Thursday, October 29, 2009

Chapillon Cuvee Harmonie

R.E. 3145-Z
Cuvee Harmonie
Petit Verdot, Tannat

Aragon, Spain
2006
14%
$8.00 -- Costco, Austin, TX

Color: Deep red with purple tinge
Nose: Sour fruit, compost, pool float
Body: Medium
Front: Cassis
Middle: Cilantro, chocolate covered raspberry
Back: A smidgen of orange peel, fine tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Plastic cork

This is a mysterious wine. What house made it? Where exactly in Aragon does it come from? Why doesn't it have any official denominations? The link in above is to the blog of a person whom I think is the winemaker; his Frenchness makes some sense of the blend. But the rest is a mystery I hope my three, or perhaps four, readers will illuminate for me because I am lazy.

The wine is tasty. Despite the acrobatics of combining two grapes that Americans rarely drink, or want to know that they're drinking if they do, the terroir kind of takes the limelight anyway. It's a Spanish red: gritty, tangy fruity, leathery. I confess it's got a bit of Madiran goin' on, probably an effect of the Tannat; it occurs to me that if you like Zinfandel, you might enjoy this as an entry to European wines. There appears to be, by the way, a teeny bit of residual carbonation in it...look for little tiny bubbles at the edge...

Rombauer Carneros Merlot

Rombauer Vineyards
Merlot

Carneros
St. Helena, California, USA
2006
14.4%
$35.00 -- ALC, Austin, TX

Color: Medium to deep garnet
Nose: Raspberry, spice, cocoa
Body: Medium to Full
Front: Ripe raspberry
Middle: Sweet basil
Back: Chocolate, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

The flavors in this wine are stunning, but it's the structure that's so impressive. Get some and drink it. It will disappoint few. No, never mind. Shun it. Drive down the price. Send me bottles that you disdain to drink because you saw Sideways, dammit, and you know that truly deep-feeling Western subjects favor Pinot Noir and never drink Merlot.*

I had this one with a classic Cabernet meal: seared steak, garlic mashed potatoes, blue cheese-dressed salad. It stood up to it like a sophomore English major fighting for a B+ instead of a B, and as so often happens in that case, it triumphed. And this was a well-marbled steak, so unlike the sophomore's, this was a real victory.

* Wasn't that a Merlot that Miles ended up drinking, in ecstasy, at the end...? Just sayin'.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Cain Cuvée

Cain Vineyard & Winery
Cain Cuv
ée
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot
NV6
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, USA
14.5%
$23.44 -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Medium to deep strawberry, a tinge of purple edge
Nose: Burnt raspberries
Body: Medium to Full
Front: Strawberry
Middle: Dried cherry, mint
Back: Coffee, soft tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This has the Napa Valley mark on it, to be sure, but it's a more restrained, Frenchy sort of style. That said, it isn't all leather and cigar smoke--it's fruits and herbs. It needs air, and wouldn't suffer from a year or two more in the bottle (stored in the dark at responsible temperature and humidity, of course). The mintiness only emerged after I'd decanted it for an hour, and helped balance out the palate. It was tasty with the grilled filet mignon and tossed salad with avocado that I painstakingly prepared this evening, instead of doing my work.

NB to the NV: This wine is made up from two different vintages, the 2006 and 2005.

Stephan Ridge Red Wine

Stephan Vineyards
Stephan Ridge
Syrah, Cabernet
Paso Robles, California

2000
14.6%
$19.99 -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Dark garnet, browning at the edges
Nose: Plum
Body: Full
Front: Roasted figs
Middle: Chocolate
Back: A little heat, cedar
Burns clean?: Hard to say; I only managed one glass
Cap: Cork

This wine caught my attention because I had the L'Aventure Optimus and nearly cried. Apparently I was so impaired by affection that I didn't write a blog entry on it. That will be corrected. At any rate, this is made by the same French dude, out in the boonies of Paso Robles, who made the awesome Optimus. It's a blend that I've been proven to hate, and it's nine years old, which, given that the winery was fairly new at that time, ought to mean it's past its prime.

