Viñedos y Bodegas Pablo
Gran Viu
Selección
Grenache, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan (or maybe Syrah?)
Cariñena DO
Almonacid de la Sierra, Zaragoza, Spain
2002
14.5%
$24.99 -- Spec's Liquors, Austin, TX
Color: Obscure ruby
Nose: Stewed fruit, tar, mushrooms, cherry smoke
Body: Full
Front: Creamy roasted plum
Middle: Black pepper, black cherry
Back: Coffee grounds, rocks, dusty tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This wine has length, depth, and sweetness, plus all of the herby, leathery stuff for which ageable Spanish wines are known. This was phenomenal with a chicken-in-píperade purée and spinach and mushroom quiche. It might be hard to find this wine, but it's a well-priced example of what this region and producer can do, and much worth trying!
Showing posts with label 2002. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2002. Show all posts
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Ornellaia Le Volte
Tenuta dell'Ornellaia
Le Volte
Toscana
Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot
Bolgheri, Italy
2006
13.5%
$23.39 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX
Color: Dark ruby with tiny brown tinge
Nose: Cherry, olive, rose, wet earth; mint and raspberry after a couple of hours
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry tea, or possibly cherry-flavored tobacco smoke
Middle: Licorice, black olive, coffee bean
Back: Thyme, soft but graphitic tannins
Burns clean?: Immaculately
Cap: Cork
This is an entry-level red for the famous Ornellaia brand. It's an odd blend, in my experience; this one is delightfully complex, with a beautiful nose. I'm no fan of Sangiovese in general, but the layers in this wine are seductive and ceaselessly changing. I've had the 2005, which was also delightful, but a little age seems to have benefited this. The texture is largely smooth, with some tannins still noticeable at the end, and it's light-bodied but complex-flavored.
Now, here is a thing: I think this is sort of a wine-geek wine. You'll find it on restaurant menus, I know, and if it's really old or really young, my guess is, it's a good call. But even this, at 5 years old, really only came into its own after a couple of hours open. So make 'em decant it, or aerate it, or something, just in case. And though it's made from varietals with legendary presence, the combination of them is quite fascinating and subtle. Some wines taste the same, each time you take a sip (within the first couple of hours after they're open, anyway). This one changes, and next to the fascinating aromas of the wine, it's the best part of the show.
Le Volte
Toscana
Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot
Bolgheri, Italy
2006
13.5%
$23.39 -- Twin Liquors, Bee Cave, TX
Color: Dark ruby with tiny brown tinge
Nose: Cherry, olive, rose, wet earth; mint and raspberry after a couple of hours
Body: Medium
Front: Cherry tea, or possibly cherry-flavored tobacco smoke
Middle: Licorice, black olive, coffee bean
Back: Thyme, soft but graphitic tannins
Burns clean?: Immaculately
Cap: Cork
This is an entry-level red for the famous Ornellaia brand. It's an odd blend, in my experience; this one is delightfully complex, with a beautiful nose. I'm no fan of Sangiovese in general, but the layers in this wine are seductive and ceaselessly changing. I've had the 2005, which was also delightful, but a little age seems to have benefited this. The texture is largely smooth, with some tannins still noticeable at the end, and it's light-bodied but complex-flavored.
Now, here is a thing: I think this is sort of a wine-geek wine. You'll find it on restaurant menus, I know, and if it's really old or really young, my guess is, it's a good call. But even this, at 5 years old, really only came into its own after a couple of hours open. So make 'em decant it, or aerate it, or something, just in case. And though it's made from varietals with legendary presence, the combination of them is quite fascinating and subtle. Some wines taste the same, each time you take a sip (within the first couple of hours after they're open, anyway). This one changes, and next to the fascinating aromas of the wine, it's the best part of the show.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Robert Sinskey Cabernet Franc
Robert Sinskey Vineyards
Cabernet Franc
Vandal Vineyard
Los Carneros
Napa, California, USA
2002
13.5%
$20.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX
Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Chipotle-cedar chocolate covered cherry
Body: Full
Front: Sour cherry
Middle: Licorice, raspberry
Back: Cigar wrapper, coffee, assertive tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This is only the second Cab Franc I've reviewed, despite my affection for this varietal. There's something elusive and haunting about it. People talk about the soft tannins, flowerdy smell, and about the chocolateyness of it, but that ain't it for me. I've had tongue-wrappingly tannic ones, and dark fruit dominated ones with no sign of mocha. I find it a moving target, when it's the principal grape in the blend.
