The Four Graces Pinot Noir

Black Family Vineyards
Pinot Noir 
Willamette Valley
McMinnville, Oregon, USA
2007
13.5%
$25.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX

Color: Medium strawberry
Nose: Strawberry, cherry, Spanish chorizo, black pepper, a little pig
Body: Medium
Front: Tart cherry
Middle: Creamy blackberry, peppermint, vanilla
Back: Soft tannins, thyme, mud
Burns clean?:
Cap: Fake cork  

This is more like it. Interesting, multilayered, not-just-fruity Pinot Noir at a price that I might be willing to pay. I'd guess this will get more interesting still with a year or two in the bottle, as the tannins and acids play well off each other on the palate. The result is a really smooth wine, exceedingly drinkable and elegant. It actually stood up to the chili I made tonight (following Emeril Lagasse's recipe, except for certain particular ingredients that it was ridiculous to attempt to obtain). I'm going to get another bottle or two of this, for certain.

Do not be scared by the little pig. It's just a little pig.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Chateau Raspail Gigondas

Chateau Raspail
Gigondas
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre
Gigondas, France
2007
15%
$16.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Deep purple
Nose: Plum and stewed blueberry, a hint of vanilla, beef jerky
Body: Full
Front: Plum, cherry
Middle: Anise, fresh-ground pepper
Back: Leather, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Sort of
Cap: Cork

First: Give this puppy air, unless you're drinking it a year from now at least. Well, okay. It's more complex than that. (And it's not actually a puppy.) If you like a charismatic, fruit-bomb, jammy, Fruit-Roll-Up sort of wine, open it and pour and share and git 'er done within the hour. If you want the more complex character to emerge--with earthy flavors, a little spice and a little meat--then wait on it.

This would taste good with anything with a little weight and a little pepper. With olives and salty cheese, the meatiness of the wine is enhanced. 

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Michael

Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Les Pierres

Sonoma-Cutrer
Chardonnay
Les Pierres
Sonoma Coast
Windsor, California, USA
2004
13.9%
$27.29 [~$38.00] -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Medium gold
Nose: Apple, lemon, bread
Body: Medium
Front: Apricot
Middle: Apple, butter
Back: Roasted fig, oak
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork

The nose on this wine is a little shy, which surprised me. I let it warm up to room temperature and it was still something of a wallflower. The palate is nicely balanced between the acidic dried fruitiness and stern oakiness. It didn't induce delight in me, I confess; there's a personality missing. But it's a serious wine--if you can find it at the price I managed to sneak away with it, then I'd say it's a good deal!
   
Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Kathy

Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Cabernet

Casa Lapostolle
Cuvée Alexandre
Cabernet Sauvignon
Apalta Vineyard
Colchagua Valley
Santa Cruz, Chile
2006
14.5%
$21.99 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Mushrooms, thyme, blackberry jam
Body: Full
Front: Black cherry
Middle: Plum, firm tannins
Back: Licorice, herbes de provence
Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

So far, this is my favorite Chilean wine. The second Cuvée Alexandre I ever had was described in my last post. It was the Merlot, and I liked it, though I think it did not move mountains and part seas for me. It was luscious but well-balanced, and went well with food. In fact, at times it kind of tasted like one of my favorite foods, bacon.

So what of the Cabernet? This wine is from the same year, same maker, same vineyard, costs the same, and has the same alcohol content as the Merlot. This is a true varietal test right here.

If you blinfolded me, I probably wouldn't have guessed that the Merlot was a Merlot--perhaps Malbec. And if you gave me this, I might say it was a Cab, but if you told me it was a Merlot I wouldn't be shocked. They're quite similar in terms of structure and the taste profile: a little fruit up front, some herby earthiness, then a little anise and interesting tannins towards the end. Indeed, the tannins are the biggest difference for me--these are classic Cabernet tannins, while the Merlot had odd, engaging, but chunky ones (and it wasn't in good shape on day two).

With the prime (actually 'choice,' but nicely roasted) rib tonight the herbiness of the wine really came out, which was a lovely effect.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Bridget

Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Merlot

Casa Lapostolle
Cuvée Alexandre
Merlot, Carmenère
Apalta Vineyard
Colchagua Valley
Santa Cruz, Chile
2006
14.5%
$21.99 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Coffee, blueberry, sage
Body: Medium to full
Front: Dried cherries
Middle: Spicy raspberry bacon, sautéed button mushrooms
Back: Acorns, tingly tannins, licorice
Burns clean?: Mostly

Cap: Cork

The first Cuvee Alexandre I had was in the Palmer House hotel in Chicago. It was the Cabernet, and I really enjoyed it. It was luscious but well-balanced, a nice complement to the luscious (though admittedly a little baroque) main lobby of that hotel (pictured here).

