Rutherford Hill Winery
Merlot
Rutherford, California2004
14.2%
$21.99 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Medium-dark ruby
Nose: Olive, violets
Body: Medium to full
Front: Plum
Middle: Vanilla, dust
Back: Cherry, wood
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
It's interesting, but of course not revelatory of my character, that I have only reviewed one Merlot. Tonight that all changes. There will be 100 percent more Merlot reviewed here at Caveat Emptyer. THERE WILL BE MERLOT.
This is not Sideways. But I confess that what I like about this Merlot is that it's like a Cabernet--big, rich, multilayered, with the signature of Rutherford in its texture. My father introduced me to it at Daisy Mae's steak restaurant, in Tucson, Arizona, long ago, and we have had many a delightful bean-laden meal there with it.
I think it'll go with lots of food, like the paprika chicken and French onion soup on tonight's docket, and almost any kind of music short of Rage Against the Machine, which should always be listened to with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Byron Chardonnay
Byron Vineyards and Winery
Chardonnay
Santa Maria Valley
Santa Maria, California2005
14.5%
$24.88 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Medium gold
Nose: Apricot, pretzels, lime
Body: Full
Front: Melon, citrus
Middle: French bread, peach
Back: Cream, lemongrass
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
The nose on this wine was immediately striking, and delightful. This is a fruit basket, for sure; the ripeness is almost so powerful as to be salty. I like it! If you want something limey and steely, steer clear of this one; if you want a great opener with some stiff soft cheeses, it'll be awesome.
It'll be a bit of a showdown, I think, between this wine and the lentil and sweet Italian sausage stew that I'm making. I just preemptively tried it with dessert--blackberries--and the wine crushed the blackberry flavor out of existence, like, "Seriously, freshman, back to the bench with you." Damn.
Chardonnay
Santa Maria Valley
Santa Maria, California2005
14.5%
$24.88 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Medium gold
Nose: Apricot, pretzels, lime
Body: Full
Front: Melon, citrus
Middle: French bread, peach
Back: Cream, lemongrass
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
The nose on this wine was immediately striking, and delightful. This is a fruit basket, for sure; the ripeness is almost so powerful as to be salty. I like it! If you want something limey and steely, steer clear of this one; if you want a great opener with some stiff soft cheeses, it'll be awesome.
It'll be a bit of a showdown, I think, between this wine and the lentil and sweet Italian sausage stew that I'm making. I just preemptively tried it with dessert--blackberries--and the wine crushed the blackberry flavor out of existence, like, "Seriously, freshman, back to the bench with you." Damn.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
St. Clement Cabernet
St. Clement Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California2005
14.8%
$32.39 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX
Color: Near opaque red with purple tinge
Nose: Mexican chocolate, blackberries, thyme
Body: Full
Front: Dark cherry coffee
Middle: Tannins, blackberry
Back: Chocolate, smoky car seat leather
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork
Who is this strange man who licks car seats? Come on--you did it. You got in that leather-coated backseat when you were five, or maybe seven years old. Mom and dad's crappy-ass fabric seats, or the vinyl benches of grandpa's AMC were nothing compared to your aunt's Camels-infused hidebound capsules. You were tasting wine, but you didn't know it, child.
Now dark cherry coffee I've never had, I admit. I'm not sure I like it, so I'm going to wait another half hour before I taste this, since that flavor compression might just mean it needs a little untightening. In the meantime, I'll contemplate my bizarro dinner of roasted red pepper soup with goat cheese with steamed squash on the side. Possibly also an avocado and tomato salad with a little lemon and pepper on 'er.
Yes: put at least an hour, maybe longer, of air on it before drinking this one. It opens into a really delicious coffee-chocolate-small berry sort of thing. It's kind of French--no fruit bomb here.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
St. Helena, California2005
14.8%
$32.39 -- Twin Liquors, Austin, TX
Color: Near opaque red with purple tinge
Nose: Mexican chocolate, blackberries, thyme
Body: Full
Front: Dark cherry coffee
Middle: Tannins, blackberry
Back: Chocolate, smoky car seat leather
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork
Who is this strange man who licks car seats? Come on--you did it. You got in that leather-coated backseat when you were five, or maybe seven years old. Mom and dad's crappy-ass fabric seats, or the vinyl benches of grandpa's AMC were nothing compared to your aunt's Camels-infused hidebound capsules. You were tasting wine, but you didn't know it, child.
Now dark cherry coffee I've never had, I admit. I'm not sure I like it, so I'm going to wait another half hour before I taste this, since that flavor compression might just mean it needs a little untightening. In the meantime, I'll contemplate my bizarro dinner of roasted red pepper soup with goat cheese with steamed squash on the side. Possibly also an avocado and tomato salad with a little lemon and pepper on 'er.
Yes: put at least an hour, maybe longer, of air on it before drinking this one. It opens into a really delicious coffee-chocolate-small berry sort of thing. It's kind of French--no fruit bomb here.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Veramonte Chardonnay Reserva
Veramonte
Chardonnay
Reserva
Casablanca Valley
Chile2006
13.5%
$10.79 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Pale gold
Nose: Apricot, banana
Body: Full
Front: Peach, banana
Middle: Sour apple, a little tangerine?
Back: Beach ball, cream
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
This evening I'm getting over a cold and trying to focus on writing an important article that has nothing to do with wine. In the spirit of productive procrastination (and because with a cheap white wine I can have one glass, recap the bottle, and reinfuse caffeine to keep writing), I turn to Veramonte. It's the first Chilean wine I've reviewed, I note, but it will not be the last.
One of the reasons I picked this one up was that it's imported by Huneeus Vineyards, which makes one of my favorite wines, Faust. Indeed, Augustin Huneeus is listed on the bottle as the vintner, so my hope was that the connection is deep.
I like this wine; it's full and creamy but not super-oaked, well-balanced and structured. It pairs well also with Lays Potato Chips, which bring out the wood in the wine nicely. Once again, The Ditty Bops are playing, singing, "And we like it / Because we do..."
Chardonnay
Reserva
Casablanca Valley
Chile2006
13.5%
$10.79 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Pale gold
Nose: Apricot, banana
Body: Full
Front: Peach, banana
Middle: Sour apple, a little tangerine?
Back: Beach ball, cream
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
This evening I'm getting over a cold and trying to focus on writing an important article that has nothing to do with wine. In the spirit of productive procrastination (and because with a cheap white wine I can have one glass, recap the bottle, and reinfuse caffeine to keep writing), I turn to Veramonte. It's the first Chilean wine I've reviewed, I note, but it will not be the last.
