannins aren't as cultured as the CDP, either, but they're not the brutish ones of Napa Valley.

I've had earlier vintages of this wine and also liked them; it's much better with some decanting, as the fruit comes out more. Crucially, this wine is fantastic with a range of foods.

(Tonight I'm alternating sips of this with tastes of day 2 of Soos Creek's Sundance Merlot, which is fantastic, but which I won't review here because I want it all.)

A note on the notable, and to me suspect, glass ceiling of 90 points on Cellartracker for this wine: I fear that its questionable longevity is making folks rate it lower than their taste experience justifies, especially if they're drinking it with food. Cellartracker folks--knock me down if I'm wrong!

Vineyard Block Estate Block 939 Cabernet

Vineyard Block Estate
Block 939
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Calistoga, California, U.S.A.
2008
14.2%
$19.94 -- Spec's Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Deep reddish purple
Nose: Plums, stewed black cherry, orange, a little heat
Body: Full
Front: Plum, vanilla
Middle: Cherry, coffee, orange rind
Back: Chocolate, soft tannins
Burns clean?: No -- almost immediate headache after glass 2.
Cap: Recycled cork

This is pretty good for negociant wine. It's full on the palate, but not too cloying; great with grilled rack of lamb and almost as good with a tomato-basil soup. There's a lot of oak, so if you like that, you will be thrilled--there's not much spice or weird earthy flavor, which I prefer, but it's a hedonistic wine at a slightly less-than-indulgent price.

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo

Feudi di San Gregorio
Greco di Tufo
Campagna 
Serpico, Avellino, Italy
2008
13%
$15.49 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Grass, pear, honey
Body: Medium to full
Front: Lemony pear
Middle: Apple, banana
Back: White pepper, honey
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Wow. This is a phenomenal wine, to my taste. Acid up front, interesting fruit and secondary flavors battling it out in the middle, and a long, long finish with minerals and honeysuckle. This might be on the old side for Greco, at three years, but it's still seductive, like a good conversation. There may be a lot more of these appearing on the ol' Caveat Emptyer. I think would be fantastic with many, many things, especially seafood.

Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Marie-Antoinette

J.J. Vincent
Marie-Antoinette
Pouilly-Fuissé
Chardonnay
Fuissé, Burgundy, France
2008
13%
$15.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Smoke, lemon, wet earth
Body: Light
Front: Salty peach
Middle: Lemony tang
Back: Oak, wet rocks
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I'm on a quest for a cheap Costco star Chardonnay, and it's not going well. So far, the Kumeu River and the Gary Farrell (which I see I did not review, but will next time!) are leading the pack, but they're not really cheap at around $20. Come through for me, France!

This is close. The nose isn't exciting, but on the palate, the wine is balanced, smooth, and has some nice layers of acid, fruit, and oak. It's great with the impromptu antipasto I'm having: cornichons, cherry peppers, a little salami, and mustard.

Angela Pinot Noir

Clawson Creek
Angela
Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley
Carlton, Oregon, U.S.A.
2008
13%
$29.98 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Strawberry jam, cherry
Body: Medium
Front: Raspberry
Middle: Strawberry-cherry cola
Back: A little Slim Jim, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Very
Cap: Cork

The taste of this wine reminds me a bit of the Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir. It's bright, but not just fruity, with a couple of layers, and has a lovely texture. The price is, under the circumstances, a little shocking even at Costco (though after reading the hype about this wine, I'm curious why it is available at Costco; perhaps there was a large harvest in 2008).

But it certainly goes well with food -- grilled lamb chops, roasted beets, and sauteed beet greens with onions, dried red pepper, and garlic. After it was open three hours, it gained weight and interest, particularly when paired with some late-night sorpressata. And it comes in a gigantic bottle with a huge punt, so you can wear it on your head when you are finished drinking it.