If there's not a smidgen of Merlot in this, I'll be shocked. 2002: it's eight years old at this point, and still tannic, and no sign of brown at the edges. Try it with chocolate, or something lightly spicy, and I think it'll drink easier. But for me this is a wine for drinking when you want to think about things, including the weirdness of taste, as an experience. It's far from easy drinking, but far from unrewarding, too.
Cabernet Franc
Vandal Vineyard
Los Carneros
Napa, California, USA
2002
13.5%
$20.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX
Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Chipotle-cedar chocolate covered cherry
Body: Full
Front: Sour cherry
Middle: Licorice, raspberry
Back: Cigar wrapper, coffee, assertive tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This is only the second Cab Franc I've reviewed, despite my affection for this varietal. There's something elusive and haunting about it. People talk about the soft tannins, flowerdy smell, and about the chocolateyness of it, but that ain't it for me. I've had tongue-wrappingly tannic ones, and dark fruit dominated ones with no sign of mocha. I find it a moving target, when it's the principal grape in the blend.
If there's not a smidgen of Merlot in this, I'll be shocked. 2002: it's eight years old at this point, and still tannic, and no sign of brown at the edges. Try it with chocolate, or something lightly spicy, and I think it'll drink easier. But for me this is a wine for drinking when you want to think about things, including the weirdness of taste, as an experience. It's far from easy drinking, but far from unrewarding, too.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz Mountains
Martin Ray Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Santa Cruz Mountains
Sonoma
Santa Rosa, California, USA
2002
14.4%
$24.99 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Deep red
Nose: Mint, cherries, tar
Body: Full
Front: Cherries
Middle: Raspberries, chocolate, licorice
Back: Mint, cream, cigar wrapper
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
A delightful wine. Balanced and smooth on the palate. There are tannins enough to suggest it can still age longer, and plenty of acid to balance them. The cherry and raspberry flavors beautifully set up the meatier, chocolatier flavors in the mid-palate, and it pairs elegantly with grilled food of any kind.
{Note, in 2014: That is the kind of thing I write when I don't want anyone else to know how good a wine is--at least, as far as I can taste. This wine was heavenly. It poked through the veil of universe and smiled into my little well. If you own some, please, please send it to me.}
Cabernet Sauvignon
Santa Cruz Mountains
Sonoma
Santa Rosa, California, USA
2002
14.4%
$24.99 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Deep red
Nose: Mint, cherries, tar
Body: Full
Front: Cherries
Middle: Raspberries, chocolate, licorice
Back: Mint, cream, cigar wrapper
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
A delightful wine. Balanced and smooth on the palate. There are tannins enough to suggest it can still age longer, and plenty of acid to balance them. The cherry and raspberry flavors beautifully set up the meatier, chocolatier flavors in the mid-palate, and it pairs elegantly with grilled food of any kind.
{Note, in 2014: That is the kind of thing I write when I don't want anyone else to know how good a wine is--at least, as far as I can taste. This wine was heavenly. It poked through the veil of universe and smiled into my little well. If you own some, please, please send it to me.}
Friday, June 4, 2010
Silverado Merlot
Silverado Vineyards
Merlot
Napa Valley
Napa, California, USA
2002
14.5%
$27.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX
Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Cherry, orange, anis, a touch of heat
Body: Medium
Front: Strawberry
Middle: Chocolate, graham cracker
Back: Leather, oak, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
Merlot! I often love it. I visited Silverado Vineyards recently and enjoyed all of the Merlots they poured. They aren't super-complex, but they are charming, and have a nice acidity to balance the usual Napa bigness. And so perhaps unsurprisingly: I'm eating a tomato and avocado with lime and oil and vinegar salady sort of thing, and the 2002 pairs elegantly.