It may be. But if you like a sweet, beefy wine, this will make you happy. Surprisingly, there's still a bit of heat on the end of the palate, but the rest of the way it's a round, rich wine. It's not the Optimus, but then, I suspect that it's getting a bit intense and perhaps unbalanced with age, and favoring the roasted figgy end of the spectrum.

Note: I drank the 2001 tonight.  This one's a little less past prime, but still too sweet for me.  But it's much more reserved; chocolate, cranberries on the nose, and raspberry compote and mocha on the palate, with something weirdly spicy in there, too.  A bit brown at the edges, though, so it's getting to the end of its tether.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Prieure Roch Vosne-Romanee Les Clous

Domaine Prieure-Roch
Les Clous
Pinot Noir
Vosne-Romanee

Nuit-Saint-Georges, France
2000
11.5 or 12.5% (front and back labels disagree)
$48.99 [$68.99] -- Grapevine Market, Austin, TX

Color: Light, smoky strawberry peach
Nose: Strawberry, darker fruit, wet gravel, sour [something vegetal]
Body: Light
Front: Rose water, tire iron
Middle: Sour cherry, licorice
Back: Graphite, cedar, thyme
Burns clean?: Perfectly
Cap: Cork

An urging from a dear relative a few days ago sent me to the Grapevine Market, where eighty people on their lunch breaks were loading up carts with vast numbers of bottles of (sometimes) fabulous wine. This location is closing down, apparently, so they're selling off wines at a big discount. Thus it was that I was able to obtain my first, and possibly last, taste of real French Pinot Noir, from the relatively new winery of Domaine Prieure-Roch.

The color of this wine is stunning; it's very light, and in the glass it's like a peachy sunburst, almost going to clear at the edges. I can't quite describe the nose. A quick whiff and it's like most pinots, but less juicy fruity--then you stick your nose in the glass and way more interesting layers of things hit you. The palate is equally difficult to capture, though that's partly because I drink so few pinots. The tannins are incredibly soft, and I really like the sour and spicy mixture of flavors on top of a delightful mineral bed.

Here's what I'd say about this one: don't drink it if you are in a hurry. Don't drink it if your mind is set to accounting, or multitasking, or catching-up, or getting-ahead modes. It won't demand your attention, like this wine will, but it will reward your patience and attention. Also: the brownness in the color may well be evidence that it's moving past its peak--it is hard to find information about Prieure-Roch wines online (I've linked the most useful thing I found to the title above), but it seems equally possible, from the taste, that we are nowhere near its evolutionary end. It is a blend of grapes from several vineyards and, I think, not the top-of-the-line stuff from this house.

Having not done a lot of Pinot pairing, I'm staying safe with slow-cooked chicken, onion, and garlic, and roasted yaller potatoes tonight. Also maybe an avocado. And a Texas sunset, part of which reflects the color of this wine much better than my prose.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Howard Park Scotsdale Shiraz

Howard Park Wines
Scotsdale
Great Southern
Shiraz

Cowaramup, Western Australia
2004
14.5%
$35.99 -- Chapel Hill, NC

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Cheese fondue, pepper
Body: Full
Front: Currant
Middle: Cream, chocolate
Back: Blueberry, tannins, aromatic herbs
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This is an enormous, rich, stunning wine. It's got nice acid with the curranty flavors, backed by a real creaminess and a hint of spiciness. This may be the peak of this vintage; it flattens out after about an hour open. But with about twenty minutes of air, it's spectacular: serve to friends!