One of the reasons I picked this one up was that it's imported by Huneeus Vineyards, which makes one of my favorite wines, Faust. Indeed, Augustin Huneeus is listed on the bottle as the vintner, so my hope was that the connection is deep.
I like this wine; it's full and creamy but not super-oaked, well-balanced and structured. It pairs well also with Lays Potato Chips, which bring out the wood in the wine nicely. Once again, The Ditty Bops are playing, singing, "And we like it / Because we do..."
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Trentadue Old Patch Red
Trentadue
Old Patch Red
Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Syrah
Sonoma County
Geyserville, California
2005
14.9%
$12.59 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Dark purpley-red
Nose: Blueberries, sour cherries
Body: Medium to full
Front: Candy cane, spice
Middle: Blueberries
Back: Graphite
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
I've been drinking OPR around here for awhile, but not talking about it. The 2003 was absolutely fantastic, and it's still a complete steal. When I'm in the mood for Paraduxx, but not in the financial position to engage it, this is what I get instead. It goes well with a range of foods, and I have a feeling that it's going to stack up perfectly to brisket and sautéed brussels sprouts.
Old Patch Red
Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Syrah
Sonoma County
Geyserville, California
2005
14.9%
$12.59 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Dark purpley-red
Nose: Blueberries, sour cherries
Body: Medium to full
Front: Candy cane, spice
Middle: Blueberries
Back: Graphite
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
I've been drinking OPR around here for awhile, but not talking about it. The 2003 was absolutely fantastic, and it's still a complete steal. When I'm in the mood for Paraduxx, but not in the financial position to engage it, this is what I get instead. It goes well with a range of foods, and I have a feeling that it's going to stack up perfectly to brisket and sautéed brussels sprouts.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Jean-Paul Brun Beaujolais Blanc
Jean-Paul Brun
Terres Dorées
Beaujolais Blanc
Chardonnay
Charnay, Beaujolais, France
2007
12%
$15.88 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Medium gold
Nose: Apricot, pear, a hint of some sweet, potent flower
Body: Medium
Front: Apricot
Middle: Smoky butter
Back: Pear
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Plastic cork
This is a delightful, simple, fruit-and-butter wine. It's not super layered, but it's got a great nose and a couple of really interesting flavors. It made me jump up and put on Cheri Knight's excellent and little-known record, The Northeast Kingdom. And it was super-tasty with hot sorpressata.
Terres Dorées
Beaujolais Blanc
Chardonnay
Charnay, Beaujolais, France
2007
12%
$15.88 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Medium gold
Nose: Apricot, pear, a hint of some sweet, potent flower
Body: Medium
Front: Apricot
Middle: Smoky butter
Back: Pear
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Plastic cork
This is a delightful, simple, fruit-and-butter wine. It's not super layered, but it's got a great nose and a couple of really interesting flavors. It made me jump up and put on Cheri Knight's excellent and little-known record, The Northeast Kingdom. And it was super-tasty with hot sorpressata.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Chateau Haut Bessac Bordeaux
Chateau Haut Bessac
Grand Vin de Bordeaux
Merlot, Cabernet
Bordeaux Superieur, France
2005
13%
$21.65 -- Vino 100, Lakeway, TX
Color: Rich ruby red
Nose: Licorice, plum, cornbread
Body: Medium
Front: Cassis, almost lemony tartness
Middle: Vanilla, caramel
Back: Cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This is a delightful wine; not an overpoweringly rich or complex Bordeaux, but a good one. Still, it's tight--the 2005s are going to last a long time, I think, and this one is no exception. Be patient with it and let it unfold if you drink it now. In a couple of years it'll probably be softer at the initial part of the palate and even more complex flavorwise overall. It should make folks who like wine happy--neophytes will probably be a little startled by it.
Instead of talking too much about this wine, I want briefly to address an interesting phenomenon which may or may not be new. In the airport last week, I stopped for a glass at Vino Volo, a new airport wine-tasting chain with good food. They've got a tasting guide for each wine, done into a simple cartesian diagram:
Vino 100's chain stores also have a guide like this, represented on a line rather than a grid. Vino 100's lacks, interestingly, the emotional descriptors like "brooding" or "bright." After a few minutes of pondering whether I liked Vino Volo's Fruit/Complexity scale more than Vino 100's Fruit/Body one, I realized that what was hanging me up was perhaps the whole graphic representation. Rather than thinking about why they chose Fruit-Complexity-Body instead of, say, texture (tannins make a huge difference to some people, for example), I decided to pull back the lens a little farther on the question. (For you Marxists out there, they're not owned by the same company.)
These systems are retail-oriented, and that's cool as far as it goes. Wine, though, is at least four-dimensional. It unfolds in time, which has lots of implications, from the evolution of a single bottle as it's open over an hour or three, to the choice of vintages (which sometimes exhibit common features more dominant than certain varietal differences), to the state of hunger a drinker is in, to the bizarre, subtle, but noticeable difference between drinking wine at one time of day versus another. The pleasure it gives is also affected by the social moment in which it's consumed.
This isn't to say that the peak features of the wine don't matter--and certainly it's not to say that a ludicrously happy social moment at exactly 5:47 p.m. on a warm, early spring day on a friend's balcony in Charleston, after precisely one hour and eight minutes of decanting, will redeem a bottle of Thunderbird. But it is to say that Thunderbird has its moments, and it's the goal of most retail systems to sell you something from inventory, not to make you happy. So I'm a big fan of getting free taste samples from a joint until you find something you like, then ordering a glass.
Grand Vin de Bordeaux
Merlot, Cabernet
Bordeaux Superieur, France
2005
13%
$21.65 -- Vino 100, Lakeway, TX
Color: Rich ruby red
Nose: Licorice, plum, cornbread
Body: Medium
Front: Cassis, almost lemony tartness
Middle: Vanilla, caramel
Back: Cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This is a delightful wine; not an overpoweringly rich or complex Bordeaux, but a good one. Still, it's tight--the 2005s are going to last a long time, I think, and this one is no exception. Be patient with it and let it unfold if you drink it now. In a couple of years it'll probably be softer at the initial part of the palate and even more complex flavorwise overall. It should make folks who like wine happy--neophytes will probably be a little startled by it.
Instead of talking too much about this wine, I want briefly to address an interesting phenomenon which may or may not be new. In the airport last week, I stopped for a glass at Vino Volo, a new airport wine-tasting chain with good food. They've got a tasting guide for each wine, done into a simple cartesian diagram:
Vino 100's chain stores also have a guide like this, represented on a line rather than a grid. Vino 100's lacks, interestingly, the emotional descriptors like "brooding" or "bright." After a few minutes of pondering whether I liked Vino Volo's Fruit/Complexity scale more than Vino 100's Fruit/Body one, I realized that what was hanging me up was perhaps the whole graphic representation. Rather than thinking about why they chose Fruit-Complexity-Body instead of, say, texture (tannins make a huge difference to some people, for example), I decided to pull back the lens a little farther on the question. (For you Marxists out there, they're not owned by the same company.)