The Merlot has the same general profile: big, fruity and spicy, but with a strong earthy component that balances out the oak and the fruit. It has grip and would go well with many different kinds of food. It's only been open a half hour, so I can't be sure this effect is consistent, but the tannins are fascinating--like pop rocks, a little bit, fine but crumbly, lending a nice brightness to the texture.

And bacon will almost always win me over.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Bridget

Justin Cabernet

Justin Vineyards & Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Paso Robles
Paso Robles, California, USA
2007
13.5%
$19.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark reddish-purple
Nose: Mushrooms, vanilla, car seat, cherry
Body: Medium
Front: Plum
Middle: Espresso, cherry cola, soft tannins
Back: Licorice, herbes de provence, graphite
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This wine makes me happy. It's not a mind-bender, but it's not overoaked and it will go well with food. I'm not sure I'd put it up against a grilled steak; the body is a little lighter than some. It is certainly a California wine, in the sense that it's bold and fruity. But it's one of the more structured Cabernets from Paso that I've had, and certainly among those with the most interesting palates at this price from that region.

Who likes it: Steve
Who hates it: Bridget

Franciscan Cabernet

Franciscan Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Oakville Estate
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, USA
2004
14.1%
$19.99 -- Franciscan Winery, St. Helena, CA

Color: Dark garnet, a very faint hint of peach at the edge
Nose: Coffee, sour plum, raspberry
Body: Full
Front: Plum, roasted fig
Middle: Broccoli, espresso
Back: Licorice, easygoing tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I'm astonished to find that I haven't reviewed a Franciscan wine before. I've bought at least three cases of them; have examples of the 2003 and 2004 Cabs carefully stored away; am a fan of their "Cuvee Sauvage" naturally fermented Chardonnay; and like the Magnificat blend a lot. They are owned by the same folks that own Mount Veeder winery of whose wine I have spoken highly--so what happened?

I don't know. But I'm more distressed to find that I've consumed all but two bottles of my stash of the 2004 Cabernet. I remember thinking when I first tried it at the winery a few years ago that it had potential to be tasty as all get-out in a few years, and lo, I was correct. So why didn't I wait?

Because you can't wait forever. Life is short, my friends, and writing this blog entry will do good work if it reminds me of that. This is a French-style wine, which I suspect has a good dose of Merlot and a little Cab Franc in it. It has a rich (but not overripe) dark fruitiness balanced by distinct (and pleasant, to me) vegetal flavors, herbs, and coffee. Great with food, it will make a wide variety of drinkers happy. If you find some, save it for me.

A query for my readers: How the hell did this winery get the franciscan.com domain? I realize St. Francis committed to a life of poverty, but surely bogarting the franciscan.com domain--especially were it *not* to sell anything--would have been consistent with that apostolic intent?

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay

Ferrari-Carano Winery
Chardonnay
Alexander Valley
Healdsburg, California, USA
2007
13.9%
$19.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Pineapples and cream, fig
Body: Medium to full
Front: Pineapple
Middle: Mango butter, white pepper
Back: Apple, oak
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

I'm a fan of other Ferrari-Carano wines, so I thought I'd give this one a shot. It's a rich, substantial wine, big like many California Chardonnays, but the balance of tropical fruit and buttery oak is nice. There is a little sparkly, spicy thing that happens at the end of the mid-palate that is notable and delightful. The structure of the wine is interesting, too; it's almost like it unfolds twice: acid-to-butteryness, then repeat.

This was good with the baked garlic chicken tonight, but might be better even with a white sauce or a baked fish, I would guess. It's a rainy night, so the weight of the wine makes a nice combination with the cool and damp.
  
Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Kathy

Domaine Fond Croze Côtes du Rhône

Domaine Fond Croze
Côtes du Rhône
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre
Cuvée Confidence
St. Roman de Malegarde, France
2006
14%
$15.99 -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Meaty ripe blackberry pepper pie
Body: Medium to full
Front: Sparkly cherry
Middle: Espresso crayon milk
Back: Blueberry, tannins like fine Corinthian leather...
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is Côtes du Rhône. The bright, fruity punch up front, the spicy, earthy edges and dark fruit haunted palate, but not too heavy, not too brooding. This is such a good bottle of wine at this price that I'm kind of astonished and I wish I'd bought four of them.