Note: The 2005 is really delightful: it has a healthy dose of mint on the nose and a bit on the palate. This is no coincidence, as there used to be eucalyptus trees around the vineyards from which the grapes came. They were removed after the '05 vintage, however, which I consider a most unfortunate decision. Boo! But...choose your poison, wisely.
Merlot
Napa Valley
Napa, California, USA
2002
14.5%
$27.99 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX
Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Cherry, orange, anis, a touch of heat
Body: Medium
Front: Strawberry
Middle: Chocolate, graham cracker
Back: Leather, oak, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
Merlot! I often love it. I visited Silverado Vineyards recently and enjoyed all of the Merlots they poured. They aren't super-complex, but they are charming, and have a nice acidity to balance the usual Napa bigness. And so perhaps unsurprisingly: I'm eating a tomato and avocado with lime and oil and vinegar salady sort of thing, and the 2002 pairs elegantly.
Note: The 2005 is really delightful: it has a healthy dose of mint on the nose and a bit on the palate. This is no coincidence, as there used to be eucalyptus trees around the vineyards from which the grapes came. They were removed after the '05 vintage, however, which I consider a most unfortunate decision. Boo! But...choose your poison, wisely.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Eyrie Chardonnay
The Eyrie Vineyards
Chardonnay
Willamette Valley
Estate Grown
McMinnville, Oregon, USA
2002
13.0%
$20.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX
Color: Medium gold
Nose: Grapefruit, chorizo, a hint of poo
Body: Medium
Front: Lemon Now or Laters
Middle: Caramel, graham cracker
Back: Cedar, stone
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
In a raging downpour, I drink some Chardonnay. This stuff is fascinating. True to the label, it's more Frenchy than New World. The poo on the nose really took me by surprise, but it's distinctive--maybe with another year in the bottle (I can never figure out when to drink Chardonnays that age well) that will become something...earthy!
Chardonnay
Willamette Valley
Estate Grown
McMinnville, Oregon, USA
2002
13.0%
$20.99 -- Spec's, Austin, TX
Color: Medium gold
Nose: Grapefruit, chorizo, a hint of poo
Body: Medium
Front: Lemon Now or Laters
Middle: Caramel, graham cracker
Back: Cedar, stone
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
In a raging downpour, I drink some Chardonnay. This stuff is fascinating. True to the label, it's more Frenchy than New World. The poo on the nose really took me by surprise, but it's distinctive--maybe with another year in the bottle (I can never figure out when to drink Chardonnays that age well) that will become something...earthy!
Monday, January 18, 2010
B. Levet Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche
Bernard Levet
The nose on this wine will startle. But the first hint that it's a complex dealio should be that it doesn't taste like cat pee. And I think we've all tasted cat pee.
This is an elegant wine: it's not in your face, it's a contemplative number. It takes time and it takes focus. It was good with Shake-n-Bake pork chops, but not so great with the applesauce. (A remainder of the Gaunot Chardonnay was perfect with that.) But on its own, it's plenty of a taste extravaganza to keep you interested. Wait a minute: can you be extremely elegant? Isn't elegance the ability to be entrancing without extremes? It's like that, for those with an immunity to cat pee.
Rumor has it that the 2002 vintage was not good, on the whole, for this region. Still, my guess is that, given the balance in this glass, this wine will be really good in about four years, perhaps even a little longer. As the cat pee yields to the plum and the levels of spice and earth raise ever so slightly on the palate, it may be like being dragged face-down through the fields of deliciousness by the horses of delight.