These systems are retail-oriented, and that's cool as far as it goes. Wine, though, is at least four-dimensional. It unfolds in time, which has lots of implications, from the evolution of a single bottle as it's open over an hour or three, to the choice of vintages (which sometimes exhibit common features more dominant than certain varietal differences), to the state of hunger a drinker is in, to the bizarre, subtle, but noticeable difference between drinking wine at one time of day versus another. The pleasure it gives is also affected by the social moment in which it's consumed.
This isn't to say that the peak features of the wine don't matter--and certainly it's not to say that a ludicrously happy social moment at exactly 5:47 p.m. on a warm, early spring day on a friend's balcony in Charleston, after precisely one hour and eight minutes of decanting, will redeem a bottle of Thunderbird. But it is to say that Thunderbird has its moments, and it's the goal of most retail systems to sell you something from inventory, not to make you happy. So I'm a big fan of getting free taste samples from a joint until you find something you like, then ordering a glass.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Cellar No. 8 Cabernet
Asti Winery
Cellar No. 8
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa, California
2006
13.9%
$8.09 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Dark purpledy red
Nose: Blueberry cafe au lait
Body: Medium
Front: Cassis, a little spinach perhaps
Middle: Mexican chocolate, tannins
Back: Coffee, bark, a little heat
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
For those dropping in here for a quick read on this wine, I offer my specialty--a caveat: This wine seems to divide opinions in the wine-blogging world. Budget Vino is all about it (and the Merlot, too); but others addicted to both wine and writing will tell you it's average and possibly only barely worth nine bucks.
My advice is, wait six months, then drink it within six months of that. Sure, it's a little green, but it's interesting enough for dinner, and has some nice points. (If you drink it now, let it breathe a little, but not too much!) It's not particularly complex. But it's not uncomplex in a juicy-fruit, Jolly RancherTM, or strawberry smoothie way, either.
This opens onto a whole other issue, which is the question of the importance of "getting a good deal" to the taste of something (wine, dinner, whatever). Sommelier training, of course, involves at one level the elimination of such variables: the evaluation of a particular wine's ability to give pleasure to this or that human (with a particular set of tastes), in comparison to other available wines. At another, practically, it involves recognizing circumstantial variables in the assignation of a wine to a customer (food, temperature, mood, weather, economic climate, etc.).
Now, the prevalence of "Great Wine Value" blogs, to say nothing of my personal experience, suggests to me that there's a good-sized population of folks out there for whom value matters, particularly at the lower end of the price range. [Another caveat: there are more than three price ranges. I look at it socially--there's street wine (Thunderbird!); reception wine (Cellar No. 8); everyday wine (Marquis Phillips); superb wine (Faust); special occasion wine (Gaja, Nuit St. Georges); and collectors' wine (never had any, but generally things with "Chateau" on the label and decimal points in what seem like the wrong places on the pricetag).]
But even at the higher levels the idea of getting economic leverage, I think, shapes the taste experiences of many oenophiles. One of my friends almost cried when I told him I'd gotten the Andrew Will Ciel du Cheval for $34 a bottle; believe me, when he tastes it on his next visit he'll be in heaven.
So here we confront a complex issue in assessing wine. I'm going to go out on a limb and say: if you like a good deal, you're really going to like this wine.
Cellar No. 8
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa, California
2006
13.9%
$8.09 -- Grape Vine Market, Austin, TX
Color: Dark purpledy red
Nose: Blueberry cafe au lait
Body: Medium
Front: Cassis, a little spinach perhaps
Middle: Mexican chocolate, tannins
Back: Coffee, bark, a little heat
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
For those dropping in here for a quick read on this wine, I offer my specialty--a caveat: This wine seems to divide opinions in the wine-blogging world. Budget Vino is all about it (and the Merlot, too); but others addicted to both wine and writing will tell you it's average and possibly only barely worth nine bucks.
My advice is, wait six months, then drink it within six months of that. Sure, it's a little green, but it's interesting enough for dinner, and has some nice points. (If you drink it now, let it breathe a little, but not too much!) It's not particularly complex. But it's not uncomplex in a juicy-fruit, Jolly RancherTM, or strawberry smoothie way, either.
This opens onto a whole other issue, which is the question of the importance of "getting a good deal" to the taste of something (wine, dinner, whatever). Sommelier training, of course, involves at one level the elimination of such variables: the evaluation of a particular wine's ability to give pleasure to this or that human (with a particular set of tastes), in comparison to other available wines. At another, practically, it involves recognizing circumstantial variables in the assignation of a wine to a customer (food, temperature, mood, weather, economic climate, etc.).
Now, the prevalence of "Great Wine Value" blogs, to say nothing of my personal experience, suggests to me that there's a good-sized population of folks out there for whom value matters, particularly at the lower end of the price range. [Another caveat: there are more than three price ranges. I look at it socially--there's street wine (Thunderbird!); reception wine (Cellar No. 8); everyday wine (Marquis Phillips); superb wine (Faust); special occasion wine (Gaja, Nuit St. Georges); and collectors' wine (never had any, but generally things with "Chateau" on the label and decimal points in what seem like the wrong places on the pricetag).]
But even at the higher levels the idea of getting economic leverage, I think, shapes the taste experiences of many oenophiles. One of my friends almost cried when I told him I'd gotten the Andrew Will Ciel du Cheval for $34 a bottle; believe me, when he tastes it on his next visit he'll be in heaven.
So here we confront a complex issue in assessing wine. I'm going to go out on a limb and say: if you like a good deal, you're really going to like this wine.
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Razor's Edge Shiraz
Razor's Edge Wines
Shiraz
McLaren Vale
Adelaide, Australia
2006
14.5%
$11.69 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Deep red, purple tinge
Nose: Spicy blueberries and fish sauce
Body: Medium to full
Front: Blueberries
Middle: Mocha
Back: Tobacco, a little wood
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
Inspired by criticism from a reader of this blog, and by the excellent value represented by the Razor's Edge Shiraz-Grenache, I decided to try the company's straight-up Shiraz. "Straight Up Shiraz"--that's a pretty good label. I claim it! It's deliciously priapic.
At any rate, way better than "Razor's Edge," especially for something as peaceful as wine. I could launch into all kinds of poststructuralist qualifications--it's a straight razor on the label, so it's about shaving, ostensibly, potentially revealing, as in elegantly conveyed terroir, the "true face" of the soil--or historicist ones, claiming the back label's rationale for the name. Except that the back label's explanation is kind of trite and lame. So I say: change the name!