This evening's accompaniment was Kat Edmonson on the stereo, and grilled rack of lamb with grilled yellow squash and a dried cherry red wine sauce on the plate. The lamb brings out the spice in the wine, even as the wine brings out the richness in the food--a happy pairing.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Terra Valentine Cabernet

Terra Valentine
Cabernet Sauvignon
Spring Mountain District
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California, USA
2005
14.9%
$33.99 -- COSTCO, Austin, TX

Color: Dark strawberry
Nose: Chocolate, plum
Body: Full
Front: Cassis
Middle: Sparkledy cherries
Back: Tannins, eucalyptus, cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is an intense Cabernet. I'm trying it after only a half hour of decanting, so perhaps there's more fruit in the bottle. If so, I will update later. But the old-world flavors are prominent at this point, including the minty tastes that are one of the things I really like in some Napa Cabernets (and McLaren Vale reds, too). This would be good with cheese and meat, though my phone-in dinner has not yet arrived, so I may be completely wrong on that.

Hmm. It is increasingly appearing that I should have waited half an hour before writing this blog entry. Moral: Timing is everything.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Domini Douro

Jose Maria da Fonseca Vinhos
Domini
Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz
Douro
Azeitao, Portugal
2004
14%
$10.99 -- COSTCO, Austin, TX

Color: Medium to dark garnet (unfiltered)
Nose: Blackberry, pie crust, cigar
Body: Full
Front: Blackberry
Middle: Tobacco
Back: Gravelly tannins, rosemary
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It's a bargain. Mature, structured, but rich, Domini made my evening. It packs a wallop, without being hot. It's tannic, for sure, but the fruit makes for an intriguing balance. Check this post for a fantastic food pairing which I only wish I'd been able to experience tonight. This evening, this wine was paired with reading contracts; it's almost impossible to pair a wine with contract-reading.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

J. Bookwalter Foreshadow Cabernet

J. Bookwalter
Foreshadow
Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Syrah
Columbia Valley
Richland, Washington, USA
2006
14.8%
$23.89 -- COSTCO, Austin, TX

Color: Medium to dark garnet
Nose: Burned fruit pie
Body: Full
Front: French fruit soup, espresso
Middle: Vanilla, soft tannins, mesquite
Back: Cinnamon, thyme
Burns clean?: Yes, mostly
Cap: Cork

A lush wine, for a lush evening, with bats flying around and a steak on the grill; avocadoes and tomatoes resting lazily on romaine and walnut oil and aged balsamic. I've been picky about the Washington wines I've been drinking, and it's paying off bigtime.

This is a whopper of a wine in all ways, with so many flavor things happening that I can't quite figure it out (as is no doubt evident from the lame-ass descriptions above). It doesn't have a clear structure, but like some good Australian shirazes with that trait, it doesn't suffer from it much. Warning: if you have something else to focus on tonight, don't start into this Realist novel of a wine!

Speaking of caveats, this wine usually goes for closer to $40, so I've tagged it accordingly. Long live CostCo.

Château Brun St.-Émilion

Château Brun
Saint-Émilion
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Bordeaux, France2005
13%
$15.00 -- Vino 100, Lakeway, TX

Color: Medium to dark raspberry
Nose: Leather, tobacco
Body: Medium
Front: Raspberry
Middle: Cream, oak
Back: Graphitic tannins, hint of tobacco
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

Another 2005 Bordeaux that I'm plowing through in quest of the extraordinary ones everybody keeps talking about. This one was a delightful gift from Gloria at Vino 100 in Lakeway, so the price I sort of guessed on. It made a good accompaniment to some barbecued chicken and corn last night. It's not a huge wine, so don't make it take on seriously fatty meats. Pairs well with Kat Edmonson, musically, with the mixture of her canny voice and the mellow, fat sounds of her band on the album Take to the Sky.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Sage Veedercrest

Sage Vineyards
Veedercrest
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Napa Valley
Calistoga, California, USA2005
15.2%
$22.99 -- COSTCO, Austin, TX

Color: Dark red with a purple tinge
Nose: Ripe blackberry, smoked salmon, wet mulch
Body: Medium to full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Pomegranate, hints of mocha, some tannins
Back: Cilantro, wood, soft tannins
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork

This is a simple, dense bordeaux-style blend (Cab-heavy) from the Mt. Veeder area. At the Costco price, it's a damn good deal. I shouldn't be saying this on the web; I can't imagine that, given this vineyard has only 21 acres, there are bajillions of cases of this out there. It was good with a manchego and garlic crackers appetizer, and just as good with steak and grilled zucchini.