Stonewall Albariño

Pedernales Cellars
Albariño
Stonewall, Texas, USA
2008
14.2%
$17.99 -- Pedernales Cellars, Stonewall, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Pear, bandaid, verbena
Body: Medium
Front: Pear, apple
Middle: Butter, roasted green chili
Back: Oak
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Texas wine, finally! Okay, sure, the grapes are actually from California. (There's a horrific infection of Texas vines happening that is challenging winemakers here.) But both the winemaker and the philosophy at Pedernales are sound--make wine from grapes that thrive in the climate of Texas. I'll report more on this winery later, but for the moment, I'll say that the Albariño is delightful and good with a sharp cheese.

Elizabeth Spencer Sauvignon Blanc

Elizabeth Spencer Wines
Sauvignon Blanc
Mendocino
Ukiah, California, U.S.A
2008
11-14% (!)
$13.49 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Light dirty gold
Nose: Grapefruit, wood, honey
Body: Light to medium
Front: Kiwi
Middle: Apple, banana
Back: A little maderization, acetoney
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Fake cork

This, I suspect, was a lovely wine a year ago, but it's starting to go over the hill right now. It tastes better a little warmer, though, so don't follow (U.S.) custom in chilling it massively before serving it--a little bit is enough--and don't wait too long before you drink it. The mid-palate flavors are tasty; the apple is notably focused, which reminds me why I like this winemaker so much.

Sadly, I have no food pairing to report, except that it tastes good with almonds. The cupboard is bare. But good things are to come shortly. As the end of the year approaches, the wine begins to flow and the food to appear, copiously and experimentally, and this year will be no exception, as your favorite deity is my witness!

Note, 1/15/2011: Tried the 2009, and indeed, it's brighter and lacks the faint maderization. Bright acidity, good with cheese and such.

Charles Smith Eve Chardonnay

Charles Smith Wines
Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
Washington State
Mattawa, Washington, USA
2008
13.5%
$10.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Pear, wood, butter
Body: Medium
Front: Pear, apple
Middle: Buttery oak
Back: Lemon
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This is one of crazy Charles Smith's wines--always interesting, a little edgy. (One of the best video blog moments ever [~8:15] is when, while being interviewed by wine critic Gary Vaynerchuk, he unfolds his large pocket knife and puts it on the table.)

I'm a huge fan of Smith's K Syrah, and needed a little acidic contrast with the many reds I've been drinking lately. This wine had a lot of residual spritz, which I enjoyed, and a nice balance of flavors, though the oak was a little...chemically for me at first. On day 2 (I just re-capped it and put it in the fridge) it was really delightful.

Meiomi Pinot Noir

Belle Glos Wines
Pinot Noir (Meiomi)
Sonoma, Monterey, and Santa Barbara Counties
Rutherford, California, USA
2008
13.9%
$18.00 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium purpley red
Nose: Cherry, cranberry, bread pudding
Body: Medium to light
Front: Cherry
Middle: Baking spices, cranberry
Back: Strawberry, caramel
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

Until this had been open for half an hour, it was hot, acidic, and acetoney. So beware: it's a "cheap" pinot, but it's also not. It's been open now for six hours, and it's rich, layered, and fascinating. The mouthfeel is silky; it lunges into you like a Gerard Manley Hopkins stanza.

Most importantly, perhaps, it's good with food. I made a chicken and chorizo dish, with artichoke hearts, red onions, garlic, and red peppers. I knew I'd need something red, and a with little spice to go with it, but I wasn't sure what to pair with it and didn't feel like a syrah. So I tried a new edition of an old favorite, the 2007 Caravan (about which more in a moment) and this pinot.

At first, it was an even split. The Caravan brought out the tomato and the artichoke, which was delightful, and asserted its personality, too. But eventually, the Meiomi emerged triumphant; after it had opened up, chocolatey, bready, and cinnamony notes sang in combination with the paprika, chorizo, and caramelized elements of the dish. The management of the oak on this wine will please many, and the fruit is vibrant without getting bubble-gummy or lick-the-envelopey. Try it with pickles.