Still, what really matters is in the bottle, and about that I have few complaints. I think I prefer the blend to this, but it's up there with Luchador and the various Marquis Phillips wines in terms of good stuff at this price. I'm enjoying listening to Denitia Odigie's "Pioneer" as I drink it.
Shiraz
McLaren Vale
Adelaide, Australia
2006
14.5%
$11.69 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Deep red, purple tinge
Nose: Spicy blueberries and fish sauce
Body: Medium to full
Front: Blueberries
Middle: Mocha
Back: Tobacco, a little wood
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
Inspired by criticism from a reader of this blog, and by the excellent value represented by the Razor's Edge Shiraz-Grenache, I decided to try the company's straight-up Shiraz. "Straight Up Shiraz"--that's a pretty good label. I claim it! It's deliciously priapic.
At any rate, way better than "Razor's Edge," especially for something as peaceful as wine. I could launch into all kinds of poststructuralist qualifications--it's a straight razor on the label, so it's about shaving, ostensibly, potentially revealing, as in elegantly conveyed terroir, the "true face" of the soil--or historicist ones, claiming the back label's rationale for the name. Except that the back label's explanation is kind of trite and lame. So I say: change the name!
Still, what really matters is in the bottle, and about that I have few complaints. I think I prefer the blend to this, but it's up there with Luchador and the various Marquis Phillips wines in terms of good stuff at this price. I'm enjoying listening to Denitia Odigie's "Pioneer" as I drink it.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Razor's Edge Shiraz-Grenache
Razor's Edge Wines
Shiraz, Grenache
McLaren Vale
Adelaide, Australia
2006
14.5%
$11.88 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Deep red
Nose: Violets, pepper
Body: Medium
Front: Plums
Middle: Eucalyptus, brown sugar
Back: Violets, pepper, a little heat
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
With a little air, this wine opens into a lovely, floral, caramelly bottle of tastiness. Despite the step towards a Rhone blend implied in the blend, it's still very much an Australian experience: big fruit, richly tasty, straightforward in structure. So, so much better than the $12 I paid for it, and in these hard times (even though it's an import!) that counts for plenty.
I had it with Wilco and some baked chicken with chorizo, onion, tomato, and garlic, with a side of steamed squashes. It was good with the food, but better with the saltier stuff--the cheese was an aged goat cheese, for example, so quite salty, and killer with the wine.
Shiraz, Grenache
McLaren Vale
Adelaide, Australia
2006
14.5%
$11.88 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Deep red
Nose: Violets, pepper
Body: Medium
Front: Plums
Middle: Eucalyptus, brown sugar
Back: Violets, pepper, a little heat
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
With a little air, this wine opens into a lovely, floral, caramelly bottle of tastiness. Despite the step towards a Rhone blend implied in the blend, it's still very much an Australian experience: big fruit, richly tasty, straightforward in structure. So, so much better than the $12 I paid for it, and in these hard times (even though it's an import!) that counts for plenty.
I had it with Wilco and some baked chicken with chorizo, onion, tomato, and garlic, with a side of steamed squashes. It was good with the food, but better with the saltier stuff--the cheese was an aged goat cheese, for example, so quite salty, and killer with the wine.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Cenay Rodgers Vineyard Pinot Noir
Rowland Cellars USA
Cenay
Rodgers Vineyard
Pinot Noir
Napa Valley
American Canyon, California
2006
13.5%
$29.00 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Light to medium red
Nose: Strawberry, cherry, peppermint
Body: Light
Front: Cassis
Middle: Vanilla, spice
Back: Cedar, a little heat
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork
I think I'm just too picky about Pinot. After having the Amour Fou, perhaps, I can't go back. This isn't bad, by any means, but I'm not sure it's worth the price. Two things: it was better after being open for an hour or more, and it was better with chicken curry and cream of broccoli soup. The aniseed, in particular, brought out nice things in the wine. If you like a bright style in this grape, with plenty of fruit and not overwhelming complexity, you'll dig it.
Looking back at the last few weeks, I can't help but notice a certain negative tone to things around this blog. Is it the economy, making me demand more for my crappy dollar? Is it that I'm getting older, and so my tastes are getting more complex? Is it that the holidays make me overly experimental? Or is it that Pinot Noir is hard to make?
Cenay
Rodgers Vineyard
Pinot Noir
Napa Valley
American Canyon, California
2006
13.5%
$29.00 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Light to medium red
Nose: Strawberry, cherry, peppermint
Body: Light
Front: Cassis
Middle: Vanilla, spice
Back: Cedar, a little heat
Burns clean?:
Cap: Cork
I think I'm just too picky about Pinot. After having the Amour Fou, perhaps, I can't go back. This isn't bad, by any means, but I'm not sure it's worth the price. Two things: it was better after being open for an hour or more, and it was better with chicken curry and cream of broccoli soup. The aniseed, in particular, brought out nice things in the wine. If you like a bright style in this grape, with plenty of fruit and not overwhelming complexity, you'll dig it.
Looking back at the last few weeks, I can't help but notice a certain negative tone to things around this blog. Is it the economy, making me demand more for my crappy dollar? Is it that I'm getting older, and so my tastes are getting more complex? Is it that the holidays make me overly experimental? Or is it that Pinot Noir is hard to make?
Sunday, January 4, 2009
The Big Red Monster
Bennett Family Vineyards
The Big Red Monster
Syrah, Zinfandel?
Napa Valley
Rutherford, California
NV
14.6%
$12.00 -- Vino 100, Lakeway, TX
Color: Deep red with purple tinge
Nose: Plums, a little heat
Body: Full
Front: Cassis
Middle: Vanilla Cherry Cola
Back: Coffee, forest floor
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Fake cork
Who doesn't like a melodramatic wine? Or at least, a melodramatic label? This wine's a peck more austere than it makes itself out to be--but then, it turns out that melodrama is more complex than we used to think, too. This wine's damn fine for the money. Just back from a long trip, with pizza on the table, it was the perfect move.
This is a negociant wine, made with surplus or outcast grapes from different places. I can't quite tell what's in it other than Syrah (spicy as all get out, but intense) and Zinfandel (cherry-raspberry stuff but nothing tannic). The effect is nice; it's a bit like a second-rank Paraduxx. That's praise, 'cause Paraduxx is usually fantastique!
The Big Red Monster
Syrah, Zinfandel?