A word on Mt. Veeder area wines, particularly Cabernets: they aren't really for everybody. I find them delightfully briary; that is, blackberry tasty combined with challenging green flavors, sometimes spiny, sometimes herb-o-licious. So, if you like classic Spanish Riojas, you might enjoy Mt. Veeder-derived wines. But if you like Australian colossal fruit, or bright Zins, this would not be the first Cabernet-based fine wine I'd try. It might save you some tongue-shaving.

Monday, September 7, 2009

Finca Resalso

Bodegas Emilio Moro
Finca Resalso
TempranilloRibera del Duero
Valladolid, Spain
2007
14.5%
$9.99 -- COSTCO, Austin, TX

Color: Dark red
Nose: Ripe cherry flambee, graham cracker
Body: Medium to full
Front: Cherries
Middle: Cream, cilantro
Back: Animal crackers, soft tannins
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork

This is another good deal from Spain. Interesting, multilayered, and bright. This will pair well with a range of foods, I think; it's got a solid body. No music tonight, and no food: it's labor day, which for me seems to have meant laboring all day. But as a midnight snack, with only the sound of the wind as accompaniment, it's delightful.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Luzon Jumilla

Bodegas Luzon
Jumilla
Monastrell, Syrah
Jumilla, Spain2007
14%
$6.89 -- COSTCO, Austin, TX

Color: Dark red with a slight purple tinge
Nose: Raspberry and tobacco
Body: Medium
Front: Pepper
Middle: Dark cherry
Back: Some sort of spice...thyme? Oregano?
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a great bottle of wine for this price. Not sure how it'll age, as the tannins are very soft, but it's fruity yet earthy, powerful yet structured. It's good with the olives and the cold leftover steak on my plate this evening, but I think any sort of light food it'd be great for, and would be a super hot-weather red wine. It's not a powerhouse wine, but it's a delightful surprise!

Vincent Saincrit Bordeaux

Germain-Saincrit Vignerons
Grand vin de Bordeaux
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Bordeaux
Berson, Gironde, France2005
13%
$8.69 -- COSTCO, Austin, TX

Color: Medium strawberry
Nose: Blackberries, saddle leather
Body: Medium
Front: Sour berries
Middle: Soft tannins, wood
Back: Cigar wrapper
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This will be the first of several Bordeaux experiments in the coming months. I've had a couple of them that I liked, but they were all kind of old. Rumor has it the 2005 vintage is so awesome that even the cheapest bottles aren't bad. That would seem to be true in the case of this wine.

Still, it's not for the white zinfandel lover, and it's not for dinner -- it won't stand up to much intensity in food, but it's good with light antipasti. It's brighter fruit at the start than some Bordeaux I've had, even the Merlot-heavy ones of the Right Bank. But it's not super complex overall, or rich. I tried it decanted for an hour, and then the next day as well, and it seemed to peak early. It has that lovely sour berry flavor that I like in so many French wines, and like so many such wines, it goes well with almost any musical accompaniment.

Simi Landslide Cabernet

Simi Winery
Landslide Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Sonoma, California, USA2005
14.5%
$26.99 -- COSTCO, Austin, TX

Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Tobacco and cherry
Body: Full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Smoke, cedar
Back: Tannins, raspberry chocolate
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It's been awhile since I posted: it's just been too hot to drink wine. Sorry.

Ha ha! Just kidding. I've just been drinking cases of things I've already reviewed here, in the interests of saving money. But armed with a COSTCO membership, I'm back, with a bunch of things I've never tried before.

This one I'll probably buy more of, to lay down for awhile. It took about three hours for it to open into its full loveliness, and even then the tannins were pretty stout. But this is a lush, heavy Cabernet, with a really interesting flavor profile and clear structure. With grilled New York strip and grilled zucchini (with plenty of Tony's to spice it up) it was a great combination.

I was listening to Red Revelations, by Jace Everett, when I drank this one, and while I wouldn't go so far as to say the Simi was a revelation, it certainly seemed to make revelations happen more smoothly.