It was tasty on its own and then with the pepperoni pizza I put down on this working night. Now I'm outside, listening to the wind (and the damn chimes next door) and the coyotes and it's still a delight, though it has evolved, since being opened hours ago, to a more earthy palate.

A reflection on the past few links I've made to vignerons: French winemakers--hire bloggers from the U.S. to write your English-language presentation for your websites! We will work for booze. We will pitch your stuff with passion and good grammar. We will enhance your SEO!

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Domaine Besson Givry 1er Cru "Le Petit Prétan"

Domaine Xavier Besson
Pinot Noir
Givry 1er Cru
Le Petit Prétan
Givry, Burgundy, France
2007
13%
$28.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Orange sherbet, cinnamon, cream, clove?
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry
Middle: Cream, roasted almonds
Back: Chocolate shavings, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is far too young, I would guess, to be drunk at this point. But I wanted a Pinot, I wanted a good one, and I wanted one that hadn't closed down. I also wanted one cheap--and yes, unfortunately, this is cheap for French Burgundy. Thanks, collectors. Way to ruin everything for the rest of us.

But! I didn't do this review until it had been open and sat overnight -- perhaps open for about six hours altogether. It certainly got more soft, more approachable, and richer tasting overnight; it was nicely fruity but kind of reserved yesterday, without much on the nose and a kind of hollow taste. But now (and taken with some nice Sorpressata on a cool Texas evening) it's showing much more interesting flavors. Give it 5 more years, maybe even 7 to 10, and it should be lovely.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Alamosa Texacaia

Alamosa Wine Cellars
Texacaia

Sangiovese, Syrah, Tempranillo
Hill Country
Bend, Texas, USA
2004
13.1%
$18.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium peachy garnet

Nose: Ripe plum, fruitcake, overripe strawberries

Body: Medium

Front: Super-tart cherry--like Pixie StixTM

Middle: Blueberry yogurt

Back: Topsoil

Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

Texas wine is big. That's appropriate. But in many cases, it is not necessarily good. One of the complaints I've had before--one that will be tested in the next few months, because at some point Asmodeus embarks upon a Texas wine tour--is the mismatch between the varietals I see bottled in stores and the ones you'd think would thrive in Texas. It's hot here, people. So: more Syrah, Zinfandel, perhaps Tempranillo, and never Chardonnay or Pinot Noir.

Alamosa Wine Cellars focuses on warm-weather varietals, which is a good thing. Its bottles are also quite reasonably priced for quality Texas reds. Now, I'm a proven non-fan of Sangiovese, and I think it shows here. But I also wonder about the release policy on these wines; 5 years I think may be pushing it. It's peachy at the edges, and has a bit of cloy on the palate.

I'll say this, though: it's not overoaked. It's just that a certain complexity is missing. There's a strong cherry tartness that is engaging, but is a bit too much for me. But if you like a little tang on your wine, or are simply curious about Texas wines, load this up and see what you think!

Who likes it: Mignon
Who hates it: Michael

B. Levet Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche

Bernard Levet

Côte-Rôtie
La Chavaroche
Syrah
Ampuis, Rhone, France
2002
12.5%
$41.99 [$63] -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Medium peachy garnet

Nose: Cat pee, blackberry jam, salmon

Body: Medium

Front: Tangy cherry

Middle: Blueberry pie, prune

Back: Cafe au lait, thyme, velvety tannins

Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

The nose on this wine will startle. But the first hint that it's a complex dealio should be that it doesn't taste like cat pee. And I think we've all tasted cat pee--right, Mignon?

This is an elegant wine: it's not in your face, it's a contemplative number. It takes time and it takes focus. It was good with the Shake-n-Bake pork chops tonight, but not so great with the applesauce. (A remainder of the Gaunot Chardonnay was perfect with that.) But on its own, it's plenty of a taste extravaganza to keep you interested. Wait a minute: can you be extremely elegant? Isn't elegance the ability to be entrancing without extremes? It's like that, for those with an immunity to cat pee.