Back to the Caravan. This is one of my favorite wines. But I can't help but note a minor, yet important change to the back label. They used to credit the quotation there this way: "Adapted from Rumi"; now, it's more definitive: "The Rubiayat by Omar Khayyam." Both of these may be true, sort of.

Why sort of? Because Rumi came after Khayyam, and thus may have borrowed from him, or transformed him, or indeed, may not have, and the original attribution might have been pure fantasy. And yet, only sort of, because, fantasy or no, in this attempt to correct the "record"--an attempt which I would argue is out of touch with the Sufic mode of this ghazal--the labelists spelled "Rubaiyat" wrong. In the abstract, a wrong spelling means little. In the attempt to purify, it reminds us of the importance of imbalance over perfection: of passion and meaningfulness, over integrity. Look at the Meiomi: grapes from three different counties! But passion makes them sing harmoniously. Why credit and quote, Caravan, when you could sing it yourself?

That said, I hope that the Wappo tribe, from whose language "Meiomi" is taken, is getting some kickbacks on the profits from this wine, which I suspect to be the broad-market bottle from Belle Glos.

Chalone Sauvignon Blanc

Chalone Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc
Monterey County
Soledad, California, USA
2008
13.5%
$8.99 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX

Color: Pale straw with a tinge of green
Nose: Bread pudding
Body: Medium
Front: Butter
Middle: Orange peel, bread
Back: Apricot, cardboard
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

After a long hiatus, the Emptyer is back! I was out making money, faithful reader, and it has to last.

This is an interesting wine. I'm not sure I'd go so far as to say it's awesome, but it's very good with food, and it has a few distinct layers that will be interesting to many people. It's certainly American, with a butteriness (despite a kind of chalky mouthfeel, actually) and a bigness that overbalance the acidity, a bit. But I'm drinking it with Spanish chorizo and it's a good combination, refracting the flavors of the wine in ways different from when you drink it alone.

I think the price is right, and for many people it will be a bargain.

Bernardus Chardonnay

Bernardus Winery
Chardonnay
Monterey Country
Carmel Valley, California, USA
2008
14.2%
$17.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: Lemon cream pie
Body: Full
Front: Lemon, salt
Middle: Butter
Back: Oak, thyme
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is smooth stuff; it's easy to drink and good with food. There are few surprises in it; it's California big, and lacks the palatal nooks and crannies of, say, a French Chardonnay. Interestingly, it seems quite tasty with Cheshire and cheddar cheeses. I like the little greenness at the end, though that only seems to emerge when the glass warms up a bit, so you fast drinkers may not experience it.

L. Chatelain Chablis

Domaine L. Chatelain

Chablis
Chardonnay
Gran Vin de Bourgogne
Fontenay-pres-Chablis, Fance
2008
12.5%
$14.69 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Lovely pale straw
Nose: Lemony pear, salty minerality, perhaps a little pee
Body: Medium
Front: Honeysuckle
Middle: Cantaloupe, salty minerality
Back: Oak, orange peel
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Fake cork

It would appear that I've never reviewed a Chablis before -- odd. I like them; from the Burgundy region of France, the Grand Vins like this one are usually uncomplicated, well-balanced Chardonnays. (One of the best wines I've ever had was a premier cru Chablis.)

This is a nice wine: it's got some body, persistence, a saltiness and floral presence that I enjoy. It's a perfect, late-summer (uh, I hope it's late summer), not-terrifically alcoholic-so-it'll-go-with-food, many-folks-will-like-it sort of wine at a good price.

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir

Hamilton Russell Vineyards
Pinot Noir
Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
Walker Bay
Hermanus, S. Africa
2008
13.3%
$25.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Cherry cola, venison, mint, stewed orange
Body: Medium
Front: Dried cranberry, mint
Middle: Tart but creamy fizziness, lemon
Back: Olive, charred oak, tar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a damn strange wine, as the flavor descriptions above perhaps suggest. It's smoky, earthy, minty--loaded with personality. This is not a crowd-pleaser, though it would be really fun to see what a large group of not-everyday wine drinkers would make of it. I like it a lot. It has the lightness of body and the intensity of flavor of really good Pinot. The smokiness, a sort of minty smokiness, if that makes any kind of sense, is something I've experienced in South African reds before, so I suspect it has something to do with either terroir or the oak that they use. Whatever it is, this wine doesn't bore me, like so many Pinots do--if you like a little stank on it, give this a try.