Napa Valley
Rutherford, California
NV
14.6%
$12.00 -- Vino 100, Lakeway, TX
Color: Deep red with purple tinge
Nose: Plums, a little heat
Body: Full
Front: Cassis
Middle: Vanilla Cherry Cola
Back: Coffee, forest floor
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Fake cork
Who doesn't like a melodramatic wine? Or at least, a melodramatic label? This wine's a peck more austere than it makes itself out to be--but then, it turns out that melodrama is more complex than we used to think, too. This wine's damn fine for the money. Just back from a long trip, with pizza on the table, it was the perfect move.
This is a negociant wine, made with surplus or outcast grapes from different places. I can't quite tell what's in it other than Syrah (spicy as all get out, but intense) and Zinfandel (cherry-raspberry stuff but nothing tannic). The effect is nice; it's a bit like a second-rank Paraduxx. That's praise, 'cause Paraduxx is usually fantastique!
Friday, January 2, 2009
BV Napa Cabernet
Beaulieu Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Rutherford, California
2005
14.3%
$18.99 -- Safeway, Tucson, AZ
Color: Deep purple
Nose: Plums, licorice, a little heat
Body: Full
Front: Raspberry
Middle: Creamy chocolate, licorice
Back: Plum rinds, dusty tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
A month or so ago, in an unblogged wine-drinking incident, I shared a bottle of BV's Rutherford Cabernet with some music business friends. It was a big hit, and went perfectly with the steakhouse fare we were putting away in downtown Austin. This, this Napa one, is not as good, I fear.
Admittedly, I just came back from a brief trip to San Francisco, so the bar has been left kind of high. But there are lots of little things about this one that make me prefer, say, a Hahn Cabernet or the delightful (and also undocumented) Babcock that I had last night. The nose isn't terribly engaging. The color is undelightful for a cab. I'm a fan of chocolate and licorice individually, but they're not super piled on top of each other.
But enough, Mr. Grinch! Many people will like this wine, which is firm and stout like Santa Claus, even if it does come in a bit of a purple suit at the moment.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Rutherford, California
2005
14.3%
$18.99 -- Safeway, Tucson, AZ
Color: Deep purple
Nose: Plums, licorice, a little heat
Body: Full
Front: Raspberry
Middle: Creamy chocolate, licorice
Back: Plum rinds, dusty tannins
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
A month or so ago, in an unblogged wine-drinking incident, I shared a bottle of BV's Rutherford Cabernet with some music business friends. It was a big hit, and went perfectly with the steakhouse fare we were putting away in downtown Austin. This, this Napa one, is not as good, I fear.
Admittedly, I just came back from a brief trip to San Francisco, so the bar has been left kind of high. But there are lots of little things about this one that make me prefer, say, a Hahn Cabernet or the delightful (and also undocumented) Babcock that I had last night. The nose isn't terribly engaging. The color is undelightful for a cab. I'm a fan of chocolate and licorice individually, but they're not super piled on top of each other.
But enough, Mr. Grinch! Many people will like this wine, which is firm and stout like Santa Claus, even if it does come in a bit of a purple suit at the moment.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet
Robert Mondavi Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Napa, California
2005
15%
$26.00 -- Rum Runner, Tucson, AZ
Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Panko-crusted shrimp with a side of spinach in a creamy balsamic vinaigrette
Body: Full
Front: Cherry cream, mint
Middle: Cedar vanilla, pepper
Back: Smoke, pencils, chocolate, gravel
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
Maybe it's because it's Christmas Eve, maybe it's because there's a roast in the oven smelling like heaven at 375 degrees, maybe it's because the Kingston Trio are singing "Children Go Where I Send Thee" in big, fat, analog sound. But this wine is astounding, right out of the bottle. It's all that I imagine in a Napa wine. Many, many things are going on in it, and it evolves beautifully as it opens.
This may be in part because a lot of players are involved in making this taste like it does. I have to say that, though I can't say how it'll age, this is a bargain. It's up there with bottles I've reviewed here at $50 or more. If I survive Christmas dinner and leftovers, I'll be getting more of this.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Napa, California
2005
15%
$26.00 -- Rum Runner, Tucson, AZ
Color: Deep ruby
Nose: Panko-crusted shrimp with a side of spinach in a creamy balsamic vinaigrette
Body: Full
Front: Cherry cream, mint
Middle: Cedar vanilla, pepper
Back: Smoke, pencils, chocolate, gravel
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
Maybe it's because it's Christmas Eve, maybe it's because there's a roast in the oven smelling like heaven at 375 degrees, maybe it's because the Kingston Trio are singing "Children Go Where I Send Thee" in big, fat, analog sound. But this wine is astounding, right out of the bottle. It's all that I imagine in a Napa wine. Many, many things are going on in it, and it evolves beautifully as it opens.
This may be in part because a lot of players are involved in making this taste like it does. I have to say that, though I can't say how it'll age, this is a bargain. It's up there with bottles I've reviewed here at $50 or more. If I survive Christmas dinner and leftovers, I'll be getting more of this.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
V. Sattui Napa Valley Cabernet
V. Sattui Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
2005
14.5%
$32.00 -- V. Sattui Winery, St. Helena, CA
Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Blueberries, chocolate
Body: Full
Front: Cassis
Middle: Blueberry mocha
Back: Tannins, cream
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This is unadulteratedly lovely wine, like so much of what Sattui makes. It's rich and dominating, good with food (stands up to tonight's mild curry, even). It has tannins like playground bullies, but some of us like a good tannin beating every now and then.
This wine goes well with Swamp Rat's song "Stella II," with its combination--contrast?--of smooth and loungey with startlingly powerful and suggestive.
Note: 28 November 2009. The 2006 is delightful, too (price point and alcohol about the same as the '05): tannins are softer, but it has the same blueberry-driven nose, with a nice meaty body that's got some cherry and coffee in it.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
2005
14.5%
$32.00 -- V. Sattui Winery, St. Helena, CA
Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Blueberries, chocolate
Body: Full
Front: Cassis
Middle: Blueberry mocha
Back: Tannins, cream
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This is unadulteratedly lovely wine, like so much of what Sattui makes. It's rich and dominating, good with food (stands up to tonight's mild curry, even). It has tannins like playground bullies, but some of us like a good tannin beating every now and then.
This wine goes well with Swamp Rat's song "Stella II," with its combination--contrast?--of smooth and loungey with startlingly powerful and suggestive.
Note: 28 November 2009. The 2006 is delightful, too (price point and alcohol about the same as the '05): tannins are softer, but it has the same blueberry-driven nose, with a nice meaty body that's got some cherry and coffee in it.