Côte-Rôtie
La Chavaroche
Syrah
Ampuis, Rhone, France
2002
12.5%
$41.99 [$63] -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Medium peachy garnet
La Chavaroche
Syrah
Ampuis, Rhone, France
2002
12.5%
$41.99 [$63] -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Medium peachy garnet
Nose: Cat pee, blackberry jam, salmon
Body: Medium
Front: Tangy cherry
Middle: Blueberry pie, prune
Back: Cafe au lait, thyme, velvety tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This is an elegant wine: it's not in your face, it's a contemplative number. It takes time and it takes focus. It was good with Shake-n-Bake pork chops, but not so great with the applesauce. (A remainder of the Gaunot Chardonnay was perfect with that.) But on its own, it's plenty of a taste extravaganza to keep you interested. Wait a minute: can you be extremely elegant? Isn't elegance the ability to be entrancing without extremes? It's like that, for those with an immunity to cat pee.
Rumor has it that the 2002 vintage was not good, on the whole, for this region. Still, my guess is that, given the balance in this glass, this wine will be really good in about four years, perhaps even a little longer. As the cat pee yields to the plum and the levels of spice and earth raise ever so slightly on the palate, it may be like being dragged face-down through the fields of deliciousness by the horses of delight.
Monday, January 11, 2010
Jadot Savigny-les-Beaunes Blanc
Louis Jadot
Savigny-les-Beaune
White Burgundy
Chardonnay
Beaune, France
2002
13.5%
$19.10 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX
Color: Deep straw, a hint of peach
Nose: Tar, oak, sage, peppermint
Body: Medium
Front: Acetone, oak
Middle: Burnt apricot
Back: Cardboard, lemon
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
There's a distinct possibility that this wine is over the hill. I'm having flashbacks to The Great Maderized Wine Tasting. It's a bit more interesting than those debacles, but I feel like I don't have enough interesting flavors here to justify more than a caveat emptor.
Then again, I returned from a long trip today to find at least two pipes had burst and I'm losing water rapidly. So perhaps it is my palate, overinfluenced by my mind, that is out of tune, not the wine. I think I'll open something else, just to be sure...
Savigny-les-Beaune
White Burgundy
Chardonnay
Beaune, France
2002
13.5%
$19.10 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX
Color: Deep straw, a hint of peach
Nose: Tar, oak, sage, peppermint
Body: Medium
Front: Acetone, oak
Middle: Burnt apricot
Back: Cardboard, lemon
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
There's a distinct possibility that this wine is over the hill. I'm having flashbacks to The Great Maderized Wine Tasting. It's a bit more interesting than those debacles, but I feel like I don't have enough interesting flavors here to justify more than a caveat emptor.
Then again, I returned from a long trip today to find at least two pipes had burst and I'm losing water rapidly. So perhaps it is my palate, overinfluenced by my mind, that is out of tune, not the wine. I think I'll open something else, just to be sure...
Sunday, February 3, 2008
Martin Pinot Noir
Martin Family Vineyards
Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Sonoma, California, USA
2002
13.9%
$23.99 -- Carolina Wine Merchants, Chapel Hill, NC
Color: None too dark red with a tinge of peach
Nose: Strawberry, clover, and cinnamon
Body: Medium to light
Front: Cassis, cedar
Middle: Plum, pepper
Back: Sprouts, vanilla
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
Just when you think it's going to be State Fair cotton candy like lots of boring, headache-inducing Pinot Noirs, this thing takes a right turn up into Sonoma and gets more like a trip to the library.
Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley
Sonoma, California, USA
2002
13.9%
$23.99 -- Carolina Wine Merchants, Chapel Hill, NC
Color: None too dark red with a tinge of peach
Nose: Strawberry, clover, and cinnamon
Body: Medium to light
Front: Cassis, cedar
Middle: Plum, pepper
Back: Sprouts, vanilla
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
Just when you think it's going to be State Fair cotton candy like lots of boring, headache-inducing Pinot Noirs, this thing takes a right turn up into Sonoma and gets more like a trip to the library.
Thursday, December 20, 2007
Marques de Arienzo Crianza
Marques de Arienzo
Crianza
Tempranillo
Rioja, Spain
2002
13%
$11.99 -- Wine Pro, Paducah, KY
Color: Medium to light red
Nose: Sawdusty caramely strawberry
Body: Medium to thin
Front: Cherry or strawberry
Middle: Vanillaish and spicy--not tannic, peppery
Back: Woody and then tangy
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
The nose on this wine is excellent. A little more fruity than I expect in a Spanish wine, but nicely balanced and great with the pot roast we had tonight. You don't expect it, 'cause of the thinness of the body, but it's got spine. The spiciness is lovely and the tannins are soft.