Pellegrini Olivet Lane Pinot Noir

Pellegrini Family Vineyards
Olivet Lane Vineyard   
Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Santa Rosa, California, USA
2008
14.3%
$18.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Light garnet
Nose: Cherry, strawberry, Slim JimTM
Body: Medium
Front: Dry cherry, orange
Middle: Smoky honeysuckle, black currant
Back: Bacon, soft tannin
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

First off, this wine goes very well with food: tonight, a lettuce and tomato salad with a little stunning Pasolivo olive oil and balsamic, together with some Hole Foods brisket. The wine is rich, fruity but earthy, and well balanced. It's not a complete enchanter, as it's strong on the smoky flavors (doubtless a source of its partnership with the brisket) but...well--this is the second thing: Pinot Noir is hideously overpriced in the US, so to find one that is this good at a reasonable price is a delight.

Michel DuTour Pouilly-Fuisse "La Roche"

Michel DuTour
Pouilly-Fuisse
"La Roche"
Chardonnay
Montagny-Les-Beaune, France
2008
13%
$15.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dull medium gold
Nose: Orange peel, honey, lime
Body: Light to medium
Front: Pear
Middle: Honeydew, some minerality
Back: Lemon, oak
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

After an almost unforgivable hiatus, Caveat Emptyer is back. My return is with a whimper more than a bang, as this wine is pretty low-key. I hope I'm not the only one who generally feels French wines in the 10-30 dollar range are often not worth the money. Perhaps this one will become more interesting with time, and perhaps it'll stay in the background like it seems to right now. I'm usually an appreciator of subtle Chardonnays, so I hope I'm not just in the wrong mood! This one is more interesting with food, certainly--a little roasted almond, salty cheese, and cherries help it out.

Wild Rock Pinot Noir

Wild Rock Wine Company
Pinot Noir
Cupid's Arrow
Central Otago
Hastings, New Zealand
2008
13.5%
$18.98 -- Wine Trader, Lake Travis, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Strawberry, fish, smoke
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry
Middle: Strawberry cola

Back: Raspberry, Skittles, no tannins to speak of
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This one reminds me a lot of the Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir. It's bright but smoky, with a couple of layers, and at a decent price point for Pinot in general. There is a little third-stage candy-esque, raspberry thing that delivers on the finish, that is endearing, and makes it easy to drink. I'm hoping it will pair well with a chicken korma this evening; the low alcohol suggests a good pairing with food. It certainly goes well with the sunset!

Finca el Origen Torrontes

Bodegas y Viñedas La Esperanza
Finca el Origen
Torrontes
Reserva
Valle del Cafayate
Salta, Argentina
2008
14.0%
$9.45 -- H.E.B., Austin, TX

Color: Light  straw
Nose: Peach, lemon, pepper
Body: Medium
Front: Pineapple
Middle: Mild poblano, butterscotch
Back: Lemon, apricot rocks
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This is a great, cheap summer wine. Not much is going on in it--it's exuberant but short-lived, like a mosquito or a bluebonnet. It tastes better than either of those things, I bet. It's good cold, and tasty with grilled pork and a simple salad. There's something else in the nose, something a bit more acidic than peaches, that I can't quite place: help me, loyal triumvirate of readers, if you get a chance to taste this inexpensive wine.

Seldom have I stuck with a wine experimentation plan this long. But it has gotten interesting: I've found a number of curious varietals (this being one of them) and nothing with too much acetone flavor yet. My only fear now is that I need to try these varietals from different houses -- perhaps different continents -- to see if I can identify commonalities. I'm not sure I have what it takes to do that!