Rumor has it that the 2002 vintage was not good, on the whole, for this region. Still, my guess is that, given the balance in this glass, this wine will be really good in about four years, perhaps even a little longer. As the cat pee yields to the plum and the levels of spice and earth raise ever so slightly on the palate, it may be like being dragged face-down through the fields of deliciousness by the horses of delight.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

François Gaunoux Meursault Les Clos de Tavaux

François Gaunoux

Meursault
Le Clos de Tavaux Monopole
Chardonnay
Côte-d'Or, Burgundy, France
2003
13.5%
$44.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Medium golden, beautiful color
Nose: Salty butter, bacon, cod, thyme

Body: Medium

Front: Salty roasted pear

Middle: Buttered apple, hazelnut

Back: Oatmeal cookie

Burns clean?: Yes

Cap: Cork

The first four times I put my nose in this one, I smelled different things. I put three of them in the description above, before I gave up. Suffice it to say, it's a fascinating experience before you taste it--beautiful in color and intriguing on the nostril.

There's plenty of oak in this, but it's elegantly balanced. As the wine opens and warms up, the butteryness moves earlier in the palate. I would drink this wine anytime--assuming I can ever find it again. I'm not entirely sure where I got it, to tell the whole truth.

I'm drinking it tonight while watching a beautiful Texas sunset, to the lulling sounds of commuters arriving home from work, which they shouldn't have had, as it is Martin Luther King, Jr. Day, an important holiday if ever there was one. Probably I'm going to pair it up with some Marcona almonds here in a few minutes.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Steve

Whitehall Lane Merlot

Whitehall Lane Winery

Merlot

Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, USA
2006
14.5%
$19.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium to dark garnet
Nose: Honey, thyme, plum
Body: Medium

Front: Hi-C

Middle: RC ColaTM, fig

Back: Soft tannins, cafe au lait

Burns clean?: No, unfortunately! But it was worth it.

Cap: Cork

After a string of quasi-disappointments, this wine's making me happy. The nose is delightful, and I don't hate Hi-C in wine the way some other folks seem to--as long as the taste develops into something else comparatively quickly. When it was open an hour, if I were tasting it blind, I think I'd have guessed it was a cheap California pinot noir--that's how fabricated-fruity it was. But it's getting more layers, as described in the tasting notes above, as it opens up, which is lovely. And the color is stunning.

Usually I talk about the food I eat with the wines, but as my workload gets heavier, the leftovers begin to gather about the house like guests on the third day. So it's not as interesting to talk about the food, which is forced into duty, and the wines tend to be powerful reds that can overcome leftover stew and roast beef.

Even my musical world has grown a bit constricted. I'm listening to Jack Johnson tonight; he comforts me when I have a ton of work to do, for some reason--I suppose surf music is supposed to do that! Coincidentally, however, it's not bad with the Merlot: laid-back, but occasionally accusatory, if not a tad self-righteous.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Steve

Chateau Ste Michelle Cold Creek Cabernet

Chateau Ste. Michelle
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cold Creek Vineyard
Columbia Valley
Woodinville, Washington, USA
2006
14.1%
$19.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Dark purpley garnet
Nose: Sage, blackberry jam, Dr. PepperTM
Body: Medium
Front: Espresso, black tea
Middle: Black currant cream
Back: Licorice, leather, firm tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This one's going to be a bit tannic for most folks I reckon, unless it's given a long time to open up, or a year or two in the cellar. I do think it'll age, but I'm going to leave it open for about four hours tonight as I drink it and see. This is my service to the world.

If, however, you like the gritty and earthy Cabernets, you might like this one without any cellaring. The pizza I had tonight wasn't up to the challenge of this wine, which looks sweet but is a bit of a bully at this point.

Note: Day 2, the nose opened up to more fruit, but the palate, while acquiring a little blueberry, didn't really more complex or rich. With a year more, perhaps it would flower?

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Coppola Director's Cut Cabernet

Francis Coppola Presents
Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma
Alexander Valley
Geyserville, California, USA
2006
14.1%
$23.99 -- HEB, Austin, TX

Color: Dark peachy garnet
Nose: Blackberry paste, espresso, thyme
Body: Medium
Front: Plum
Middle: Chocolate, ripe dark cherry, peach
Back: SkittlesTM, soft tannins, Nerf football
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Right away I need to say that the SkittlesTM flavor I'm getting may be a product of synergy with the cheese I'm eating this late Friday evening: Beecher's Flagship Reserve. But it's fascinating, and indicative, I think, of the way this wine will integrate well with food. I'll be overrevelatory here: I haven't had great reactions to Coppola wines before, so this one is a surprise.