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Ferrari-Carano Cabernet

Ferrari-Carano Mountain Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Alexander Valley
Geyserville, California, USA
2005
14.5%
$30.00 -- Spec's Liquors, Austin, TX

Color: Opaque ruby
Nose: Ripe plums, a hint of creamed corn
Body: Full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Licorice, young mint
Back: Espresso, oak
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

A great wine with food, this Cabernet seems to be appearing on more and more restaurant lists. I'm pairing it with a little perhaps-over-the-hill salami, and it's catalytic. It failed, however, against the balsamic vinaigrette on my iceberg salad (it's ten thousand degrees outside, a cold dinner vibe)--but then, not many wines succeed with vinegar.

I've never had one of these that was super-tannic, so I'm not sure about the aging potential of the wine, or if people who love Napa cabs will be fond of it. Still, it's got a number of interesting flavors in a simple, but to me delightful, structure. I'd definitely pull it out if you're having folks over for some great food, but don't know what their palates are like.

Note: 1 Dec 2009, I tried the 2006; still lush and layered, plum and herb-dominated.  There's a bit of an earthy stank to this vintage, which is really luscious. I think I might like this more than the 2005.  Average prices for it are going up, but on sale and at bargain joints it can be had in the $29-$30 range still.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Nebraska Wines

NOW, IF THAT headline doesn't get your attention, you must live in Nebraska.

The format of this entry is going to be a little looser than usual, so my Google-sent visitors will have to click away. Or, alternatively, bear with me. No, just click away. Go! Get ye to another website, with the information you want right there at the top of the page in tabular format, or better yet in an embedded YouTube video!

I was in Nebraska recently, on a business trip. One of my favorite fellow geeks, Terry, was at the same meeting. We've all had that moment, saying to ourselves, "Thank god so-and-so is here; this meeting is going to be survivable, now." Terry can geek out about our work, but as I discovered a few years ago, what makes him particularly awesome is that he and I can geek out about wine.

He's an appreciator, rather than a palate-policeman. A drinker, really, who loves great beer and good food, even if he can't always describe what things taste like. And as a long-time New Yorker, he loves a good bargain. When in Nebraska, we drink at an Indian restaurant called The Oven, which has one of the best (and most reasonably priced) wine lists I've ever seen. The food is great, and there are some delightful, hard-to-anticipate pairings to be encountered there.

So I was surprised when Terry invited me to go tasting Nebraska wines after our last full day of meetings. I was contemplating a lovely Willamette Pinot on The Oven's outdoor patio. Instead, we headed to a Nebraska-centric gift shop to taste six Nebraska wines each.

This was an education: I had never had wine made from a single one of the varietals on the tasting list. Frontenac; DeChaunac; Chambourcin; Marechal Foch; LaCrosse; Vignoles; and many more. They're sweet, unsurprisingly, given Nebraska's average temperatures and palatal preferences, and they're young. But some of these wines had interesting layers, and folks who like sweet wines should find Nebraska wines offer an astonishing variety for those who have been stuck with White Zinfandel and Gewurtz for all these years.

My favorites (as confessedly a fan of drier wines): Among the whites, I enjoyed the James Arthur Nebraska White. James Arthur bottles an astonishing number of varietals, but this white blend, of Dry Vignoles, LaCrosse, and Seyval, was fruity-sweet, rather than candy-sweet, and had some haunting notes of mineral and earth. It was also comparatively inexpensive, between $10-20. Among the reds, I enjoyed the Cuthills Chancellor, which had a bit of a Pinot Noir-like structure, and a delightful balance of fruit and earth. It was shockingly $32 a bottle, but for special occasions, or Nebraska state business dinners, it's more than worth it.

For Nebraska residents, I highly recommend the Nebraska Wine Tour, which you can find more about at http://www.nebraskawines.com. A hint: be sure you get up to Pierce, off the beaten track though it may be, because there's some good wine terroir a-borning up there.

As always, my thanks to Terry for enlightenment. I'm looking forward to my next Nebraska wine adventure.