Monday, December 22, 2008
Henry's Drive Dead Letter Office
Henry's Drive Vignerons
Dead Letter Office
Shiraz
McLaren Vale & Padthaway, Australia
2005
15%
$26.99 -- Rum Runner, Tucson, AZ
Color: Dark red
Nose: Cherry vanilla cola
Body: Medium to full
Front: Tart cherries, blueberry
Middle: Mocha pencils
Back: Mint-wrapper cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
Henry's Drive makes some good wine. But of course, you never know! If it were baseball, this wine would bat fourth: not a lot of complexity, but plenty of power, likely to hit home runs with some drinkers and strike out with others. Drink it with friends, for two reasons (beyond the usual sociability): first, to watch the reactions, and second, because it has enough alcohol to put you in the hospital if you do it alone.
Now the perfect match, musically, for this wine, is Jace Everett's song "Bad Things." Given that Mr. Everett's tune is the theme song for the HBO vampire series True Blood, the color of this wine seems about right...
Dead Letter Office
Shiraz
McLaren Vale & Padthaway, Australia
2005
15%
$26.99 -- Rum Runner, Tucson, AZ
Color: Dark red
Nose: Cherry vanilla cola
Body: Medium to full
Front: Tart cherries, blueberry
Middle: Mocha pencils
Back: Mint-wrapper cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
Henry's Drive makes some good wine. But of course, you never know! If it were baseball, this wine would bat fourth: not a lot of complexity, but plenty of power, likely to hit home runs with some drinkers and strike out with others. Drink it with friends, for two reasons (beyond the usual sociability): first, to watch the reactions, and second, because it has enough alcohol to put you in the hospital if you do it alone.
Now the perfect match, musically, for this wine, is Jace Everett's song "Bad Things." Given that Mr. Everett's tune is the theme song for the HBO vampire series True Blood, the color of this wine seems about right...
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Jezebel Pinot Noir
Jezebel (Daedalus Cellars)
Pinot Noir
Dundee, Oregon
2007
13%
$19.99 -- Rum Runner, Tucson, AZ
Color: Light red
Nose: Raspberry mutton
Body: Light
Front: Cinnamon strangleberry
Middle: Buttery raspberry
Back: Peppermint
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
There's not a ton of complexity in this wine, but here's the thing: when Pinot is uncomplex, it's usually grape juice. This one is interestingly uncomplex. If you can figure out what that means, perhaps you can also explain to me what "strangleberry" is.
I spent a delightful midnight hour or two with my friend Frank drinking a bottle of Pinot by the parent label for this wine, Daedalus, while chipping golf balls onto an unlit green under a wide, brilliant northern Michigan sky. So I figured the Jezebel would be a good bet as a cheaper version, and lo! it was. Light foods, rich music, and this will shine.
Pinot Noir
Dundee, Oregon
2007
13%
$19.99 -- Rum Runner, Tucson, AZ
Color: Light red
Nose: Raspberry mutton
Body: Light
Front: Cinnamon strangleberry
Middle: Buttery raspberry
Back: Peppermint
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
There's not a ton of complexity in this wine, but here's the thing: when Pinot is uncomplex, it's usually grape juice. This one is interestingly uncomplex. If you can figure out what that means, perhaps you can also explain to me what "strangleberry" is.
I spent a delightful midnight hour or two with my friend Frank drinking a bottle of Pinot by the parent label for this wine, Daedalus, while chipping golf balls onto an unlit green under a wide, brilliant northern Michigan sky. So I figured the Jezebel would be a good bet as a cheaper version, and lo! it was. Light foods, rich music, and this will shine.
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Water Wheel Memsie
Water Wheel Vineyards
Memsie
Shiraz, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon
Bendigo, Australia
2005
14.8%
$9.88 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Cassis, mint
Body: Medium
Front: Eucalyptus
Middle: Raspberry, chocolate
Back: Cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
I'm a bit astounded that I got this bottle for this price. Perhaps no one knows what is inside it? It's not the most body-full Shiraz, nor the longest on the palate. But it's a great tasting wine, with super-interesting flavors. The nose is strongly fruity and minty, but the palate opens up rapidly into a range of dark flavors, not all of which I've managed to capture above.
For those of you less interested in subtle flavors and more in effects, please note that this wine is powerfully strong, but does not taste that way. I'll write you letters in jail.
Memsie
Shiraz, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon
Bendigo, Australia
2005
14.8%
$9.88 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Deep garnet
Nose: Cassis, mint
Body: Medium
Front: Eucalyptus
Middle: Raspberry, chocolate
Back: Cedar
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
I'm a bit astounded that I got this bottle for this price. Perhaps no one knows what is inside it? It's not the most body-full Shiraz, nor the longest on the palate. But it's a great tasting wine, with super-interesting flavors. The nose is strongly fruity and minty, but the palate opens up rapidly into a range of dark flavors, not all of which I've managed to capture above.
For those of you less interested in subtle flavors and more in effects, please note that this wine is powerfully strong, but does not taste that way. I'll write you letters in jail.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Champy Bourgogne Signature
Maison Champy
Bourgogne Signature
Chardonnay
Bourgogne, Beaune, France
2006
13%
$19.99 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Medium gold
Nose: Pineapple, butter, clove
Body: Medium
Front: Melon
Middle: Lime, butter
Back: Wood
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This wine has a lovely nose. It's well-balanced and nicely structured. Perhaps it's just me, but it seems a bit too...subtle. I swirled, I let it warm up a bit, I drank deep, and I chewed. It's really lovely, and good with food (shamelessly, pizza, ordered online, no less), but it's not the life-changing experience of Chasseur or even the good old-fashioned fun of Hog Wilde.
This white wine experiment is making me think. I really think that I need to try whites in the summertime, unless they're brooding chardonnays of repute, because they just don't seem to inspire associative storytelling in me during the winter.
Just an excuse, to convince myself it's responsible to slip back into the Cabernet or Shiraz stream as the holidays approach? That is entirely possible. But I feel that we all will benefit from at least trying this approach.
Bourgogne Signature
Chardonnay
Bourgogne, Beaune, France
2006
13%
$19.99 -- Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Medium gold
Nose: Pineapple, butter, clove
Body: Medium
Front: Melon
Middle: Lime, butter
Back: Wood
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
This wine has a lovely nose. It's well-balanced and nicely structured. Perhaps it's just me, but it seems a bit too...subtle. I swirled, I let it warm up a bit, I drank deep, and I chewed. It's really lovely, and good with food (shamelessly, pizza, ordered online, no less), but it's not the life-changing experience of Chasseur or even the good old-fashioned fun of Hog Wilde.
This white wine experiment is making me think. I really think that I need to try whites in the summertime, unless they're brooding chardonnays of repute, because they just don't seem to inspire associative storytelling in me during the winter.