All in all, I think this is a good value, because it'll please many different palates, the oak isn't overdone, and it's going to pair well with a range of foods.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

St. Clement Chardonnay

St. Clement
Chardonnay
Carneros
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, USA
2007
14.8%
$13.99 -- HEB, Austin, TX

Color: Light gold
Nose: Orange peel, roasted peach, chipotle butter, clove
Body: Medium
Front: Banana bread pudding
Middle: Butter, scotch (not butterscotch!)
Back: Cilantro, sage, cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Take two, on yet another frigid south Texas night. I enjoyed visiting St. Clement's tasting room a couple of years ago on a trip to Napa, though the Chardonnay didn't make a deep impression on me at the time. Still, the price seemed too good to be skipped this afternoon, with a roasted chicken dinner and iceberg lettuce salad ahead of me. I did not know about the busted pipes at home, when I got this, so we will mentally put ourselves back in those happy hours to cleanse our emotional palate before tasting this. Ahem. Here we go.

The nose on this wine is intriguing, especially for a white--I might mistake it for a really well-made Chilean red, completely blind. The palate is soft, round, yet with a decent amount of the spice you get in the nose. There is plenty of oak up front and in the middle, which helps with the roundness; there's not a whole lot of fruit or acidity--it might not age well. But it's an interesting Chardonnay for this price, and will pair well with food.
 
Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Kathy

Jadot Savigny-les-Beaunes Blanc

Louis Jadot 
Savigny-les-Beaune
White Burgundy
Chardonnay
Beaune, France  
2002
13.5%
$19.10 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Deep straw, a hint of peach
Nose: Tar, oak, sage, peppermint
Body: Medium
Front: Acetone, oak
Middle: Burnt apricot
Back: Cardboard, lemon
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

There's a distinct possibility that this wine is over the hill. I'm having flashbacks to The Great Maderized Wine Tasting. It's a bit more interesting than those debacles, but I feel like I don't have enough interesting flavors here to justify more than a caveat emptor.

Then again, I returned from a long trip today to find at least two pipes had burst and I'm losing water rapidly. So perhaps it is my palate, overinfluenced by my mind, that is out of tune, not the wine. I think I'll open something else, just to be sure...
 
Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Rose-Anne

Vega Escal Priorat

Viticultors del Priorat (for Reserva de la Tierra)Vega Escal
Priorat
Carignan, Grenache, Shiraz
Priorat, Spain
2005
14.5%
$15.10 -- Wine Library, Springfield, NJ

Color: Medium to deep red with purple tinge
Nose: Raspberry, orange rind, a little heat, chocolate pudding
Body: Medium
Front: Raspberry
Middle: Espresso, a hint of milk chocolate shavings
Back: Soft tannins, cardboard
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork

There would appear to be some sort of cultish thing going on with Priorat wine, judging from the production history of this wine. It's okay; I'm not floored, but if you like Spanish reds you may find this wine very good. It doesn't go well with Stereolab's music, but it stood up to the roast beef leftovers with cheesy potatoes and green bean casserole.
 
Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Deerfield Merlot Cuvee

Deerfield Ranch Winery
Merlot Cuvee
North Coast
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Malbec, Cabernet Franc
Kenwood, California, USA
2004
14.2%
$25.00 -- Vino 100, Lakeway, TX

Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Oak, cinnamon cherry pie, licorice, cat pee
Body: Medium
Front: Plum bacon
Middle: Espresso, blackberry, oak
Back: Sticky tannins, sage
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork

For those who've never had plum bacon, this will be an interesting wine. It's plentifully oaked; if you are an oak-hater, don't even bother with this one, it's uncontroversially oaky. But I like a little oak, and the eddies of earth flavor it can add to the fruit. That said, most of the fruit at this point seems to be on the nose, not so much in the palate. I had this with barbecue-sauce-coated slow-roasted prime rib, so it was a fantastic combination inasmuch as the spicy, woody meat helped throw the wine's fruit into relief.
 
Who likes it: Mignon
Who hates it: Kathy

Erath Pinot Noir Estate Selection

Erath Vineyards
Pinot Noir
Estate Selection
Dundee Hills
Dundee, Oregon, USA
2006
13.5%
$23.99 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Medium strawberry with a touch of purple
Nose: Cranberries, strawberries, bacon, cinnamon
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry
Middle: Peach, pie crust
Back: Sage, graphite
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Give this one some air, and you will be much rewarded. It's a fascinating bottle of wine, with fruit flavors and more earthy, herby-spicy ones mixing together. When it's just opened, the nose is berryish and the palate kind of flat. But after it's been open for an hour and a half, things get much more interesting. This is the best American Pinot I've had for this price; really, for under $30.