Martin Syrah

Martin Family Vineyards
Syrah
Estate
Dry Creek Valley
Healdsburg, California, USA2004
14.2%
$16.00 -- Chapel Hill, NC

Color: Opaque purple
Nose: Sour blackberries, with a delightful stank on 'em
Body: Full
Front: Tangy blackberry
Middle: Plum
Back: Roasted coffee beans, cinderblock tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This is a delightful wine and an incredible deal. I can't help but think that it's on the edge of its useful life, so drink it now! But the nose is simply enchanting, and the rest of it packs a punch across the dark fruity range.

I'm breaking the rules tonight, by not having any food to take this wine with, but it's been a hell of a week, so I cut myself loose. I'm listening to Jace Everett's record RED REVELATIONS, and this briary, out-of-control wine goes particularly well with his track "One of Them."

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Sattui Crow Ridge Zinfandel

V. Sattui Winery
Zinfandel
Crow Ridge Vineyard
Old Vine
Russian River Valley
St. Helena, California, USA2006
15%
$28.00 -- Sattui Winery, St. Helena, CA

Color: Medium garnet
Nose: Raspberry, fig, pine
Body: Medium
Front: Raspberry
Middle: Rosemary, black pepper
Back: Smoke, cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

V. Sattui wines are always on my mind. Admittedly, I'm not a big Zinfandel fan, but partly that's just because they seem to vary so much from bottle to bottle and even year to year that I feel I can't count on anything.

The Crow Ridge is a rich, juicy wine, good with any kind of food (though it's just salted, spicy almonds tonight). It provokes a little contemplation, though, unfolding through a few nice layers, and it's big enough to make you take notice.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Berthoud Syrah

Berthoud Vineyards & Winery
Syrah

Sonoma Valley
California, USA2003
13.8%
$28.00 -- Mayo Family, Glen Ellen, CA

Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Plum and mash
Body: Full
Front: Sour cherries
Middle: Dark roasted coffee, caramel
Back: Thyme, tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

It was a damn noisy late afternoon in the Mayo tasting room (they stay open until 6:30, well past most wineries) when I tried this wine, but I think I heard that it's the private label of that company's winemaker. This is some seriously French stuff; dark, earthy, and brooding.

This is not a wine for everyone. It was delicious with the roasted chicken and avocado of tonight's meal, but really, it's got a strong character. At about an hour of decanting it was at its most subtle and multilayered. There's not much more of it, honestly--they only made three barrels, to my math about 900 bottles--but it's a delight.

Robert Craig Affinity

Robert Craig Winery
Affinity

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot
Napa Valley
Angwin
, California, USA2006
14.5%
$55.00 -- Wildflower, Tucson, AZ

Color: Rich ruby
Nose: Boysenberry, licorice
Body: Full
Front: Cherry
Middle: Coffee
Back: Chocolate cream pie
Burns clean?: Yes, though I had weird dreams
Cap: Cork

Another Wildflower half-off deal. This one wasn't as memorable as the 2005, which I first tried at this same restaurant last year. It's mostly Cabernet (judging from the front label, which declares it a Cabernet Sauvignon) but it's billed as a blend (judging from the back label which heralds the varietals listed above.

Whatever it is, it's great with all kinds of food, from the duck with cherries and spinach I had to the rich Mahi Mahi extravaganza my mom ate most of next to me. I do think I have an "affinity" for this wine, but I think in all honesty I'd say that it doesn't quite extend to passion. But friendship is more than enough.

Chalk Hill Chardonnay

Chalk Hill Winery
Chardonnay

Russian River Valley
Sonoma
Healdsburg
, California, USA2006
14.8%
$26.00 -- Wildflower, Tucson, AZ

Color: Pale, milky gold
Nose: Pear, butter
Body: Full
Front: Apricot, lemon
Middle: Garlic butter
Back: Cedar, rosemary, truffle
Burns clean?: Yes, though I had weird dreams
Cap: Cork

I'm breakin' my own rule about reviewing wines served to me at restaurants. Wildflower's got a half-off special on bottles of wine on Tuesdays during the raging hot months of the summer, and this was way too good to pass up. I haven't had Chalk Hill in 10 years; when I was a youngster, my parents used to get it because it was a fantastic Chardonnay for around 20 bucks. Then it skyrocketed, along with a host of other Californiay Chardonnays, and they didn't buy it anymore.