Just an excuse, to convince myself it's responsible to slip back into the Cabernet or Shiraz stream as the holidays approach? That is entirely possible. But I feel that we all will benefit from at least trying this approach.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Bommarito Cabernet
Bommarito Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa ValleySt. Helena, CA2005
14.2%
$14.95 at Spec's, Austin, TX
Color: Dark purpley-red
Nose: Sour fruit, chocolate
Body: Medium to full
Front: Mochaberries
Middle: Black pepper, vanilla
Back: Oak, a little mint
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
Of course, Virginia, there must be such things as "mochaberries"! Especially at this magical time of year. This is an interesting wine--supposedly, it's the second label for Whitehall Lane. After decanting for an hour, it got pretty robust and rich.
Things don't quite develop into stories, in this wine--it's suggestive, creepy--like Tom Waits's "What's He Building in There?" Maybe the evasiveness on the label about the relationship to Whitehall Lane is part of it...but it might be the flavors. Still, it's pretty good at this price if you want a staunch cab to pair with something rich.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa ValleySt. Helena, CA2005
14.2%
$14.95 at Spec's, Austin, TX
Color: Dark purpley-red
Nose: Sour fruit, chocolate
Body: Medium to full
Front: Mochaberries
Middle: Black pepper, vanilla
Back: Oak, a little mint
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
Of course, Virginia, there must be such things as "mochaberries"! Especially at this magical time of year. This is an interesting wine--supposedly, it's the second label for Whitehall Lane. After decanting for an hour, it got pretty robust and rich.
Things don't quite develop into stories, in this wine--it's suggestive, creepy--like Tom Waits's "What's He Building in There?" Maybe the evasiveness on the label about the relationship to Whitehall Lane is part of it...but it might be the flavors. Still, it's pretty good at this price if you want a staunch cab to pair with something rich.
Monday, December 15, 2008
Ponzi Pinot Gris
Ponzi Vineyards
Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Beaverton, OR2007
13.3%
$17.00 at Vino 100, Lakeway, TX
Color: Very pale straw
Nose: Grapefruit, melon
Body: Medium
Front: Sparkly caperberries
Middle: Lime cupcake
Back: Lemon butter, and way out at the end, pear
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
Attentive readers will notice that I'm drinking more whites. This is because the equal opportunity drinker in me is embarrassed by my own tag stats, over there to the right.
My stat counter for this blog also tells me that if I drink more things that they sell at Kroger, HEB, Osco, or Super Target, I will get more hits. But I don't know that I want to do that. Many of those wines taste almost exactly the same as each other. And (particularly for my male readers) life is short.
But I have had Ponzi Pinot Noir before, so I figured dropping down a shade to the Pinot Gris wouldn't hurt me much. And I don't seem to get to Oregon on the gastrography very often, so I'm paying some dues.
You may not know what "sparkly caperberries" or "lime cupcake" are, and I don't either, but that's associative tasting for you. If nothing else, it can serve as a counterexample to all you prospective sommeliers out there. Suffice it to say that I'll buy this wine again. It's particularly delightful with the Ditty Bops playing in the background and a bit of hot sorpressata on my plate.
Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley
Beaverton, OR2007
13.3%
$17.00 at Vino 100, Lakeway, TX
Color: Very pale straw
Nose: Grapefruit, melon
Body: Medium
Front: Sparkly caperberries
Middle: Lime cupcake
Back: Lemon butter, and way out at the end, pear
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Screwcap
Attentive readers will notice that I'm drinking more whites. This is because the equal opportunity drinker in me is embarrassed by my own tag stats, over there to the right.
My stat counter for this blog also tells me that if I drink more things that they sell at Kroger, HEB, Osco, or Super Target, I will get more hits. But I don't know that I want to do that. Many of those wines taste almost exactly the same as each other. And (particularly for my male readers) life is short.
But I have had Ponzi Pinot Noir before, so I figured dropping down a shade to the Pinot Gris wouldn't hurt me much. And I don't seem to get to Oregon on the gastrography very often, so I'm paying some dues.
You may not know what "sparkly caperberries" or "lime cupcake" are, and I don't either, but that's associative tasting for you. If nothing else, it can serve as a counterexample to all you prospective sommeliers out there. Suffice it to say that I'll buy this wine again. It's particularly delightful with the Ditty Bops playing in the background and a bit of hot sorpressata on my plate.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Summers Cabernet Sauvignon
Summers Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon
Adrianna's Cuvee
Napa Valley
Calistoga, CA2005
14.1%
$23.99 at Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Dark red with purple tinge
Nose: Raspberries, cinnamon, spice
Body: Medium
Front: Cherries
Middle: Licorice or peppermint
Back: Ginger, a hint of caramel on the way out
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
While it's not quite to my taste, as not being sufficiently bodiful for a Cabernet, this would be great for folks who like their wine layered but not heavy. I decanted it for an hour, and then had it with a little aged goat cheese, and it couldn't really stand up to the cheese. For me, that's a problem, because if Asmodeus has an ethnicity, it could only be described as "cheese-eater."
There are interesting flavors in this bottle, delivered in quick but interesting succession before a relatively rapid flavor exit. It seems a little odd to me to recommend this as a "good Cabernet for a hot summer day" but it's a strange world we all live in here.
A good song pairing for this one would be Jet's "Are You Gonna Be My Girl." I'll let the cultural critics out there speculate about the metaphorical and material dimensions of this sister-arts harmony.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Adrianna's Cuvee
Napa Valley
Calistoga, CA2005
14.1%
$23.99 at Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Dark red with purple tinge
Nose: Raspberries, cinnamon, spice
Body: Medium
Front: Cherries
Middle: Licorice or peppermint
Back: Ginger, a hint of caramel on the way out
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
While it's not quite to my taste, as not being sufficiently bodiful for a Cabernet, this would be great for folks who like their wine layered but not heavy. I decanted it for an hour, and then had it with a little aged goat cheese, and it couldn't really stand up to the cheese. For me, that's a problem, because if Asmodeus has an ethnicity, it could only be described as "cheese-eater."
There are interesting flavors in this bottle, delivered in quick but interesting succession before a relatively rapid flavor exit. It seems a little odd to me to recommend this as a "good Cabernet for a hot summer day" but it's a strange world we all live in here.
A good song pairing for this one would be Jet's "Are You Gonna Be My Girl." I'll let the cultural critics out there speculate about the metaphorical and material dimensions of this sister-arts harmony.
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Pazo Serantellos Albariño
Pazo Serantellos
Albariño
Rias Baixas
Galicia, Spain
2007
12.5%
$8.99 at Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Light gold
Nose: Honey, banana
Body: Medium
Front: Peach
Middle: Dill, honeysuckle butter
Back: Lime, a tiny bit of steel-belted radial
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
Damn fine for a nine-dollar wine. It's a chewy one, though; a substantial body for such light and fruity flavors. This contributed also to a delightful leek-and-chicken concoction from the old standard 1080 Spanish cookbook.