Crianza
Tempranillo
Rioja, Spain
2002
13%
$11.99 -- Wine Pro, Paducah, KY
Color: Medium to light red
Nose: Sawdusty caramely strawberry
Body: Medium to thin
Front: Cherry or strawberry
Middle: Vanillaish and spicy--not tannic, peppery
Back: Woody and then tangy
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
The nose on this wine is excellent. A little more fruity than I expect in a Spanish wine, but nicely balanced and great with the pot roast we had tonight. You don't expect it, 'cause of the thinness of the body, but it's got spine. The spiciness is lovely and the tannins are soft.
Friday, November 2, 2007
Dogridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
DogRidge Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon DV3 (single-vineyard)
McLaren Vale, Australia
2002
15%
$24 – Parker and Otis, Durham, NC
Color: Deep ruby red
Nose: Spicy and plummy, a little cherry
Body: Full
Front: Plum and raspberry
Middle: Spicy
Back: Woody (oak), a little graphite
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
This is a nice cabernet, stands up to all kinds of food and great with cheese. It collapses pretty quickly though, after a couple of hours--I've had three bottles and none has been worth anything the next day--so it's great for serving to guests. (It's not the screw cap that's to blame; the Shiraz from this vintage is extraordinary and keeps for a day just fine.) It's got a little heat, but not as much as the listed percentage would seem to suggest.
Cabernet Sauvignon DV3 (single-vineyard)
McLaren Vale, Australia
2002
15%
$24 – Parker and Otis, Durham, NC
Color: Deep ruby red
Nose: Spicy and plummy, a little cherry
Body: Full
Front: Plum and raspberry
Middle: Spicy
Back: Woody (oak), a little graphite
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
This is a nice cabernet, stands up to all kinds of food and great with cheese. It collapses pretty quickly though, after a couple of hours--I've had three bottles and none has been worth anything the next day--so it's great for serving to guests. (It's not the screw cap that's to blame; the Shiraz from this vintage is extraordinary and keeps for a day just fine.) It's got a little heat, but not as much as the listed percentage would seem to suggest.
Thursday, November 1, 2007
Fife Syrah
Oct. 24, 2007
Fife
Syrah
Mendocino
2002
14.4%
About $14 (on sale) – Weaver St. Market, Chapel Hill, NC
Color: A dark, but not obscure, ruby red
Nose: Blackberry, maybe a little orange (not quite hot, but a little zesty)
Body: Medium bodied; for a Syrah, especially, not dense
Front: More blackberries, some inner tube. Yes, I said inner tube.
Middle: Still dark fruit. A little spice, almost like pop rocks. Yes, I said pop rocks. After being open awhile, starts to get a little more earthy
Back: Doesn’t develop much at the end; perhaps a little grassy; texturally dusty, which is nice after the fruit.
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
I am still waiting for the promised chocolatey taste. Maybe I shouldn’t be eating cheese with it. But let it sit for awhile before you taste it. Even then, its structure never really gets more than 2 layers deep.
Fife
Syrah
Mendocino
2002
14.4%
About $14 (on sale) – Weaver St. Market, Chapel Hill, NC
Color: A dark, but not obscure, ruby red
Nose: Blackberry, maybe a little orange (not quite hot, but a little zesty)
Body: Medium bodied; for a Syrah, especially, not dense
Front: More blackberries, some inner tube. Yes, I said inner tube.
Middle: Still dark fruit. A little spice, almost like pop rocks. Yes, I said pop rocks. After being open awhile, starts to get a little more earthy
Back: Doesn’t develop much at the end; perhaps a little grassy; texturally dusty, which is nice after the fruit.
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
I am still waiting for the promised chocolatey taste. Maybe I shouldn’t be eating cheese with it. But let it sit for awhile before you taste it. Even then, its structure never really gets more than 2 layers deep.
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