It's a stunning wine. A long, long development on the palate, with clear structural shifts and an immaculate balance of acidic fruits up front, mellowing out to soft butteryness in the middle, and evolving into a woody, earthy finish. My father compares it to a Puligny-Montrachet, and I think that's right, though it's bigger, beefier, somehow. Still, it's subtle.

Wildflower has a world-class tuna tartare, and this was perfect accompaniment. But! We took the last few ounces of it home, and I had the last glass this evening while in my parents' pool. It was just as good with a hot afternoon swim as with raw fish.

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Ponzi Pinot Noir

Ponzi Vineyards
Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley
Oregon
, USA2006
14.2%
$35.99 -- Rum Runner, Tucson, AZ

Color: Medium ruby
Nose: Cherry, strawberry, something roasted
Body: Light to medium
Front: Cherry, spritz
Middle: Cedar, peppermint
Back: Cherry sours
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap

This is a light wine, with interesting fruit flavors and a nice nose. It's getting toasty outside, and this is perfect on a hot Arizona afternoon, before dinner. It helps put one in the right state of mind to watch the news.

I confess that this isn't the sort of Pinot that gives me supreme delight. But it's not Juicy Fruit: the hint of sourness and the earthy notes give it a dimensionality that isn't always there in Pinots (even, unfortunately, in this price range).

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Mayo Estate Laurel Hill Chardonnay

Mayo Family Winery
Chardonnay
Laurel Hill Vineyard
Sonoma ValleyGlen Ellen, California, USA2006
14.2%
$17.99 -- Spec's Liquors, Austin, Texas

Color: Very pale gold
Nose: Bread, key lime pie
Body: Medium to full
Front: Lime water, rosemary
Middle: Spicy apricot
Back: Balsa, cinnamon
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork

This wine develops fascinatingly as you drink it. It's got distinctive layers, with a thin but tasty opening leading to a spicy and then beefy middle, with acidic fruits and sweeter spices and woodiness on the way out. No new oak is used to make this wine, the label claims. The label contains a grammatical error, though, so I'm not sure how much to trust it. But for the price this is a good, interesting Chardonnay.

I'm just snacking with it today, on a hot Texas Sunday afternoon--some spicy salami and almonds. Hankering for a Dark and Stormy, I made my way to the liquor store that packs my favorite ginger beer and discovered, not at all to my surprise, that the liquor stores in Texas are closed on Sunday. Doubtless this is because hard liquor can't be sold on Sunday. My disappointment lasted 3/4 of a second, when I realized I had, with Promethean foresight, laid this bottle in the fridge last night. I like to think this is precisely what the legislature was trying to encourage with this excellent law.

I'm tired of music altogether, so I have no aural accompaniment to this other than the hum of the refrigerator and the roar of my collateral thoughts.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Domaine La Roquete Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Frederic et Daniel Brunier
Domaine La Roquete
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Grenache, Syrah, MourvedreChateauneuf-du-Pape, France2003
14.5%
$38.00 -- Vino100, Lakeway, Texas

Color: Medium brick red
Nose: Blackberries
Body: Medium
Front: Raspberry, tar
Middle: Seat leather, strawberry
Back: Basil, cedar
Burns clean?: Yes, delightfully
Cap: Cork

There's a lot going on in this wine. If you like your fruit grilled, or your tobacco run through the berry patch, or your peanut butter in your chocolate, even, this will probably make you happy. It was pretty much ready to drink after 15 minutes and just kept getting better over hours and hours. It's not overly tannic, but paired fabulously with Italian sausage (with cheese, caramelized onions, and yellow peppers) and with Shivaree on the stereo.