The Erath paired well with the baked chicken, garlic, and onion I made for dinner, and with the music: Dan Cohen's brand-new release, Shhhh, a collection of laid-back, astonishingly skilled guitar instrumentals that Cohen both wrote and performs.

Note, 13 January 2010: I tried the Erath Prince Hill Pinot, also 2006, and it was also great. It was different; a bit more herbiness and different sorts of red fruit. It deserves its own review--someday: I think that it's really going to benefit from a few years of cellaring, which will bring up the volume on some of the earthy flavors that haunt its palate.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Steve

Chateau Potelle Cougar Pass

Chateau Potelle
Cougar Pass
Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot
Paso Robles and Napa Valley, California, USA
2005
13.5%
$15.99 -- Wine Pro, Paducah, KY

Color: Deep strawberry
Nose: Herbes de provence, sour cherries, 
Body: Medium to full
Front: Cherry, raspberry
Middle: Cream, thyme
Back: Soft tannins, graham cracker
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It's my last night in frozen Kentucky for awhile, and this was an excellent closing bottle. It's festive, with dark fruits and herbiness, but it's also serious in body and texture, a perfect accompaniment to a steak-and-potatoes dinner.

The blend isn't dissimilar from Paraduxx, and it's an intriguing combination of fruitiness with more austere ingredients. When this was first opened, for example, it had fascinating mushroominess goin' on, with a good whack of currant behind it. It's not young, for a Zin-based blend, so there's some good design behind it.

Potelle's home, I think, is on Mt. Veeder in Napa, so this is a satellite product for them, but it's a good one. The label claims that the fruit is from both Paso and Napa, which is the first time I've encountered such a "freak so fair." Terroir devotees will be appalled, I suppose, so serve it to them blind.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Mignon

Red Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon

Red Diamond Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Paterson, Washington, USA
2006
13.5%
$9.99 -- Wine Pro, Paducah, KY

Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Oak, oak, raspberr, a smidgen of vanilla
Body: Full
Front: Roasted raspberry
Middle: Chocolate
Back: Oak jam
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Good with food, the Red Diamond will make you happy if you're a Zin drinker. There's a lot of fruit and a hint of smoke, with oak predominating. I think it's not a cellaring candidate; the tannins are barely there--it's a youthful wine meant to be drunk young, I reckon. But it is a good deal at this price if you're looking for a stout, fruit-driven wine. I found it particularly tasty in combination with my slightly spicy spaghetti and meatballs in marinara; the oak was tamed a bit and the spicy, earthy notes came out more.

Who likes it: Michael
Who hates it: Kathy

Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva

Segura Viudas
Cava
Brut Reserva
Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo 
Torrelavit, Spain
NV
11.5%
$9.99 -- Wine Pro, Paducah, KY

Color: Pale gold
Nose: Pineapple, apple
Body: Light to medium
Front: Lemon
Middle: Bread, caramel
Back: Lime, straw
Burns clean?: A little headache; go easy on it
Cap: Cork

A delightful acidity and just enough baked bread to make me happy. This is a great bargain and a good one for mixing with orange juice, cranberry juice, cassis, and so forth. It's a cold day, and a celebratory one, and this is a perfect match for it. For those planning New Years' celebrations, and wary of spending too much on Champagne, this is an excellent choice, I can say from experience.

Who likes it: Rose-Anne
Who hates it: Mignon

Bret Brother Pouilly-Loché

Bret Brothers
Pouilly-Loché
Climat "La Colonge" 
Chardonnay
Burgundy
Vinzelles, France
2005
13.5%
$38.00 -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Pale gold
Nose: Graham cracker, apple, mint, wet bark
Body: Medium
Front: Bread and butter
Middle: Cod brandade
Back: Lime, oak
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork

This is a haunting, many-layered wine. I realize that I've dropped a peculiar description into the middle of the palate profile above, but the middle is quite short, while the front and end of the palate are robust and long.  It's not hollow, by any means, but it rewards a little attention to the wine.

I'm having it with my usual smoky spicy almonds and a little bit of cheese, but I think it will actually go well with a wide range of foods.  The soundtrack tonight is President Barack Obama talking about the recent passing by the Senate of the health care bill, and it's as good an accompaniment as I can imagine.

Who likes it: Kathy
Who hates it: Mignon