I've lately fallen in love with the new record from a little-known trio called Swamp Rat. It might be because I can pair a different wine with almost every song. That, I suppose, would deductively make Swamp Rat's genre "eclectic." In the case of this wine, its perfect sonic accompaniment is the tune "Stella I."
Albariño
Rias Baixas
Galicia, Spain
2007
12.5%
$8.99 at Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Light gold
Nose: Honey, banana
Body: Medium
Front: Peach
Middle: Dill, honeysuckle butter
Back: Lime, a tiny bit of steel-belted radial
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
Damn fine for a nine-dollar wine. It's a chewy one, though; a substantial body for such light and fruity flavors. This contributed also to a delightful leek-and-chicken concoction from the old standard 1080 Spanish cookbook.
I've lately fallen in love with the new record from a little-known trio called Swamp Rat. It might be because I can pair a different wine with almost every song. That, I suppose, would deductively make Swamp Rat's genre "eclectic." In the case of this wine, its perfect sonic accompaniment is the tune "Stella I."
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Luchador Shiraz
R Wines
Luchador
Shiraz
Barossa Valley
Eastwood, Australia
2006
15.5%
$13.88 at Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Charred lamb, blueberries
Body: Full
Front: Creamy blueberries
Middle: Gravelly chocolate
Back: Maple syrup, sawdust
Burns clean?:
Cap: Screwcap
Another Grateful Palate import, and another stellar deal. The nose on this one is delovely; complex and strange. They bill this as a non-wine-expert's wine, and without question you'll like it if you want a wine that'll please a wide range of people. Equally true, it would seem odd to bring a wine with this label--an homage to the Mexican wrestler Malo--to a dinner party. But honestly, it'll make anybody happy who likes a good Shiraz: it's layered, good with food, and so strong that one glass will make the truth begin to flow like money around the mat at a wrestling match.
Tough, too, is Tom Waits's "Filipino Box Spring Hog," which is a perfect pairing with this wine. Just note that this sucker is 15.5%, so don't try to drink even one glass of it within the space of that song...
NB: I decanted 1/2 the bottle and put the cap back on almost immediately. 24 hours later, what was in the bottle tasted like caramel and chocolate. No fruit, no spice: dessert. Really, really good dessert.
Luchador
Shiraz
Barossa Valley
Eastwood, Australia
2006
15.5%
$13.88 at Whole Foods, Austin, TX
Color: Dark ruby
Nose: Charred lamb, blueberries
Body: Full
Front: Creamy blueberries
Middle: Gravelly chocolate
Back: Maple syrup, sawdust
Burns clean?:
Cap: Screwcap
Another Grateful Palate import, and another stellar deal. The nose on this one is delovely; complex and strange. They bill this as a non-wine-expert's wine, and without question you'll like it if you want a wine that'll please a wide range of people. Equally true, it would seem odd to bring a wine with this label--an homage to the Mexican wrestler Malo--to a dinner party. But honestly, it'll make anybody happy who likes a good Shiraz: it's layered, good with food, and so strong that one glass will make the truth begin to flow like money around the mat at a wrestling match.
Tough, too, is Tom Waits's "Filipino Box Spring Hog," which is a perfect pairing with this wine. Just note that this sucker is 15.5%, so don't try to drink even one glass of it within the space of that song...
NB: I decanted 1/2 the bottle and put the cap back on almost immediately. 24 hours later, what was in the bottle tasted like caramel and chocolate. No fruit, no spice: dessert. Really, really good dessert.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Anderson's Conn Valley Prologue
Conn Valley Vineyards
Prologue
Cabernet Sauvignon
St. Helena, CA
2006
14.5%
$25.00 at Vino 100, Lake Travis, TX
Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Blueberries, Slim JimsTM, Mountain Violets
Body: Full
Front: Cherry, cocoa
Middle: Vanilla, cedar
Back: Graham cracker, pine
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
It's not easy to find this wine, but it's worth it. It needs air; only after about an hour does it really start to show, so be patient. You will end up drinking a wine worth three times the price. It's subtle, rich, and fabulous with food (a mildly spicy sausage Italian sort of thing, for example). It's art without the artsy. (It doesn't even appear on the winery's website, that's how laid-back this bottle is. I think perhaps the '05 was the first release of this line?)
At long last, I found this wine at Vino 100 in Lake Travis, outside of Austin. This is a stylin' little wine shop on RTE 620--all bottles under $25, with an emphasis on serious values like Conn Valley's Prologue. Owner Gloria Parker offers tastings in their cozy space, which is like the raw-wood-and-leather-living-room-I'll-never-be-able-to-afford. Good taste both in and around the bottle, together with good conversation, makes a great store.
I'm somewhat ashamed to admit that I'm listening to Duffy as I drink this wine, but honestly, it goes perfectly with her song "Syrup & Honey."
Note, 11-29-2010: A terrible turn of events...the 2008 Prologue is a North Coast wine, not a Napa wine, and it's so oaky that I can't really tell what is going on in it. Most unfortunate. Let us hope this is only a temporary strategy.
Prologue
Cabernet Sauvignon
St. Helena, CA
2006
14.5%
$25.00 at Vino 100, Lake Travis, TX
Color: Dark garnet
Nose: Blueberries, Slim JimsTM, Mountain Violets
Body: Full
Front: Cherry, cocoa
Middle: Vanilla, cedar
Back: Graham cracker, pine
Burns clean?: Yes
Cap: Cork
It's not easy to find this wine, but it's worth it. It needs air; only after about an hour does it really start to show, so be patient. You will end up drinking a wine worth three times the price. It's subtle, rich, and fabulous with food (a mildly spicy sausage Italian sort of thing, for example). It's art without the artsy. (It doesn't even appear on the winery's website, that's how laid-back this bottle is. I think perhaps the '05 was the first release of this line?)
At long last, I found this wine at Vino 100 in Lake Travis, outside of Austin. This is a stylin' little wine shop on RTE 620--all bottles under $25, with an emphasis on serious values like Conn Valley's Prologue. Owner Gloria Parker offers tastings in their cozy space, which is like the raw-wood-and-leather-living-room-I'll-never-be-able-to-afford. Good taste both in and around the bottle, together with good conversation, makes a great store.
I'm somewhat ashamed to admit that I'm listening to Duffy as I drink this wine, but honestly, it goes perfectly with her song "Syrup & Honey."
Note, 11-29-2010: A terrible turn of events...the 2008 Prologue is a North Coast wine, not a Napa wine, and it's so oaky that I can't really tell what is going on in it. Most unfortunate. Let us hope this is only a temporary strategy.
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